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Looking for a vintage 1016


Lo'

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Good morning everybody!

Very new to all this but I have been lurking in the shadows for a while. Now I feel ready to take the plunge and would like to begin with my "grail": A vintage Rolex Explorer I with tritium dial. Anyone can recommend a maker?

I see that there is a post from a fellow countryman (Accio) which has bought from this "jmb" but I cannot seem to find any trace of a seller by that name in the forum. Any pointer will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Have a great weekend

Lorenzo

Edited by Lo'
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I'm replying to my own questions... As it seems I had not been looking long and hard enough. I found JMB! Unfortunately in one of his posts last September he states that he's going to take a break from building 1016 reps... My usual luck... :cry2:

Edited by Lo'
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Welcome aboard Lo'! You might check with jmb and see if he's got anything left over.

If not, you can go with the Trusty vintage Explorer 1 and hopefully it will work for you

http://www.ttw168.co...products_id=567

It's generally regarded as a good rep and even though we suspect the eta will be an asian clone, it nontheless will hopefully function well.

Another thing to do is keep using the Search Function and keep reading- there's a lot to learn around here.

One of the things you can learn how to do is build watches- like the Explorer I- I built this one for around $500

photo-4.jpg

I used a gen 1601 Datejust case, a relumed Yuki dial and a 2824-2 eta movement that I had lying around. Other parts were a set of Clark's hands, a jmb bezel and a Clark's T-22 crystal.

It's more than a vintage Explorer I from Trusty, but it's a solid watch and WR to boot. You can learn how to build watches by sticking around here, but starting with a watch from Trusty (Andrew) would be a good first step.

Edited by alligoat
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Hello and thanks a lot for the welcome, highlights and pointers.

I have been visiting the Trusty Time site and I effectively find the 1601 rep there to be (at least on picture) quite good. I have just been enquiring about the availability of the piece and hopefully will receive a positive answer that will allow me to place an order. I also have tried PM'ing JMB and am currently waiting for an answer from him if he will care to.

For what is about assembling a watch by myself... let's say that each individual has got his own skills, handicraft is not one of my assets, I am fairly satisfied with having learnt to fit a bracelet/strap on a watch without scratching it (too much)... B) That said I keep reading avidly because I am curious and convinced that knowledge, any kind of knowledge, is power. :)

Cheers

Lorenzo

Edited by Lo'
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I've got Trusty's 1016 and I vintagized it. I have since "unvintagized it and restored it back to looking "as new". I have a new Clark crystal on it that was modded to fit right. Trusty's lug holes are my biggest beef. But you can drill them out bigger. The lug hole pins are curved to fit the bracelet properly. Don't let that stop you. It works just fine. Just don't loose them. Don't know how proper lug pins will work though once you drill out the holes bigger. I have mine on a gen Rolex alligator strap, so not an issue.

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"Very new to all this but I have been lurking in the shadows for a while. Now I feel ready to take the plunge and would like to begin with my "grail": A vintage Rolex Explorer I with tritium dial. Anyone can recommend a maker?"

I put a few together and here is what I did:

1...start with the dial and hands, genuine or replica, with dial feet for Eta, DG, rolex etc depending on movement to be used (if possible)

notes...

*genuine trit dials are pricey, replacement T25 dials with Luminova are good too (any dial will work with an Eta if you cement it to the calendar spacer)

*try to use a slow beat (21600 bph Eta 2846 etc) movement, not a 28800 bph model (2824/2836 etc), any dial will work with an Eta if you cement it to the calendar spacer

*DG 2812/13 etc (21600 bph) is not as easy to mount 'no feet' dials on but it can be done

*rolex 1520/70 really needs proper dial feet, (if using a date movement you will need a shorter canon pinion and hour wheel, sweep sec pinion is the same)

*Etas are a lot cheaper than rolex!

*get a movement spacer for the movement/case combo if you can (may require a little bit of machine work), do not use a plastic spacer but go with a metal spacer and case clamps/screws, sometimes you can cement the dial to the movement spacer without a calendar spacer...'Stilty's Spacers' etc

2...measure the OD of the dial and make a note

3...find a case, genuine (1600, 16000, 16200, or replica case) that will work with the dial

note...use a case with lug holes if at all possible and drill them to 1.3mm, then shorten to fit and polish the tips of a set of submariner springbars

4...get a proper 1016 crystal, I use GS PA 464-64C because they are the same spec as genuine and only cost $9 or so

5...get a bezel, a DJ bezel will not work because the 1016 crystal has a thicker sidewall (and top)

note...the bezel may have to be 'professionally' fitted if it is aftermarket

6...if using a genuine 1600, 16000, or 16200 case, the standard tube and crown will work (sapphire cases use a 5.3mm tube with a 6.0mm crown), replica cases will usually accept genuine tubes and crowns so it's usually best to go that route

7...decide on a bracelet type...folded, rivet, or later model

8...read all you can on the forums about 1016 projects

9...find someone on the forums who will help you after you get the parts (some members may have a few parts left from projects)

10...disregard all the above and try to find one already assembled (best idea imho)

Good luck! :good:

Edited by automatico
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Hello and thanks to all those which chimed in with their comments, you're being plenty helpful!

After thinking the matter over for a while and having pondered a number of possibilities, I have decided to give Trustytime a chance; I have just ordered their vintage Exp I after obtaining a "go" from Andrew in regard to the item's availability. Let's see what I get.

Of course I consider this as a starting point but I hope I'm not going to be disappointed.

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Been thinking about a vintage 1016 too. Let us know what you think when you get it. I just got a 1665 GW from Andrew and it is awesome.

Thanks for sharing Chuck... I hope I'm gonna be able to say that my Exp I is awesome too :sweatdrop:

Would you care to post a couple of pics of your new baby? Just curious.

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I just got an email from Andrew; the 1016 is ready to ship and it's going to be one of those with the "super precision" inscription on the dial.

As such this reference can be dated back to the late fifties or early sixties. It needs to be "vintagized", is there anyone doing this kind of things in EU?

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I just got an email from Andrew; the 1016 is ready to ship and it's going to be one of those with the "super precision" inscription on the dial.

As such this reference can be dated back to the late fifties or early sixties. It needs to be "vintagized", is there anyone doing this kind of things in EU?

Please post up the pic once you get it. I'd like to see it myself, just out of curiosity

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Wish Yuki still made them like that ... a good, reasonably priced dial is the last thing I need for my build. I don't want to go the Space Dweller route from ingod44, and I'm not sure the ND Trading offerings at $255 are worth it, even on sale.

Ok this is something I need to ask: Let's pretend I get an SD dial and it fits inside the case and all that jazz. How do I get rid of the "SPACE DWELLER" extra line?

And one more thing :) : I have been visiting NDT and - correct me if I'm wrong - they sell gen parts and watches built with gen parts. Am I wrong? It's not very clear...

Edited by Lo'
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