Suppose You Have $5000 With Which To Build A Wardrobe

[Physher007]

I have finally moved into my first corporate job and need to build a professional wardrobe. I would love to buy a bespoke suit but I don't want to sink the lion's share in one suit.

At the moment I have a pair of black Cole Haan dress boots that I generally wear with suits but I would like a pair of brown. I have 4 suits but nothing that cost me more than $600 as well as a dozen dress shirts that fit in a similar budget ($60-$100 per)

Up to this point I have worked in more casual environments and I consider myself to rather fashionable - I am considering a double breasted as they are coming back into fashion, but I am afraid I am too broad (Im a 42 suit with a 12 inch drop) With my drop its very difficult for me to find proper dress shirts as well (I have to buy shirts with a larger neck size ti fit my shoulders but they billow at the waist, so recommendations on 'athletic' cuts would be greatly appreciated)

I def want a gray suit as well

....so, what direction would you go? Should I go ahead and invest in one killer suit and some bespoke shoes, or get a couple higher-end and build a more versatile wardrobe?

I'd love to get your feedback and I am good on watches for the moment (though I am seriously considering a 212 in the near future)

[subbiesrock]

You need staples. By that, you need some shirts that actually fit you, some nice ties, a few decent suits, and a couple of pairs of shoes. The most important is shirts and pants if you're building a wardrobe.

Shirts:

Shirts are your bread and butter. I'm a 42 chest and have a similar problem. the remedy is to go out and try shirts from several different brands, and find the ones that are cut to suit you. Also, you need to make friends with a great tailor, who can measure you up and get you sorted.

Pants:

I thought pants were easy, but you would be amazed to know the variations. Most importantly, the number and type of front pleats, the material and how it drops, and the cut play a huge part in how a pair of pants sit on you.

Jackets:

Not sure of the type of work, but you might not need to wear matching jackets/pants. A nice business jacket/pant combo should set you apart with a little tailoring. I find business suit jackets are really boxy, and can always use some cinching at the waist.

Ties/tie bars/ cufflinks/ accessories

Assuming a nice watch is sorted (:op), accessories play a big role in looking good. There was a great article with the wardrobe designer of Mad Men on askmen.com recently, and he put together the clothing for the characters. He discussed thinner ties, presidential cut pocket squares and so on, you could use much of that.

Tailoring:

Most important is tailoring. I would spend 3-4 grand on clothing and then using the rest to get all of your clothing tailored perfectly to your body type and style of wear. Either that, or you spend a lot of time hunting around in shops trying to find cuts off the rack. It's possible. There is an Australian designer whose cuts are a relaxed European cut and not really slim-fit (I have no idea what body-type fits on those, by the way). Tried on a 44 (my actual size and it fit well enough, but was a little baggy. Tried on the 42, and the waist was cinched perfectly to my shape, sleeves were exactly where I would have had them tailored, and the length was exactly where I wanted it. Needless to say, I got both the black and blue jackets

Great tailoring never goes out of style. I've moved from very fashionable to more classic, well-selected pieces. The streams of compliments tell me the changes are for the better

Most important, enjoy it clothing should be fun and rewarding, and not a chore. Look for the fun in everything, makes life more fun to live and if you need inspiration, watch any of the last 5 Bond movies, especially the recent ones with Craig... Tom Ford designed all the clothing and Holy Crap, he's a fantastic designer.

Have fun mate!

SR

[VesperMatt]

There is a website that I check every morning: http://www.dappered.com Its all about sales and saving money on classic wardrobe staples for men. Lots of suggestions for cherry picking pieces from stores. They also often cover some of the new internet MTM operations that are really maturing right now, and allow you to order pants, shirts, and even suits at cut rate prices made specifically for you. Also, in the upper right hand corner is a link to their forum which is great if you are looking for a specific item. For example, I was looking for some monk strap shoes and several people were able to direct me to an assortment of what seem like quality pieces.

My favorite place to steal looks from is http://www.mrporter.com A lot of the stuff is very top-end but you can often find substitutes elsewhere and just in general copy the overall look. There may be a couple items here and there that you might want to splurge on, I keep a particular eye on their accessories and shoes.

