How do you tell if watch case is for eta 2824 or 2836??

[Timelord]

A while back before I knew bettter, I bought a sterile watch case on ebay that was advertised to suit eta 2836/2824 and ST2130.  As I now understand it ; if a case is built for a 2836 - a 2824 movement we'll not work ( due to stem hole not lining up properly with stem mvt ) and conversely,  if the case is made for a 2824, the 2836 obviously won't work due to the fact that it is too thick.    

 

Now, to all those who know more about this, is there  a way to tell for which of the two eta mvts the case is made for. Without having to buy both movements and try them out.  I emailed the seller whom I have purchased more times to ask if he had more details about what he sold me and honestly said he did no know apart that all he knew was that it was 2836/2824.  

 

I measured the internal with a Vernier caliper where distance from dial seat to stem hole centre was 2.2mm and to the edge of the case from dial seat was 5.5mm.  If these figures mean anything???  Thanks in advance!!

[alligoat]

Show us which case you're looking at and maybe someone will know. 2836-2 cases are more prevalent IMO.

[Timelord]

1 hour ago, alligoat said:

Show us which case you're looking at and maybe someone will know. 2836-2 cases are more prevalent IMO.

 

I will give it a go.  I am not sure how these images will help, but I guess that a picture says 1000 words.  

 

 

Made several edits but not sure if I nailed it this time

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by Timelord
Attempting to post better resolution photos

[alligoat]

Larger pics and tell us who the seller is- maybe someone will have bought one of these cases

[Timelord]

Thanks!!  I tried to post higher resolution images but my iPad just isn't cooperating.  I purchased this case many moons ago and the seller was then known as TG trade according to my last PayPal receipt.  Problem is that he may have had both 2836 and 2824 cases, so I am not sure which case he would have sold me hoping that the internal dimensions would have revealed some info.  I notice it even now with most other sellers they label them as eta 2824/2836 cases which is annoying!!!

[automatico]

The easiest way is to try a movement with a dial in the case.  You only need one movement...2824 or 2836.  The stem will be centered in the case tube or it will not.

The 2836 is a better choice if you need a date wheel overlay.

 

Many vendors do not know the 2824 and 2836 use different cases.  Same way with cases that sellers claim will accept rolex 3035 and  3135 movements.

[jmb]

I would bet a good portion of Automatico's stash that it's for a 2836 if it came from fleabay...

[Timelord]

14 hours ago, automatico said:

Many vendors do not know the 2824 and 2836 use different cases.  Same way with cases that sellers claim will accept rolex 3035 and  3135 movements.

 

I have seen this analogy with the solid gold cases they used to sell on star supply that are advertised for a day/ date to cater for both 3055/3155. iNow that is what I call taking a risk!!!  Better gambling odds at las vagas

 

3 hours ago, jmb said:

I would bet a good portion of Automatico's stash that it's for a 2836 if it came from fleabay...

 

I wished!!!! Which is what I am hoping for, because most of the cases for 2824 are fairly useless in the rep builds unless they are for non date builds!!! LOL!!!

 

14 hours ago, automatico said:

The easiest way is to try a movement with a dial in the case.  You only need one movement...2824 or 2836.  The stem will be centered in the case tube or it will not.

The 2836 is a better choice if you need a date wheel overlay

 

Thanks!!!  This would be the ideal way to know.  I should have clarified in my OP that I don't have neither of the two movements to check against as I need to buy the right one.   This is why I posted to ask if there was any other way to tell by measuring the internal position of the case and stem hole position.  In hind site I now realise that i have posted a silly question.

Edited July 21, 2017 by Timelord
Grammer corrections

[alligoat]

If you have a dg2813, you could try that- it closely approximates a 2836-2

[bobandshawn]

If I'm not mistaken, all these variables can be accommodated with the use of various size dial spacers (or none) and different Canon pinions if necessary...

 

B

[horologist]

8 hours ago, Timelord said:

In hind site I now realise that i have posted a silly question.

Timelord,

I don't think it is a silly question at all.  Far from it!!!!  These sort of questions I would expect to see from elite forums such as this one and more than often I get answers beyond satisfaction here. You won't find the same on VRF or even on rolexforums .You will notice most of those owners of genuine timepieces that look at us here as inferior beings wouldn't have a clue on what is inside their 5 digit price tag piece.

 

I have been searching a link  since I read your post which I could not find and perhaps this could answer your question.  See Page 8 of 16 in this

http://www.darthalex.com/etapdf/ETA_2836-2_mfg.pdf

 

and you will notice from the engineering drawings of the movement that the distance between the top of the dial spacer and the center stem hole is 2.25 mm +/- err (which is consistent with the data on ranft with T= 2.25mm) and this would be without the dial thickness which for arguments sake I will add another 0.45mm making the distance from the dial to the stem hole >= 2.7mm.  According to your measurements from the dial seat to the  center stem hole, if your measurement of 2.2mm is accurate, this would rule out that the case is for a 2836 and by process of elimination, I would say that it is made for a 2824.  I could not find asimilar document for the 2824 engineering drawings but data from Ranft suggests that the distance from dial spacer to center of stem hole is 1.8mm where I would add another 0.45mm = 2.25mm+/-err which would be consistent with your measurement +/- err.  I would bet money that your case is for a 2824.If anyone can add further, I am not preaching this to be gospel !!!

