Watch Suitability

[TeeJay]

A while back Ethan made comments about what watches were best suited to certain situations, and I remember a few other members expressed an interest in a 'guide' of the "do's" and "don'ts" of watch wearing. Is there any possibility of such a guide being written?

[Lyndonville]

A while back Ethan made comments about what watches were best suited to certain situations, and I remember a few other members expressed an interest in a 'guide' of the "do's" and "don'ts" of watch wearing. Is there any possibility of such a guide being written?

Would you wear a big bulky watch to a black tie affair? Start from there and work backwards and you'll have your answer.

[TeeJay]

Would you wear a big bulky watch to a black tie affair? Start from there and work backwards and you'll have your answer.

If only it were that simple... Ethan said at the time, that it was considered bad ettiquete to even wear a watch at any kind of formal gathering. (As it suggests that the guest has more important places to be, or that time is more important than the gathering) It was also suggested that it was considered bad form to wear an SS bracelet in a business environment, and that leather straps should be worn instead.

Personally, I've always tried to match the strap of my watch (if leather) to my shoes and belt, but if there are any other 'hard and fast' rules of watch ettiquete, I for one, would love to hear them, as I'm sure would the others who commented on the original thread

[Chronus]

For a wedding you should wear something like a PAM187 or PAM194, Omega Railmaster XXL, a U-Boat, Breitling Avenger Seawolf, Corum Bubble, or especially something like a Graham Chronofighter - that crown guard is lovely.

For the casual occasion, such as a pick-up basketball game, I'd recommend a Patek Philippe Calatrava, or an AP Royal Oak. Perhaps an A & L would be appropriate too.

Hope that helps everyone!

[Craytonic]

If only it were that simple... Ethan said at the time, that it was considered bad ettiquete to even wear a watch at any kind of formal gathering. (As it suggests that the guest has more important places to be, or that time is more important than the gathering) It was also suggested that it was considered bad form to wear an SS bracelet in a business environment, and that leather straps should be worn instead.

Personally, I've always tried to match the strap of my watch (if leather) to my shoes and belt, but if there are any other 'hard and fast' rules of watch ettiquete, I for one, would love to hear them, as I'm sure would the others who commented on the original thread

I don't think it is ever bad ettiquette to wear a small, dressy watch. A watch and cufflinks are about the only jewelry a man can wear. It doesn't imply anything except you want to be there on time so you wear a watch to know when to show up.

Sports watch (with ss bracelets) are for sports - not business. That said, I think a cartier tank would be fine for work since it is a little on the dressy / small side.

Keep it small with a suit so it fits under the sleeve and jacket. Try to keep the leather matching, although I would see more trouble with a brown band than a black one.

Don't wear a leather or alligator band to a PETA fundraiser.

[freddy333]

According to most authorities on proper dress, this is a good guide

Large or colorful sports watches (think Panerai or Pepsi GMT) should be worn with sports clothes. Dangling a platinum vintage Patek pocketwatch from the pocket of your leather or denim jacket would look silly, as would wearing an AP ROO with a midnight blue dinner jacket.

Moderate sized non-sports watches (think Patek Calatrava or DateJust) can be work with just about anything except formalwear. If you have the panach

[TeeJay]

I don't think it is ever bad ettiquette to wear a small, dressy watch. A watch and cufflinks are about the only jewelry a man can wear. It doesn't imply anything except you want to be there on time so you wear a watch to know when to show up.

Sports watch (with ss bracelets) are for sports - not business. That said, I think a cartier tank would be fine for work since it is a little on the dressy / small side.

Keep it small with a suit so it fits under the sleeve and jacket. Try to keep the leather matching, although I would see more trouble with a brown band than a black one.

Don't wear a leather or alligator band to a PETA fundraiser.

Personally, I agree with you, but Ethan was very clear that in some instances, although people nowadays might well accept (and expect) people to wear a watch, the traditional ettiquete was to not wear one. It was those kind of rules that I'd be interested in reading up on. Also, I quite agree, brown straps can be very hard to match.

[dec]

It depends a lot where you live and who you mix with... open your eyes!

Where I am you still wouldn't dare wear a sports watch to work. That'll change.

My dad thought that only poor people wore steel watches.

My grandad considered wedding rings to be jewellery and therefore only for women.

