Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
  • Current Donation Goals

Is this a GEN Rolex Cal. 1030


TheSociety

Recommended Posts

Yes. To date, I have not heard of anyone manufacturing aftermarket 103x movements.

Thank you Freddy! Do you happen to
Know what's a fair price for this? I see $1500-1900 is that about right?


Want to Buy: Vintage DW Daytona and Franken / Phong Daytona 6263, 62xx, etc!
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A fair price is what a buyer is willing to pay. Currently, for a clean/working 1030, I would consider $1,800-$2,000 a reasonable range.

This is very informative. Thank you Freddy! Now if only I can find a v72 lol


Want to Buy: Vintage DW Daytona and Franken / Phong Daytona 6263, 62xx, etc!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Know what's a fair price for this? I see $1500-1900 is that about right?"

In today's market probably. 

"A fair price is what a buyer is willing to pay."

True.  I simply can/will not pay today's prices.  I guess that is why I am on a replica site.   :pimp:

Last 1030 (1066) I bought a few years back was in an 80% condition 1959 6605 SS DJ for $700 with a swiss jubilee bracelet.  One before that was a 1956 tutone 6605 with original tt bracelet for $1000 but it has a refinished dial.  A few years ago some of the 'rolexperts' claimed they never made a tutone 6605, only SS and all gold...until they started showing up.

Btw, the 1030 has one more or less common problem that is expen$ive to fix today because of few parts...the winding rotor bearing p/n 7004.  They used to be $30, now they are $200 or $300 when you can find one and many movements will need one.  Projects with cal 1520/30/60/70 usually end up costing less and parts are much easier to find.  Rotor bearings for a 15xx are $15 or $20 a set but it is usually the rotor axle that goes bad, about $12 plus labor.  Reverser parts for a 1030 are harder to find than 15xx parts too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, automatico said:

Btw, the 1030 has one more or less common problem that is expen$ive to fix today because of few parts...the winding rotor bearing p/n 7004.  They used to be $30, now they are $200 or $300 when you can find one and many movements will need one.  Projects with cal 1520/30/60/70 usually end up costing less and parts are much easier to find.  Rotor bearings for a 15xx are $15 or $20 a set but it is usually the rotor axle that goes bad, about $12 plus labor.  Reverser parts for a 1030 are harder to find than 15xx parts too.

Ditto.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

Yep this is why my 1030s only get worn on special occasions now.

This is also 1 of the reasons it is recommended that mechanical movements be overhauled every 5-7 years. Keeping those wear parts clean & well-oiled will extend their usable lifespan. 1 of the parts that had to be replaced when I built my Phase 2 6542 was that rotor, due to bearing wear. Fortunately, after a great deal of effort, I was able to locate a NOS part & I overhauled the movement last year & found the bearing in fine fettle.:)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is also 1 of the reasons it is recommended that mechanical movements be overhauled every 5-7 years. Keeping those wear parts clean & well-oiled will extend their usable lifespan.


I definitely will be doing this! Do you have a recommendation on US servicing on a movement like this?


Want to Buy: Vintage DW Daytona and Franken / Phong Daytona 6263, 62xx, etc!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, TheSociety said:

I definitely will be doing this! Do you have a recommendation on US servicing on a movement like this?

The 103x caliber is a relatively easy movement for an experienced watchmaker to work on. Trouble is getting parts, since Rolex has not manufactured new 103x parts for decades. But, if you are patient & have deep pockets, they can be found.
If you cannot locate a local Rolex certified service tech, try Bob Ridley.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my 1030 for $1300 two years ago. It was "recently serviced" but there's no way that's the case, because the amplitude of the balance is way low, and the isochronism sucks too. The hairspring is probably out of plane, and the mainspring is probably fatigued.

Recently serviced can be untrue sometimes. Either way, I got a good deal, so I'm not super upset about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my 1030 for $1300 two years ago. It was "recently serviced" but there's no way that's the case, because the amplitude of the balance is way low, and the isochronism sucks too. The hairspring is probably out of plane, and the mainspring is probably fatigued.
Recently serviced can be untrue sometimes. Either way, I got a good deal, so I'm not super upset about it.


Not all watchmakers poise the balance etc. during service. Some will just take apart to clean/oil gears/jewels/bridges and adjust the time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, slay said:

Not all watchmakers poise the balance etc. during service. Some will just take apart to clean/oil gears/jewels/bridges and adjust the time.

