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New 16610 & 116610 today.. what you think?


Guest SharkfactorII

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Guest SharkfactorII

Just got both of these absolute beauties today! 

I'm very pleased, the 16610 is stunning, maybe I'll do the date wheel and a better clasp.. the 116610 I simply cannot fault in any way.. you guys know the watches, I would be interested to hear what you think of them both?

 

 

 

 

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Edited by SharkfactorII
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Guest SharkfactorII

Thanks guys. The 16610 is a JF. It came from Andrew/Trustytime. I'm not sure which version it is (v1, v2 or v3?) but it wasn't the first one he offered me, I rejected the first one because it looked a different watch from the pics on the website. He said it was the latest version (I rejected) then showed me the one I have here..so I don't know if it's the latest or a slightly older piece but I do know it's better than the 1st one he offered me..

 

The one with 15 date I rejected, the 27 date is the watch I bought. Note the rehaut and crown guards, 15 has a wok and little stumps, 27 much better..

 

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..also rejected because one crown guard was thinker than the other.

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"15 has a wok and little stumps, 27 much better.."

 

I believe you made the right choice.

The '15 date' watch is not too hot imho.  It reminds me of the old D320840 (16610) aka 'fake noobmariner' that I mentioned in another post a few days ago.  The main difference I can see between the '15 date' watch and the D320840 is the D320 had better crown guards. 

 

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Guest SharkfactorII

I think maybe I ended up with the older version JF (V2). He told me the 15 watch was the latest. I'm pleased regardless. 

 

The bezel on the 16610 is very sloppy and loose, is there anything I can do to tighten it? 

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I think maybe I ended up with the older version JF (V2). He told me the 15 watch was the latest. I'm pleased regardless. 
 
The bezel on the 16610 is very sloppy and loose, is there anything I can do to tighten it? 
Nice watches and ... 5 digits rules
If your bezel is loose you just pop it off using a watch knife (protect your watch before - there is topics here and on you tube) then you take the tension spring (flat stainless steel ring) that sits on the retaining ring and bend it a little more than it already is, put it back on the retaining ring and clip the bezel back.
If after that your bezel is still loose bend the tension spring a little more.
If the bezel is stuck up just unbend the tension spring a little ... etc

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

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Guest SharkfactorII

Thanks for this. The bezel popped off ok. I took the opportunity to polish all the burrs from from the bezel ring with 2500 grit paper and finished it properly with a cape cop cloth as it was very jaggy, now wonderfully smooth and shiny.

 

I bent the ring a little more, and again a little more, however there is still around 30 seconds of play in the bezel and there it's still a sloppy fit. An aftermarket bezel, ring and click lever should fit ok, should it?

 

Thanks 

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Guest SharkfactorII

Thank you for your help with this.. pics below. 

 

Note, I have since flattened out the ring and not there is less up/down play.. but im still getting left/right play of around 30 seconds. The reason I think is the gap in the teeth and the lever..as per my attached drawing.

 

There must be a fix for this? 

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Thank you for your help with this.. pics below. 
 
Note, I have since flattened out the ring and not there is less up/down play.. but im still getting left/right play of around 30 seconds. The reason I think is the gap in the teeth and the lever..as per my attached drawing.
 
There must be a fix for this? 
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I think you're problem is almost solved.
You just have to bend the click spring a little (just a little !!!).
I'm on breakfast now but I'll post a sketch as soon as I can.

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you want even more exact you'll need a TC V7 Extreme bezel or Genuine. A contributing factor is the shape of the "steps".

A genuine is almost upsidedown V-shaped while the reps are a bit more upsidedown U-shaped.

 

TC wrote an article about it that the he hired someone to finish the scallops by hand since automatic tooling equipment couldn't make them V-shaped enough.

 

I added a genuine bezel to get the extra stiff/rigid feel… Worth 700EUR? Well a crazy franken is a crazy franken. Mine is has everything but midcase and bracelet is gen.

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Guest SharkfactorII

Now sorted this, bezel feels much better.

 

Replica's must be getting really good now - it's been a while now, nobody noticed that the 116610 pictured above is actually a genuine Rolex. 

 

This watch arrived the very same day as the JF16610, can you believe it? I was on a waiting list at the local AD for a new Submariner and had no idea when it would come, some folk are waiting months/years for this model, so I ordered the JF to wear in the meantime. The same day the JF arrived, the AD called to say my new 116610 was in. Unbelievable, but true! Pictured above and below on day one, still with some of the stickers on (the AD had me remove the rest of them in the shop and they kept the warranty card too).

 

 

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Edited by SharkfactorII
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That 16610 is very good rep. Date font, pearl and crown position are still screwed though. And the SELs and lugs will never look 100% no matter how much the factories try. This is among the best I've seen though. Also the silky feel of the gen bracelet can't quite be achieved.

 

The bracelet edges should be polished to mirror finish. I don't know if that's still the issue but I had to polish them myself (for my WM9 v2).

 

I have gen 16610 and WM9 v2.

 

All in all that's a GREAT rep and as a watch it's SO much better looking than its successor 6-digit. Realistically, it can't get much better than that. Cheers.

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Guest SharkfactorII
On 1/8/2019 at 9:50 AM, By-Tor said:

That 16610 is very good rep. Date font, pearl and crown position are still screwed though. And the SELs and lugs will never look 100% no matter how much the factories try. This is among the best I've seen though. Also the silky feel of the gen bracelet can't quite be achieved.

 

The bracelet edges should be polished to mirror finish. I don't know if that's still the issue but I had to polish them myself (for my WM9 v2).

 

 

Thanks for your comments. The bracelet edges on a genuine 16610 are brushed. They are polished on the 116610 and also they're polished on a 16600 Sea-Dweller but not a 16610. The date font and the insert I can replace, but the crown is not a good copy, it's poor. You say it's in the wrong position? I know it screws to close to the case.. It is a fantastic rep though.

 

The bracelet links on the JF feel really good but the clasp lets it down it's very thin metal and cheap feeling (yes we know the gen is cheap feeling too but this is very cheap/bad). The bracelet overall though is poor quality - look what happened, it just fell off my wrist yesterday! I reached out to Andrew, $95 for a new one he says.. I don't think I want to buy another of those one, can you recommend a better (than a JF) bracelet anyone?

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Edited by SharkfactorII
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  • 2 weeks later...

I checked and you're right. But they come both ways. My K-serial 16610 Sub has polished bracelet edges. I don't know if that has been done by RSC but they're definitely polished.

 

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=320814

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Both timepieces are spectacular!!!

 

regardless of how nice the late 116610 is, I always choose the 16610!  The current model just does not enchant me!  Personal choice

 

intersestingly, I had a chance to buy a new 16610 for US$5000 from David SW back in 2010/2011 and I foolishly passed as I was contemplating on the 116610.  I ended up with nothing as the later model just did not do it for me.  Have never forgiven myself!  Look what they sell for now;

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-NOS-Submariner-16610-Steel-Green-Kermit-Watch-Box-Tags-M-16610LV/143091787772?hash=item2150ef67fc:g:V9AAAOSw5bxcPf0i

 

and that is the cheapest that I have ever seen them listed whether it has a black or green bezel insert 

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