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Phong case not fitting gen movement !!?


altesporsche

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Hey fellas, 

 

anyone try to fit a gen 1570 into a Phong 1655 case ? 

 

Just breifly did did a few days ago when I was home for a brief few hours lol 

 

but it didn’t seem to fit, the movement seemed to reach too far back (by a slight amount) to not allow the case screws to keep the movement in there. 

 

Using a gen dial plate etc.. so I figured it would fit. 

 

Anyone have this happen in the past ? 

 

 

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Once had a vietnam 6265 case which didn‘t fit the v72..had to buy a new one since machining would have been too much work..i think if you are unlucky it is possible that a „gen spec“ case has too high tolerances and the movement doesn‘t fit unfortunately. Maybe you can machine it tho or get a refund from phong. Good luck mate


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14 hours ago, altesporsche said:

Yea that’s the problem, I bought it from someone else. 

 

If i machine it, it will only likely be .25mm or less to make it work. 

 

Its just odd for a “gen spec” case set lol arrr !! My luck. 

 

 

I've actually had the exact same issue on my 6538 case from Ruby taking a FEF390. I don't find it too egregious since very few Tudor subs were put into 6538 cases and it's possible that the movements were specially machined. 

 

I think just shaving down the slots where the movement tabs screw in should solve the problem.. kinda kills the resale value of the movement though.

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This is not much help but I have a Phong 1655 case from 6 or 7 years back that has scratches above the groove where the casing screws go.  It had a 1575GMT movement before I got it so maybe the previous owner had trouble fitting the GMT movement in the case.  The movement I have for it is not together so I can not try it in the case.

 

The movement is held tight in genuine 1655 cases (and hopefully 'oem spec' cases) by two flanged 'casing screws' that fit in the groove around the inside of the case.  The movement is held tight in the case by backing the screws out against the upper (case back) side of the groove rather than tightening them.  If you tighten the screws, they just bottom out against the movement plate and the movement flops around when the crown is not screwed down.

 

There is a notch in the groove on most cases across from the case tube where one casing screw will drop down into the groove.  At the same time the opposite screw will drop down on the case tube side where there is a small cutout at the case tube.  After putting the movement in the case, turn the movement to line the stem up, install the stem, screw the crown down to center the stem in the case tube, and 'loosen' the casing screws to tighten the movement in place.

 

On MBK cases and some others that are not exactly oem spec...I use case clamps if the casing screws are too tight in the groove because the movement mounts a hair too high or too low.  Thinning the flanges on the casing screws or using tapered [censored] screws is another option.  Never had much luck with 'half head' casing screws where there is only half of a [censored] on the screws.  They are made for cases without cutouts for the casing screws and sometimes the only option.

Note:  If the casing screws are too tight against the top (case back side) of the groove...forcing the movement to turn may scrape paint off the edge of the dial or break the dial feet loose from the dial.

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I know exactly what you are taking about automatico, that’s exactly the situation here. The case screws don’t screw in enough to clear and allow the movement to clock into place then unscrew to hold the case. 

 

Ill give it another go when I get gone in a few days and take some photos, but it looks like the grove needs to be machined a bit to use clamps correctly. 

 

 

On 1/3/2019 at 3:53 AM, jimcon11 said:

I've actually had the exact same issue on my 6538 case from Ruby taking a FEF390. I don't find it too egregious since very few Tudor subs were put into 6538 cases and it's possible that the movements were specially machined. 

 

I think just shaving down the slots where the movement tabs screw in should solve the problem.. kinda kills the resale value of the movement though.

Yea I’m not shaving the movement at all lol the 1575s are In the $3k range now and sparse, I’d rather hack a case up than a movement that’s hard to replace. 

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Wonder why  f l a n g e  is censored and flanged is not?

 

f l a n g e

1...A projecting rim, collar, or ring on a shaft, pipe, machine housing, etc., cast or formed to give additional strength, stiffness, or supporting area, or to provide a place for the attachment of other objects.

2...A broad ridge or pair of ridges projecting from the edge of a rolled metal shape generally at right angles, in order to strengthen or stiffen it.

3...A ring or collar, usually provided with holes for bolts, and screwed or welded over the end of a tube or pipe to permit other objects to be attached to it.

From Dictionary.com

 

Must be a cuss word.

...in another world.  :animal_rooster:

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5 hours ago, automatico said:

Wonder why  f l a n g e  is censored and flanged is not?

 

f l a n g e

1...A projecting rim, collar, or ring on a shaft, pipe, machine housing, etc., cast or formed to give additional strength, stiffness, or supporting area, or to provide a place for the attachment of other objects.

2...A broad ridge or pair of ridges projecting from the edge of a rolled metal shape generally at right angles, in order to strengthen or stiffen it.

3...A ring or collar, usually provided with holes for bolts, and screwed or welded over the end of a tube or pipe to permit other objects to be attached to it.

From Dictionary.com

 

Must be a cuss word.

...in another world.  :animal_rooster:

Flan-nge is another word in the urban dictionary here in the UK for a ladies err...thingy down below;)

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