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Cartel Revised case shape Vintage Rolex model on Perfect Clones


denimhead

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These really look great. I'm on the Perfect Clones mailing list and Josh recently sent out a big email announcement advertising all of the "new" vintage pieces.

Are you guys buying the 2813 versions or the ETA versions?  Is everything else the same with the two, just different hands and movements/dial feet?

Who supplies those Vietnamese dials?  Are they readily available?  Rough budget?  Those look fantastic!

I've bought the 21j version. Was a mod just for fun.. Now i love it :-)

21j is more gen like if you look at the bph.. 2813 is 21600bph, 2836 is at 28800.

Gen is around 21000 i think..

Case is the same.

Dial feet, dwo and hands are different. You can get all that stuff for 2813/2836 at raffles or wso.

Dont know about the VN-dial, sorry.

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Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches

How is the bracelet? 93150?

Bracelet is 93150 with hollow midlinks.. Btw: The stock endlinks fit 2mm springbars..

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Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches

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11 hours ago, Mendota Explorer said:

Who supplies those Vietnamese dials?  Are they readily available?  Rough budget?  Those look fantastic!

There are several suppliers that provide the same dials. I would recommend tonnywatches on instagram.

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Bracelet is 93150 with hollow midlinks.. Btw: The stock endlinks fit 2mm springbars..

-sent from my iphone using tapatalk

Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches

Thanks for the info. Yes, I think the 21j might be the best starting point for a budget build, unless I drop in a low beat 2846. With some of those gens the vph was 19,800 so all around the 21j is a good compromise. Also good to know about the endlinks. That makes it so much easier.

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There are several suppliers that provide the same dials. I would recommend tonnywatches on instagram.

Thank you!! I'm going to check him out now!

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36 minutes ago, Mendota Explorer said:

Are these genuine dials or reps?  I am not looking for a genuine dial.  I'd just like a nicer option than the stock Cartel dials.  Yuki is nice.

These are as rep as they get, however gen sized dial. So a 1680/1665 wont fit Cartel or MBW cases. 6538 wont fit... most cases. 7928... etc.

Check the original sizes before ordering. And also, feet must be clip'd, unless you're planning on putting a gen movement, then you're... well... overdoing it? :)

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These are as rep as they get, however gen sized dial. So a 1680/1665 wont fit Cartel or MBW cases. 6538 wont fit... most cases. 7928... etc.

Check the original sizes before ordering. And also, feet must be clip'd, unless you're planning on putting a gen movement, then you're... well... overdoing it?

How much are they? I don't have an Instagram account so I can't see any prices.

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12 hours ago, Mendota Explorer said:

How much are they? I don't have an Instagram account so I can't see any prices.

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I Think it depends fully on which dial we're talking about.

Somewhere between 200 USD too 400 USD. The upper limit is tropical gilt dials etc. The lower limit is "simpler" printed matt dials.

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I Think it depends fully on which dial we're talking about.

Somewhere between 200 USD too 400 USD. The upper limit is tropical gilt dials etc. The lower limit is "simpler" printed matt dials.

I'm thinking when I really get into this I'd rather make my own dials like you guys are doing. Those look so much better, plus they are cheaper and they are hand made! I'd love to find out more about it sometime.

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Bracelet is 93150 with hollow midlinks.. Btw: The stock endlinks fit 2mm springbars..

-sent from my iphone using tapatalk

Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches

Quick question about the endlinks and lugholes while using 2mm bars. Do the tips of the springbars still line up correctly and go into the holes when switching to the 2mm bars without doing any mods? I ask because when I switched to 2mm bars with my Puretime 1680, that slight difference in thickness caused the bar tips to not line up with the holes. I even tried using WSO 580 end links and they wouldn't line up, either. What a nightmare.

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As i use the stock endlinks, and drilled the lug holes, the tips of the springbars snap in without any work.

The wso 580 endlinks need some mod to fit the lugholes by using 2mm springbars, afaik.

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Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches

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It's the latest version of the Cartel case. Here's the Link to the build:

http://rwg.cc/index.php?/topic/181702-The-updated-Cartel-5513

Yes, well spotted it's a Yuki pearl.

Ok, maybe its just the older cases which not accept wso 580 endlinks without mods.

I've read it somewhere i think..

Whatever, that stock case looks awesome, including the bevelling.

Cheers

Phil

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59 minutes ago, Mr Seamaster said:

Ok, maybe its just the older cases which not accept wso 580 endlinks without mods.