Like above, find a good tailor. Fit is everything. It doesn't matter if you're wearing a $10 Merona dress shirt from Target or a Hugo Boss if the fit is crap.

[Physher007]

I great tailor I have fortunately, she has been a miracle worker in some respects (she once took an impossible amount out of a velvet tux jacket I dropped off four days before New Years)

Great websites! I have particular trouble with cuffs on jackets, the sleeves are always too long and need quite a bit taken out - generally more than the buttons allow and tailoring the whole guy is expensive, though necessary.

I am buckling down for some serious shopping, which I do genuinely enjoy, in order to find some brands that fit my body type. I am very much brand loyal, so hopefully I can find a couple designers that won't need a terrible amount of tailoring... provided I don't put the weight on this upcoming holiday season Any recommendations for those with similar body types would be massively appreciated

@SubbiesRock - do you happen to know the name of the Aussie designer?

...hmmm Merona you say lol

Great suggestions, thanks - and I will be getting some Bond flicks on my NetFlix cue

[Watchmeister]

If you are basically in a suit environment I would do the following. Find a $1200-$2500 per suit custom suit maker (at least in the U.S.). Have them make up two midprice suits and you will find they offer you great deals on custom shirts to go with them. So, two suits at $1700 each, 6 shirts at $125 or so each and you will still have $1000 left for a good pair of shoes and a few ties. If you are in the U.S. I can steer you to one of these outfits and they actually come to your office. Could it be more convenient? I don't even shop anymore for work clothes.The only downside is that you will end up in ever more expensive suits as we do with watches. The folks who pay $4,000 for a suit have always amazed me. Let's face it, you can get a better true custom "rep" for half the price. And yes, you can even show the suit maker a picture of one you loved in a magazine and voila.

[VesperMatt]

Great suggestions, thanks - and I will be getting some Bond flicks on my NetFlix cue

This website is a fun companion: The Suits of James Bond. Just don't start feeling the need to emulate the Dalton era's wardrobe.

[subbiesrock]

@SubbiesRock - do you happen to know the name of the Aussie designer?

...hmmm Merona you say lol

Great suggestions, thanks - and I will be getting some Bond flicks on my NetFlix cue

Designer is SABA. Used to be right up there, with Australian design and production. Now moved much of their production out of Australia, so lost their cachet as their clothing says 'made in China'. Some great pieces, totally worth a look.

Merona? I wish! would be a lot cheaper to dress if it were

Congrats on the position

[jg2000]

There are several things to take into consideration, so here goes:

As fare as tailor made suits go, I agree, they are, by far, the best you can get. Sorting them out is sometimes wearisome though and bear in mind that it can - and will - take six weeks to get them ready

Although these days I too wear primarily bespoke suits, my world opened up when a colleague of mine a couple of years ago introduced me to Italian suits.Not your truly expensive stuff from Borelli, Brioni or Kiton, mind you, but the almost bespoke brands like Boglioli, Rafaelle Caruso and, to a lesser extent in my case because I am smaller and therefore not the type, Corneliani and Zegna

If you are a regular guy with a regular fit any Italian brand or other with Italian fit will make you look like a million dollars.

Since these suits can be bought sometimes below 1200 dollars they make a fantastic investment. You need to consider to buy more than 2 suits because wearing them too often and taking them (only 2 mind you) to the drycleaners too often will make any suit look like it was bought at Walmart after only a year. So I would advice to go for 3 suits at least, one being blue, another grey and a third maybe a small pinstripe (not the big chalks please, they look like jailbars).

Another thing to consider when buying suits is to have them fit tightly. People generally tend to buy one size too large because it fits so comfortably. That looks ridiculous. If you go to a good shop or tailor take your time, actually listen to them even when they want you to try a size smaller than you'd care for.

Also: When you go for the almost-bespoke Italian type suit, make sure that when they fit it to your arms length, they reapply the kissing - and usable! - buttons. This tells other in the know that you either have an expensive - though we know better - Italian suit or that you have a bespoke suit. It is THE signature of a man that takes care of his - obviously expensive since few suits can pull off this trick - clothing

Of course when are able to unbutton your arm partly it also gives more room for your watch to show your good taste in watches too.

