Rolex 1675 - authentic?

[marrickvilleboy]

hey guys...long time

 

Wanted to get your opinion on this watch.

 

To the 1675 experts here, does this look authentic to you?

 

Seller offered to let me inspect but Rolex will not actually authenticate it and i'm concerned about aftermarket parts been put within.

 

Any thoughts would be helpful!

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rolex-GMT-Master-Ref-1675-/190834976561?pt=AU_Watches&hash=item2c6ea6a731&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1203

 

thanks in advance.

[Guest zeleni kukuruz]

Yepp it's a very nice Gen 1675

[marrickvilleboy]

thanks for response guys

 

seller mentioned that the GMT hand was replaced..

 

Do you know what is the best way to authenticate this?

 

thanks again

[denimhead]

Looks very nice and Gen to me, as MD rightly pointed out you really need to have a movement shot. When you inspect the watch the biggest tell tale will be that the 24hr hand should move in line with the hour hand, in other words its not separately adjustable. Its should also be non hacking if its dated from 1969.

DH

[cjjoyce1]

GMT hand is fine, so are the crown guards. 

 

Nice long "E" dial too.  A movement shot is the only thing missing, but given the dial close-up a few things are apparent - the hand sizes and pinion heights are correct for a 1575 movement.  The hour hand is tracking properly for a non-settable too (notice in a couple shots the time is about 5pm and the GMT hand is nearly pointing at 5 on the bezel, in another it's nearly 3 am and the date advanced to 29, and the GMT hand is nearly at 3, then in another it's 3:15pm and the GMT is just past 15)

 

To me the biggest tell once you get beyond the usual spots is the base of the GMT hand.  On gen's with 1575 movements it's always substantially larger than on aftermarket hands, and because of the hand sizes 80/120/170/20  versus say a DG3804 at 100/150/200/17  or ETA 90/150/170/25  the gen 1575 hour hand pinion is smaller making the pinion plate of the 170 gmt hand look huge comparatively.

 

Compare my pinon to the sale pics and you'll see what I mean - mine is all gen but the hands and  DG3804 beating inside.

[panerai153]

I have a gen 16750 and this looks fine.my case, bezel ,insert look like this one. It's very hard to get the crown/ crown guards to look like this on a rep case.

AFA Rolex authenticating, I don't think Rolex will Authenticate any watches. You could take it to a RSC and ask for a service. They will inspect it for any aftermarket parts which will have to be replaced if they do the service Pretty expensive way to get it authenticated though!!

[Nanuq]

I'm with these guys.  It all looks good but those CGs make my nose itch.  Mine are VERY much more squared off than that, and mine is 6 years older.

 

But the real tell is the profile to the guards, it's a strange upswoop to the underside when viewed from the side, and your case has it perfectly.

 

[Guest zeleni kukuruz]

love the "33" makes me think that you have more days then the rest of us, i bet that its the cold weather there

[Nanuq]

Yeah baby!  Long summer days.  And a tip of the hat, nobody EVER catches that. 

 

The bezel on this looks like a WSO piece to my untrained eye.  The knurling should extend further down the sides, giving it *almost* a bit of a coin edge look.

 

[Guest zeleni kukuruz]

@N, you know mate, ONE day that watch will be mine, and on that day i will in person buy it from you face to face, thats a PROMISE!!!

 

well i just have to win the lottery first, but thats easy

[Nanuq]

Z, do you mean this one, with the tropical gilt dial? 

 

[Guest zeleni kukuruz]

Z, do you mean this one, with the tropical gilt dial? 

 

 

 

FOR SURE!!! Your a very lucky and happy man, with THAT one and ALL the blessed things around you as Famely/bears/trees/[censored] coold snow ect ect!!! If you ever decide to come to Sweden i will take you as north as we can get

[Nanuq]

Yes!  Then we'll go over next door to my country and stop when we reach here.  Do you recognize it?

 

 

[Guest zeleni kukuruz]

hahaha, for sure i do, but does anyone ells?

[Nanuq]

*crickets chirping*

 

The Boss would recognize it, but he's off on vacation. 

[Guest zeleni kukuruz]

Surly, he can't be the onely one, or?

[Seacraft]

I like it but would love to see the serial / ref engravings to be sure. I was going to even bid on it (in my watch list) but I'm holding of on a 1675 for a while. May switch jobs and want to keep my kitty full.

[marrickvilleboy]

Thanks for all of your responses guys.

 

The guy said he bought it off another seller so no history (i'm certain there are other parts replaced on the watch that he either knows about or not aware of)

 

anyway, there is a bid on it now but I'm still hesitant to fork out $4K on this - seems like its the going price anyway

 

correct me if i'm wrong and this is a steal (doubt it is bearing it was unsold previously and its been relisted)

[Seacraft]

Thanks for all of your responses guys.

 

The guy said he bought it off another seller so no history (i'm certain there are other parts replaced on the watch that he either knows about or not aware of)

 

anyway, there is a bid on it now but I'm still hesitant to fork out $4K on this - seems like its the going price anyway

 

correct me if i'm wrong and this is a steal (doubt it is bearing it was unsold previously and its been relisted)

 

Worth 4K all day if the numbers and movement are good.

[AndrewFuller]

Buddy ebay has quite a huge reputation of bringing the best products to the people. They are highly unlikely to do this kind of fraud. I guess if you want to buy one than you should definitely go for it. If possible also contact the owner of the watch.

[phillycheez]

I would ask for a pic of the serial number. Then check if it has the period correct parts... like the dial.

 

Looks all gen to me but if you are buying vintage, that isn't the only thing you look for.

 

Just some quick vintage advice that I posted on the Rolex Forum and what I have learned from my experience and mistakes. There can seriously be a freakin book on "How to buy a vintage Rolex"

 

***When I say "franken" it has a different meaning there by the way. It could be all genuine parts but a mishmash from different models.

 

 

"Don't buy into that NOS and never polished crap.

Have a model in mind and dig deep into the different variations of that model. Choose one and know all... down to movement, dial variations, correct crown, correct insert, correct endlinks, bracelet and insure it's as original to the period it reflects. You will NEVER know if it was swapped for another dial or any other period correct part. You will never be 100% positive but research, research, research will help you lower the risk of buying a franken.

See with your eyes and know what the model SHOULD look like.

The more original the higher the price. Know what RSC Service parts look like... Service dials, hands, insert, crystal, crowns, datewheels... etc. drive the price down. Know what those individual parts go for on the market too which will help you justify prices... for ex. a service insert can cost as little as $100-125 while an original fat font insert can go for $500+! That's a big difference.

Other characteristics that significantly drive price up and down is case condition (over-polished? chipped? deep scratches?), patina color, matching hands, dial and pearl, faded insert, dial texture/color, rarity... you'll figure out real quick and it takes and eye and many sales ads to figure out the "formula" in how these prices come about. You will begin to understand what's over-priced, what's a good deal and what to stay far far away from at just a glance. 

Beyond the model, understand the maintenance side of it... Some movements are so old that finding parts is rare and/or expensive and can also result into getting parts custom made as the only solution. Watch for rust that can be commonly found around the rehaut and caseback which can lead to failed pressure tests. Watch for bracelet stretch as well. 


Biggest advice is RESEARCH and patience."