I've read it somewhere i think..

Nope, didn't have a problem with the older cases either. Maybe I was lucky. Here's an older case with WSO 580 endlinks. 

IMG_0621.JPG

IMG_0622.JPG

 

 

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I've read over on RWI that the new batches of WSO 580 endlinks haven't been up to the same level of quality that the previous ones were.  I am not the only one who has had problems getting them to fit.  Maybe it is a case by case issue?  I am sure when they drill these lugholes they aren't using tolerances of tens of thousandths of an inch. Some people have had to sand them, or open/close the clam shell to make them work with their cases.  

For me, I ended up breaking off the little ring inside the clamshell.  That happened with one and then I just snapped off the remaining ones from the set.  They work now but they can be a little loose and rattly at times.  WSO sent me a replacement set but those don't work any better.  I have not monkeyed with those little rings out of fear of breaking them off.

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I've read over on RWI that the new batches of WSO 580 endlinks haven't been up to the same level of quality that the previous ones were.  I am not the only one who has had problems getting them to fit.  Maybe it is a case by case issue?  I am sure when they drill these lugholes they aren't using tolerances of tens of thousandths of an inch. Some people have had to sand them, or open/close the clam shell to make them work with their cases.  

For me, I ended up breaking off the little ring inside the clamshell.  That happened with one and then I just snapped off the remaining ones from the set.  They work now but they can be a little loose and rattly at times.  WSO sent me a replacement set but those don't work any better.  I have not monkeyed with those little rings out of fear of breaking them off.

Ah so i wasnt that wrong that they don't fit sometimes without mods..

Imo the stock cartel endlinks are more than ok for fitting 2mm springbars, no need to spend the bucks on wso 580's..

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"I've read over on RWI that the new batches of WSO 580 endlinks haven't been up to the same level of quality that the previous ones were.  I am not the only one who has had problems getting them to fit.  Maybe it is a case by case issue?  I am sure when they drill these lugholes they aren't using tolerances of tens of thousandths of an inch. Some people have had to sand them, or open/close the clam shell to make them work with their cases."

I bought a few sets of WSO 580 hoods a couple months back and had to fit each one to MBK cases (do not have the latest cartel case yet). It was fairly easy as all I had to do was cut a little bit off the curved top side and maybe squeeze the 'ears' a bit against the underside of the lugs. Where you usually get in trouble with aftmkt hoods with soldered spring bar tubes is when you force the hoods against the case while trying to get the spring bar tips started through the lug holes...the tubes sometimes break off. I drill the lug holes to 1.3mm and slightly taper the holes on the insides of the lugs to help guide the spring bars...while taking care that the tops of the hoods do not rub against the rotating bezel.

I have an MBK '5513' with a 7836 folded oyster from 'Mary' and I removed the tubes from the hoods and they stay in place pretty good. The hoods that came with the bracelet are numbered 358 and look just like genuine but the tubes did not line up with the MBK lug holes. I used a shallow 'eight holes in a row' vintage type clasp cap without a dive extension with one link removed from the 6 o'clock end of the bracelet to center it on the wrist...5 links on 6 o'clock side, 7 on 12 o'clock side with 2 of the 7 links under the clasp cap. Next, I made a tool out of a pair of strap notching pliers to punch proper 'keeper dents' in the clasp cap to hold the bracelet up against the clasp cap at the open end so it would not flop around.

Sometimes it's easier to just give up and remove the tubes and let the hoods be loose on older style bracelets. 

 I ground a slight 'beak' on the movable cutter jaw and narrowed the jaw slightly on both sides so it would not cut into the clasp cap. It makes near perfect keeper dents.   Here is what the notch cutter tool looked like to start with, except mine has a wider cutting jaw:   eBay item   280975259346

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18 hours ago, Mr Seamaster said:
Ah so i wasnt that wrong that they don't fit sometimes without mods..

Imo the stock cartel endlinks are more than ok for fitting 2mm springbars, no need to spend the bucks on wso 580's..

 

Guess I was lucky with my WSO 580s, last ones I bought were a few weeks ago.

If you don't mind the inaccurate open access to the springbars on the Cartel 580s they'll do the job. However, they are an easy tell to spot off the wrist.

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Here's mine. Essentially the same watch but in the style of a Tudor 7928. Been wearing it for a few hours now and I have to say that over all I really like it. If I have any complaint it would be that the bezel feels loose. Of course it looks too new for a watch from the 60's. I don't believe I'll do any mods for the time being.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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