Cufflinks and shirts: I agree completely that these should be bespoke and if possible slim fit. Also be sure to be able to wear cufflinks. Nothing looks so silly as a cheap shirt in a great suit. Best shirts? A completely white shirt, naturally. You should have at least 5 of them. As for cuffs: Ken has some great Paul Smith cuffs, cuffs with a twist which are good value cause the store I go toe has them for 3 times that much in store.

Shoes: Lets see. Black and somewhat pointy are popular in higher echelons everywhere. Not so sure in for instance finance about cognac coloured shoes although I personally love my Santoni's. Then again, I work in a major IT corp not in finance.

Since we don't care so much for ties in IT I may not be the best to advice on that, but I have a large collection and the ones I carry most are the plain coloured: Deep red (looks good on every suit, pinstripe or blue or whatever), light blue (on your blue or grey suit) are good choices

Learn to tie a double windsor - not that hard - and you look like a million dollars. James Bond eat your heart out ;-)

Enjoy finding out what you like. And let us know how things went

Rgrds

JG2000

[Watchmeister]

JG-

Great post. I do think the Italian styling will be a function of your body type and age. And you are so right on the shirts and suits . The best part of custom is that you can have the cuff on your watch wearing sleeve enlarged to ensure that the watch fits under and true functioning buttons on the suit coat sleeve not only tell everyone it is a custom or a better suit but also give folks a glimpse of that expensive watch.

[chronology1066]

I agree with a greater proportion of the posts here. Just avoid crass overpriced and average quality brand/designer names. Get a good tailor and suppliment with a pair or two of good quality benchmade shoes.

[bekesy]

I recognize that this is an old thread - but in case anyone else it checking it out - I've had good success with indochino.com. They make a nice bespoke suit, that fits incredibly well, for about the price of a halfway decent off the rack number from Macy's.

(I'm 6'7", 220lbs, 44L jacket to 34" pant - off the rack is off the table).

I took a chance with them to order a custom tux for a charity gala last summer and it fit like a glove. an additional 3 suits later - I couldn't be happier. (Incidentally, I have other bespoke suits that I've paid $1500+ for that are no better than what I got from these guys.)

Disclaimer: Absolutely nothing in it for me - I've just been impressed with the product and price.

cheers-

[captain swoop]

I like retro gear.

I have half a dozen 1950s - 60s suits, they are all Bespoke when they were made and a local guy adjusts them for me. I collect old Flying Jackets as well so I could easily spend £5000.

I have some genuine WW2 A2 Jackets that are too prcious to wear so out and about I wear replica jackets by www.aeroleatherclothing.com or www.eastmanleather.com Both UK companies but they make the best replica US jackets.

For anything else these are the folks to check out Magnoli Both UK companies but they make the best replica US jackets.

For anything else these are the folks to check out www.magnoliclothiers.com

They have suits, overcoats, shirts (all bespoke) hats boots, shoes etc.

Edited January 16, 2012 by captain swoop

[paneraiguy]

Fly to hong kong, get 5 suits, shirts made, have a mini break and head back home. All sorted!!!!

Sent from SUNRAY MINOR

[captain swoop]

Also try www.itailor.com

They will do you a customized bespoke suit. You specify colour and type of fabric, collar style , lining. pocket style , number of buttons, length of jacket etc.

They will even monogram the label. All for a fixed price.

Airmail to wherever you are.

Edited January 26, 2012 by captain swoop

[maxman]

They say the 70's look is back..I say "good thing" love the 70's retro style.

Man oh man....the ass Im going to get rocking these bad boy threads.

[seriph]

Old thread I know, but still relevant to many fellas - being in Melbourne Australia, there is a killer retro store in Melbourne Central that sells bespoke and off the rack "swing era" clothing. Their ties and shirts are the best I've seen and their suits are unique to the point that when wearing them, I have men and women ask where I buy my clothes from - granted that was ten years ago but it'd still apply apart from my ever growing girth

One thing I grew to understand when working purely in the commercial world was: Be your own brand. This doesn't mean you don't buy great branded product .... just that a person really benefits from exploring and discovering the best look for them and going with it

These days I wear suits rarely, but for example I have a stunning grey one, with a mauve and turquoise stripe - all hand made, hand ticking and a lot of additional detailing like the buttons on the cuffs actually undo ... also the thread on the last cuff button is turquoise - I wear this to important meetings or functions and accessorise it with my Audemars Piguet Montauk Highway (the inspiration for the suit) real turquoise cufflinks and (usually) a Montblanc Mark Twain ballpoint, or Montblanc Gandhi rolling ball pen. I bought several ties to compliment the whole affair and a couple of crisp white shirts. I wear black narrow square-toed slip ons or lace ups in the same style.

