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Mq case caseback problems


lukenorris2011

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Hello all. I am after some help/advice as This is my second mq case and I really CBF to send it back to Vietnam AGAIN.

The case back will not for correctly to the case. I can probably make one turn if that. I have inspected the threads and I can see only a slight bit of damage to a very small bit.

Do you think this is the cause?

What can be done to rectify this?

It is defo the case not the case back, because the caseback fits fine to the first case he sent me. And one would think in the space of not even a not h they would have been machined the same.

ze6ygasy.jpg

Any help welcomed. :)

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Two cases, and two casebacks... 

 

Case #1 + back #1 is okay

Case #2 + back #2 is wrong

 

Back #2 works with case #1

 

Does Back #1 work with case #2?

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There are really only 2 things that would cause a caseback not to fit a particular case - either the threads are damaged/defective or they vary in their threading. In either case, unless you have access to the appropriate tap/die or a machine shop, I do not know of any way to correct this. So, unless there is a detail I am missing, returning to the seller is about your only option.

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I have junked a few genuine rolex cases because of seized threads but it sounds like yours has mismatched threads if it screws on and off without a lot of torque. Seized threads stick and will not come apart so I would avoid forcing them together much at all. Since these threads are machine cut (not tap and die) there is not much of a fix unless someone is willing to try to straighten them out on a lathe with bits cut to spec...a hellofalot of trouble.

One old trick is to apply a drop or two of fine grade automotive valve lapping compound to the threads and run the case back on and off a few dozen times and see if it ever decides to screw all the way down.

If it ever sticks, it might be stuck for good.

 

I have read so many horror stories about high $$ replica cases that I reach no higher on the shelf than a plain ole MBK.

 

L&T...

"All I hear about this guy is problems..."

 

Me too. For the $$ you pay, this guy should deliver to your door, include a 5 pound box of chocolates, and the parts should be be exactly the same as genuine with no problems.

I still say most of this stuff is souped up $50 cases.

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I really do not want to send it back to Vietnam. It will be the 3rd time. And finally he has got everything else that was wrong correct.

Cheap reps, you can understand.

But when it comes to a midcase/caseback that nears €1000, one would think something so basic would be checked.

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I'm really fed up now. I have everything I need for my build, bar my new bezel which is on route from phong. Now this will be another major set back.

The Annoying thing is, everything else on this case is now perfect.

Fml

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Any other tricks anybody can suggest. Any old watchmakers secrets? Lol...?

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Well , today I visited a friend, the man who actually helped me a lot with watches/antiques. He had a quick look and he saw there was damage to the threads. I've left it with him, he will spend some hours tonight sorting the threads out. (Said he needs Atleast 3)

Hopefully this is the problem. I can't see how they would be machined differently as they are identical and only weeks apart. But hey, in this game you never know.

And as for mq. He denied everything stating it could not be. As he checked the case with a caeback before he posted it out.

Yeah right !

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I hope this works.  I've run into problems with fine threads getting boogered up, and I usually use a sharp pocketknife to straighten them up.  That leaves rough metal at the point of the damage, and unfortunately there's not a file small enough in the whole world to chase the threads.  So the pieces are rough going together for awhile. 

 

Use a hard metal blade, like good high carbon.  It has to be thin and stiff, and extremely sharp.  A carpet cutting blade might do it.  Lay it in the groove at the point of damage, parallel to the threads.  Now roll the caseback back and forth against the knife edge, and as it rolls across the blade, rotate the blade ever so slightly until it's acting as a lathe cutter on the side of the thread.  This works very well with brass, and it might work with steel.  If you need to cut a thread completely down, don't sweat it... it will still work fine as long as the removed thread is in the middle of the stack somewhere. 

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Thanks nanuq. Soooo, finally I get a call from my man. He's had to grind a file down to a very sharp point, and for 4 hours under a loupe re do all the threads. He said that there's no way that MQ could have fitted any caseback on it. So it was all aload of [censored] and mq thought he could fob me of with a pos again.

A serious word too all those thinking of using him, please if you do not have too don't! All you will get is a list of excuses as long as your arm, and a few rude emails trying to put the blaim on you!

****Just my 2cents****

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Freddy, tbh I think it's just a lottery. Some get good products and good experiences some don't. Anyway, I'm just glad I got it sorted within a day with just a £20 bill. A lot less then posting back to Vietnam a few more times! Will be updating everyone when my builds complete.

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I guess I got lucky buying from MQ and getting it right the first time... I had other major setbacks in my build though... so I guess it evens out the build's karma LOL

I'm thinking to get a bezel from Phong for my 6538 to change the MQ's one that is quite cheap despite the price tag....

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