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My first oyster project, a 1016 JMB case


lubusssster

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hello, this is my first oyster project 😅
these are the pieces that I have compiled, they are adjusted in budget but I think it can look good...

first assembly without crown because the stem is very long and I have to cut it
I had trouble putting the needles (my eyes get worse with age ) Also leave without putting the screws that hold the movement to the box ...

 

any advice is welcome

mural.jpg

IMG_20181019_171327.jpg

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1 hour ago, alligoat said:

Dial interesante, ¿de dónde sacaste eso? 

Parece que estás listo para un par de gafas de lectura. Yo uso 3.50s para el trabajo del reloj, 1.75s para la lectura. Pero empecé a usar lectores cuando tenía 42 años.

thank you very much, the dial is from Helenarou (all the pieces are bought in 2014).

I bought a watchmaker's glasses with led light and graduation from +1 to +3.5.
the next assembly of a rejoj I will realize it more comfortably :)

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Typical for a 1016 is an oyster, but all three will work- rivet is early, oyster later and jubilee is the most rare. Rafflesdials is fine for bracelets

Mag for watchmakers can run up to 10x. 3.5x might not be strong enough for really close work. 

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2 hours ago, alligoat said:

Typical for a 1016 is an oyster, but all three will work- rivet is early, oyster later and jubilee is the most rare. Rafflesdials is fine for bracelets

Mag for watchmakers can run up to 10x. 3.5x might not be strong enough for really close work. 

my dial is "only Swiss" from the transition period 1964/65 for this date the correct bracelet would be a Rivet or a Jubilee (if I'm not wrong)

to the glasses with light you can add lenses with more magnification.

thank you very much for your help

1 hour ago, tomhorn said:

I used Mary's 7836 with WSO 580's on mine.

Your work is spectacular! I like all three oysters 😍
Who is Mary's? WSO I think it's an ebay store
thank you very much for your help.

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I have had good luck with '580' hoods from WSO except for a couple of the soldered tubes that came loose.  I was using a set with a Mary folded bracelet and after the tubes came loose I removed the tubes and installed the hoods without them.  Seems to work Ok.  A little bit floppy but Ok. 

The tubes might have come loose because of misalignment of the tubes and holes in the lugs.  Besides that, I doubt the solder joints are very strong to begin with.

 

My WSO 580 hoods will fit a cartel '5513' or a JMB '1016' with very little detailing.  This may be because of not having the internal tubes.

Try the hoods and spring bars without a bracelet to see if the hoods are a good fit with the case.  Sometimes they need a little bending or filing.

If you get the spring bars in the dead end holes in a JMB '1016' case with WSO 580 type hoods, you are in Deep Sheet.   :snorkel:

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Do you think the tubes are soldered into place or bonded? I have a set of genuine 580 endlinks and I have dislodged one of the tubes. I like to have yhe tubes really tight on the springbar because I am allergic to rattling!

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I have had good luck with '580' hoods from WSO except for a couple of the soldered tubes that came loose.  I was using a set with a Mary folded bracelet and after the tubes came loose I removed the tubes and installed the hoods without them.  Seems to work Ok.  A little bit floppy but Ok. 
The tubes might have come loose because of misalignment of the tubes and holes in the lugs.  Besides that, I doubt the solder joints are very strong to begin with.
 
My WSO 580 hoods will fit a cartel '5513' or a JMB '1016' with very little detailing.  This may be because of not having the internal tubes.
Try the hoods and spring bars without a bracelet to see if the hoods are a good fit with the case.  Sometimes they need a little bending or filing.
If you get the spring bars in the dead end holes in a JMB '1016' case with WSO 580 type hoods, you are in Deep Sheet.   :snorkel:


Dead end holes should be filled with some silver solder or "metal" 2 compnents glue.
When cooled/dried just file/sand the excess and that's all.
I do that every time I drill lugs on a case so that there's no risk of having a springbar stucked in place.

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

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6 hours ago, manodeoro said:


 

 


Dead end holes should be filled with some silver solder or "metal" 2 compnents glue.
When cooled/dried just file/sand the excess and that's all.
I do that every time I drill lugs on a case so that there's no risk of having a springbar stucked in place.

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
 

 

Sorry but I can't find how to edit my post so I quote myself :tongue:

 

Here is a close pic of a lug of my 5500 Air-King where one can easily see how the dead-end hole has been filled.

Hence no more "stucked up spring bar" problem.

 

k0zBK.jpg

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8 hours ago, lubusssster said:

I've decided on a rivet bracelet
I have asked Riyi for a rivet bracelet, it comes with the end link 455,
I have to get a 580 endlink so it fits well?

If you're asking me, I bought a set of WSO 455's as well. The 580's fit better with the case I used (gen 16014) and allowed for the Aussie springbars which I believe were a bit thicker.

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18 minutes ago, tomhorn said:

If you're asking me, I bought a set of WSO 455's as well. The 580's fit better with the case I used (gen 16014) and allowed for the Aussie springbars which I believe were a bit thicker.

I have asked WSO the 580, when the bracelet arrives and in the final link we will see if there are problems.

Edited by lubusssster
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