[automatico]

JMB:  "I would bet a good portion of Automatico's stash that it's for a 2836 if it came from fleabay..."

 

Good bet.  You can't lose!

 

But...if you do lose the bet, I get to pick which portion I give up because I have four 30 gallon plastic tubs half full of DOA-NOS quartz fashionista watches...the 'winner' pays shipping.

The tubs are half full because they were so heavy, I could not carry a full tub across the parking lot to the dumpster in the hot sun and my truck was closer.  Why did I not just drive them to the dumpster?  That is a moot point.   

I thought they just needed a battery...but they need a battery and a movement.  Looks like I missed my one chance to get rid of them when I loaded them in my truck instead of the dumpster.

[jmb]

Sounds like my bolt-bucket.  It's got so much in it now I have to drag it and so deep I can't find anything in it.  I need to toss it...

[sukiv]

Hello, 

hope you don't mind, I'd like to join in as ask a question here so as not to create a new thread. 

 

If i were to build a 1601 datejust non quickset, presumably using the 2836 movement. Does the case need to a special one (apart from being a case for 2836) for "non quickset"? Or it can just be any case that'll fit the 2836? 

 

Thank you 

[horologist]

7 hours ago, sukiv said:

Hello, 

hope you don't mind, I'd like to join in as ask a question here so as not to create a new thread. 

 

If i were to build a 1601 datejust non quickset, presumably using the 2836 movement. Does the case need to a special one (apart from being a case for 2836) for "non quickset"? Or it can just be any case that'll fit the 2836? 

 

Thank you 

 

what do you mean with non quickset 2836?  This movement is a rapid date change.

 

I have used a 1570 movement from a genuine 1500 Date Rolex as a donor in a 18k gold Turnograph and was left with a nice SS case.

 

I got a lower beat eta 2783 to fit inside the 1500 case and worked well.  Th beat rate isn't exactly ideal for this vintage but it was a good stem alignment match. It is important that the height of the movement and the stem hole line up with the case.  If you are using a genuine 1601 case, this is the 36mm version of the Date 1500 which used the same 1570 movement, so I would be inclined to wager on a 2783 to do the trick in your 1601 case. These movements are very well priced on ebay and in my opinion also very under rated.  I actually like it better than both 2824 and 2836 as it is the older school eta. I am not sure if a 2836 movement would fit in a 1601 case even though it is approximately the same thickness as the 2783.  Main concern is the stem lining position, but in the even that it would, it would  be a higher beat which would not really blend in with the style of watch. It would be very much like trying to fit a sapphire crystal on a 5512 milsub. Good luck!!

[sukiv]

30 minutes ago, horologist said:

 

what do you mean with non quickset 2836?  This movement is a rapid date change.

 

I have used a 1570 movement from a genuine 1500 Date Rolex as a donor in a 18k gold Turnograph and was left with a nice SS case.

 

I got a lower beat eta 2783 to fit inside the 1500 case and worked well.  Th beat rate isn't exactly ideal for this vintage but it was a good stem alignment match. It is important that the height of the movement and the stem hole line up with the case.  If you are using a genuine 1601 case, this is the 36mm version of the Date 1500 which used the same 1570 movement, so I would be inclined to wager on a 2783 to do the trick in your 1601 case. These movements are very well priced on ebay and in my opinion also very under rated.  I actually like it better than both 2824 and 2836 as it is the older school eta. I am not sure if a 2836 movement would fit in a 1601 case even though it is approximately the same thickness as the 2783.  Main concern is the stem lining position, but in the even that it would, it would  be a higher beat which would not really blend in with the style of watch. It would be very much like trying to fit a sapphire crystal on a 5512 milsub. Good luck!!

 

Thank you for the reply!

What I meant was is there any differences between a non quickdate and a quick date case.

I just have no clue if a non quick date requires special case or not....

 

And thank you for the extra info on the movement. I think 2783 is better like you said in terms of bph. The problem is I already found hands, a case, basically almost everything for 2836 (guess maybe because it's easier to find).

 

Now I'm trying to learn how to clip the feet of dial, the adapter / movement ring....  so hopeless

[horologist]

1 hour ago, sukiv said:

 

What I meant was is there any differences between a non quickdate and a quick date case.

 

 

Its a first to me.  I remember that the omega 562 is a non quick set and was 0.05mm shorter than the quickset omega 565 which I recall fitted in both of my omega cases that had same reference number 166.010.  I suppose the same could be extrapolated with the rolex cases

1 hour ago, sukiv said:

 

Now I'm trying to learn how to clip the feet of dial, the adapter / movement ring....  so hopeless

 

The dial feet should just break off by gently rotating them with small pliers.  It is soldering new ones that is the challenge.  Dial dots are hopeless as they seem to move with time!!!  Makes me even more hopeless!!!!!LOL!!!