phwtan Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I'm wanting to do this for a repair, so would like to do this without damaging the link. Has anybody done this? If so, how was it done? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 You need a special reverse vice. It looks like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watcher Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Is that from the guys on YouTube!!? I keep looking for one of those! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phwtan Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Ohhh...very cool...and it won't destroy the link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 The "grips" are made with replaceable rubber pads and won't mar the surface. One would have to get this vice custom-machined. Not exactly a wal-mart item Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irolexu Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I've done it. I swapped out rep end links on a TC and fitted gen 93160a end links and it worked great. Need a special tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagnesky Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Hmm good thing if you want to swap te last link on a tc to a stamped one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue. Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) Nice topic, wanted to share my experience since quite some time. Yes, the best and safest way to do is using that tool showed by dbane. It is a picture from the site of Michael Young (famous bracelet restorer from HK). But, this tool is most probably custom made, to my knowledge you can not buy this. If yes, expect unrealistic prices. I needed this desperately some time ago but asked myself to which essential parts can this be limited and redone in an affordable budget friendly way? Here is the result: This is a pair of cheap expanding pliers. It is really important to file down a very thin tip, split upside down "T" type (I have drawn a bit into the image to show how it should be). Not too thin as the tips would bend. The tiny tips are there to transfer the force from the expanding pliers in the inner walls of the bracelet link. One has to do this very carefully, as small unwanted marks are inevitable, though can be polished/filed down carefully later before assembly. The forces to open the link were surprisingly high. These links are hold by three pins, that go well deep into the side parts of the links. Picture from WUS Hope JMB gets caught up one day, so we can fund a "Oyster Reverse Vice" project to do this type of tool Edited December 15, 2014 by blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I'm making a tool like Bubba Darth showed above and might be able to do it, eventually. It's about half finished, like a lot of my other projects... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue. Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I'm making a tool like Bubba Darth showed above and might be able to do it, eventually. It's about half finished, like a lot of my other projects... Top notch, J! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irolexu Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 In the mean time I got a great guy in Dallas who can do it and do a really good job. PM me for details if you need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue. Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 The two fixing pieces of the upper showed tool by "dbane" have to be well covered by a thin enough rubber like "coat" otherwise this might happen: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f23/can-rolex-remove-permanent-links-oyster-368549-2.html#post3399029 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 How about: Take two medium size Vise Grip pliers and taper one jaw on each one on a grinder to more or less match the bottom curve of an oyster link. Drill and tap one hole each on the tops of the jaws of a bench vise...about 8mm or 5/16US. Drill one mounting hole in the most suitable jaw on each Vise Grip. Mount the Vise Grips to the vise jaws with bolts. Line the Vise Grip jaws with soft copper or brass. Clamp the link with the Vise Grips and unscrew the vise jaws to pull it apart. Most bench vises are made of nodular iron and it is fairly easy to drill and tap. The Vise Grip jaws might be a little harder but it can be done. I eyeballed my vises and Vise Grips and it looked like it would not be too hard to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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