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Hacking or non-Hacking


vlydog

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If I am correct, the Rolex reference 5514 was produced from 1969 through 1977 and used the caliber 1520 movement.

For a 5514 in the 4.0 million serial range, would the movement be hacking or non-hacking?

I also remember reading that there were both 17 and 26 jewel versions of the 1520. Which would be the most appropriate?

Thank you!

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4 million is around 1974 and on so I say hacking.

Hacking started around 1972 as I understand.

The 17 jewel 1520 might have been for the American market- the old keep the jewels down for the import tax- but I'd go for the 26 jeweled movt.

Edited by alligoat
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4 million is around 1974 and on so I say hacking. Hacking started around 1972 as I understand.

Thank you

Just found this statement on Rolex forums:

"Indeed the 1520 movement at one time was released with a 17 jewel movement. This in response to tariff considerations in select markets (read North American) beginning sometime in the 60s. Not sure how long this went one, but I believe well into the 70s at a minimum."

So I guess it all depends on when and where it was sold.

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The Goat is right.

Get the hack movement because it is worth a little more at resale. Go for the no hack if you need an earlier type movement in a particular watch or just remove the hack parts from a hack movement.

Always go for a 26 jewel model as the 17 jewel model has trouble when the bushings wear out on the reversers and intermediate wheel.

Regular 26 jewel parts (jewels) will not work in 17 jewel autowind assemblies, you will need to order jewels by size for the 17 jewel a/w assembly and then install them using a Seitz etc jewel tool. It is not hard to do but you might practice setting jewels on something of less value first. A regular staking tool will get the old bushings out but it will be hard to set jewels to the correct depth without a micrometer dial on a jewel tool or at least one with a graduated scale.

In the USA, look on dashto.com for used jewel tools etc. No worries, Tom is a first class guy.

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