I do not know any watchmakers (including myself) who poise the balance as part of a routine service. In fact, unless there is a specific problem with the balance, I cannot think why you would disassemble it in the 1st place. The only time I would poise a balance is when replacing/repairing the hairspring, balance wheel or balance screws.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do not know any watchmakers (including myself) who poise the balance as part of a routine service. In fact, unless there is a specific problem with the balance, I cannot think why you would disassemble it in the 1st place. The only time I would poise a balance is when replacing/repairing the hairspring, balance wheel or balance screws.


If a watchmaker is adjusting the watch, that's what they need to do. Copypasta from my watchmaker below:

Adjusting a watch involves procedures that include
ensuring the balance wheel is 'balanced' (poised),
adjusting the hairspring, and even shaping the balance
pivots and adjusting how the hairspring is attached to
the balance wheel.

The three critical adjustments are for position (as
defined above, see accuracy), temperature (the ability
to keep good time over a range of different
temperatures), and isochronism (the ability to keep an
even rate over the life of one spring wind, typically 24
hours). An un-adjusted watch should run reasonably
constant in two to three positions (for a pocket watch
dial up, pendant up, pendant left/right) as these are the
most common positions the watch would encounter
either in the pocket, or on a table at night. High grade
watches are adjusted to five positions or more.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I figure it is best to stay away from balance assemblies unless there is something wrong.  It is bad enough to have to r/r them during service.  Cleaning and oiling the balance cap/hole jewels is all they get from me as long as the watch keeps good time and the hairspring is level.  If the hs or balance wheel is out of whack, I take it to a guy who can make it right, I no longer screw with them.  I still balance a motorcycle wheel now and then though...last one was a Harley D Garbage Wagon (full dresser) wheel that weighed more than a Puch Maxi MoPed.

Imho the best thing about quartz watches are not convenience or accuracy...it is that they put hairsprings out of business.  

Wearing an Accutron II Alpha today.  Hairbrained maybe, but not hairspringed.    :pimp:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

slay, if your watchmaker has the time/skill to perform this delicate, factory-set adjustment routinely, my hat's off to him.


Yeah... when I read this I thought 'this sounds more complicated than brain surgery' ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, slay said:

Yeah... when I read this I thought 'this sounds more complicated than brain surgery' ;)

Most watchmakers' hesitancy to perform routine poising results from a simple cost/benefit analysis.

In order to repair an errant movement, I must occasionally sort out a mangled hair spring. But I do that because I have no other choice. This is not because I lack the skills, but because the potential upside (questionable improvement in timing consistency) is far outweighed by the potential downside (of hairspring damage). & this is amplified when working on vintage Rolex pieces where replacement 'springs are expensive & difficult (often nearly impossible) to come by. Why tempt fate for what is often little or no return since factory-set poising rarely needs to be corrected during normal use. This is why I questioned your watchmaker's choice of routine poising.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Poising during routine servicing. If the watchmaker is confident that both the balance and hairspring are true in the round and flat, then poising can be used to alleviate positional errors.

But, poising only needs to be performed when there are issues to be addressed. The only time I have had to do any poising (dynamic ;) ) was after a balance staff replacement.

 

I suppose it's up to the watchmaker to decide whether the calibre of movement is performing well enough in positions after servicing, whether any poising needs to take place.

I have serviced 2 chronometers and they were both within spec after...Phew!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In regards to the original post..... Are there really any fake movements that look like this made from scratch or is the implication that there are cases where people create fake movements from some gen parts combined with non gen?    I thought only the Yuki 3135 is a made from scratch replica movement, correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"In regards to the original post..... Are there really any fake movements that look like this made from scratch or is the implication that there are cases where people create fake movements from some gen parts combined with non gen?"

I never saw or heard of a replica or Frankenstein 1030 or 1570.  I have seen fake 'bubbleback' type movements with a very accurate to original BB style cover over the movement and BB type rotor on an extended rotor axle.  The one I took apart used a Bulova movement but do not remember the calibre.  There used to be quite a few floating around watch shows back when BB watches were in demand.  I have a BB replica with a very good case and dial but it has an Eta 2451 in it.  What gives it away (other than the movement) is the SCOC blurb on the dial where genuine models had 'chronometer' or 'officially certified chronometer'. 

"I thought only the Yuki 3135 is a made from scratch replica movement, correct?"

Yes far as I know but the replica 3135 comes in at least two versions...Yuki and another one that has been reported not to be as good.  Iirc the 'not Yuki' clone has red covers mounted over the reversers making it easy to spot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up