I also have a brown combo when I am going retro and want to stand out

For day to day consulting work I wear slacks in either dark grey, tan, black or a mid-blue. Then I accessorise. I own maybe a dozen vests which I love wearing ... most vintage chosen for effect. I have changed the buttons on the suit vests to tailor them away from looking like I grabbed one third of my suit and threw it on ... and my ties .... well here we enter fun territory! Five drawers of ties, kept in a custom cabinet I made last Christmas.

Bottom drawer are the money ties - Burberry would be the lowest grade brand in there -- Gaultier, Fornasetti, Westwood, Zegna, Versace etc.The other four drawers are full of ties that I saw and immediately loved.

BTW I am 54 not 24 .... these are a collection spanning many years. Oh, and the majority of the ties came from Op Shops ... Thrift Shops ... some may call them OXFAM shops. Including the top shelf ones.

I call this "Dressing like you mean it" but then, I am a dill

Finally I just want to bore you with one more of my silly insights - SHOES MATTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nothing looks worse than a guy dressed nicely with garbage, worn down, dirty shoes.

[seriph]

This is one of the combos I like to wear (photo of actual items)

And another

[woof*]

I have had only a couple jobs in my life that suits were worn. I miss those days and really love fine clothing.

[CUInDOR]

If you keep an eye out, you can get some classic Allen Edmonds shoes for ~$200. No reason to pay full price, but they are necessary. Best shoes I've ever owned.

[eore65]

Also try www.itailor.com

They will do you a customized bespoke suit. You specify colour and type of fabric, collar style , lining. pocket style , number of buttons, length of jacket etc.

They will even monogram the label. All for a fixed price.

Airmail to wherever you are.

Thanks for the tip.

[eore65]

 

 

Where can I find a cabinet like that??

[seriph]

I designed and made this one but estimate it "could" be reproduced for around $4500AUD   -   now before the tirade begins that I place an insanely high value on my work etc. etc. let me explain where the money goes:

 

the materials alone were over $1600 (Australian Cedar)

 

Design time was around 2 days including refinements to ensure a complimentary scale was achieved and all proportions were "of the period"

 

Actual making time was around 8 days, including phone calls and the time required for travel to and from a timber merchant

 

So, accounting for those factors it works out to a labour rate of just over $36 per hour. Not moaning about that at all, but I understand that many people compare handmade pieces made in a developed country with stuff they can get cheap from Asia. 

 

Hopefully people 'get' that this is another thing altogether.

 

BTW I priced a one-off version of this made from Mahogany in Indonesia  -  I was quoted $2200+ delivery which seemed OK but I would not only have to still draw the thing, I would have to make sure all dimensions were 1000000000% perfect before sending it off AND provide an additional set of 'working drawings' which provide exhaustive details about how it had to be made  -  that would have taken me around a week

 

... note too that this is just for the upper section ... the lower is an original Victorian piece from the late 1800's. They can be found for around $600.

 

Cheers

Edited January 22, 2013 by seriph

[eore65]

wow...well that explains why it looks so unique. I need to find something similar to that because I have no design experience or time to figure it out. 

 

Thanks for the info Seriph. Your cabinet is awesome.

[martijnp]

Also try www.itailor.com

They will do you a customized bespoke suit. You specify colour and type of fabric, collar style , lining. pocket style , number of buttons, length of jacket etc.

They will even monogram the label. All for a fixed price.

Airmail to wherever you are.

 

Talking about iTailor.com, somebody who has experience with this website?

[ExtraExtra]

Another option would be to contact Ken for a personal shopping at Bergies...you'll walk away with a whole new set of wardrobe,.