[Raijor]

Style rules be damned - wear what ever you want when ever you want - do it with confidence and you will pull it off.

[TeeJay]

It depends a lot where you live and who you mix with... open your eyes!

Where I am you still wouldn't dare wear a sports watch to work. That'll change.

My dad thought that only poor people wore steel watches.

My grandad considered wedding rings to be jewellery and therefore only for women.

Not so easy to do when you are going to be mixing with a different group of people (say at a wedding or some kind of function), as it'd then be too late. Better to know first and make the right selection rather than make a mistake and look like an 'out of place' bumpkin

[jeff g]

Etiquette be damned.

Formal rules of how to dress, and act, for that matter, are rules that are made to be broken.

Avant Garde should be viewed as more acceptable than rules against it.

Wearing a beautiful watch (which of course is in the eye of the beholder) should be a decision based soley on what is beautiful for you, not 'them'.

I own a Cartier Tank Francias, and I wear it with SS and or black alligator WHENEVER I feel like it. The ONLY reason not to wear a sport watch with a suit is because it doesn't fit under a long sleeve shirt...NOT because Joe Blow would think it unacceptable. Screw that guy.

[Craytonic]

Personally, I agree with you, but Ethan was very clear that in some instances, although people nowadays might well accept (and expect) people to wear a watch, the traditional ettiquete was to not wear one. It was those kind of rules that I'd be interested in reading up on. Also, I quite agree, brown straps can be very hard to match.

I can see how with the most formal vest and tails you would only consider a pocket watch "appropriate" but I would consider that a dated perspective.

[Ethan]

A while back Ethan made comments about what watches were best suited to certain situations, and I remember a few other members expressed an interest in a 'guide' of the "do's" and "don'ts" of watch wearing. Is there any possibility of such a guide being written?

That original thread sparked A TON of debate; some interesting, some just plain stupid. Afterwards, I was blown away by the number of members who PMd me expressing their interest in a guide on watches, etiquette, and the psychology of dress. I was hesitant, as people tend to respond badly to being 'told' what they should and should not wear in specific events, but I think as long as I make clear that no one's telling anyone what they can and can't do (it's just etiquette; just a suggestion), I think we can keep it positive.

Here's the thing about etiquette and class: you don't have to have or project either if you don't want to. You wanna wear a green Mohawk to work, and sit in a board meeting with a chain running from your lip to your nose, you go right ahead. But you are absolutely deluded if you think that either won't have any impact on the impression others have of you. Of course, if this describes you, you probably don't care.

I'll be putting this guide together as a photo-tutorial of sorts in May. I'll use my own collection as examples; I've got some fairly unique reps, and all are custom-strapped by Aaron, so should be interesting on that level alone. If you feel strongly that there is no such thing as etiquette, no such thing as the psychology of dress, and no connection between either and the kind of watch you choose to wear, I'd suggest you simply not waste your time reading the guide. There's plenty of great threads here that will likely interest you more; this will be for those who do have an interest in the above.

And that should be fine, no? Afterall, you don't see those who hate Pannies posting "Pannies Suck" responses in the Panerai forum - they just spend their time elsewhere.

[Craytonic]

Etiquette be damned.

Formal rules of how to dress, and act, for that matter, are rules that are made to be broken.

Avant Garde should be viewed as more acceptable than rules against it.

Wearing a beautiful watch (which of course is in the eye of the beholder) should be a decision based soley on what is beautiful for you, not 'them'.

I own a Cartier Tank Francias, and I wear it with SS and or black alligator WHENEVER I feel like it. The ONLY reason not to wear a sport watch with a suit is because it doesn't fit under a long sleeve shirt...NOT because Joe Blow would think it unacceptable. [censored] that guy.

I am a GUEST at another person's wedding I will dress as they desire and not break the mold. The attention should be on them, not me. Certain things come with being a guest, it is a matter of respect, among others.

[Polynomial]

Would you wear a big bulky watch to a black tie affair? Start from there and work backwards and you'll have your answer.

Yes, ... 45mm PO, 217/127, it all depends on how big your wrists/hands are

[TeeJay]

That original thread sparked A TON of debate; some interesting, some just plain stupid. Afterwards, I was blown away by the number of members who PMd me expressing their interest in a guide on watches, etiquette, and the psychology of dress. I was hesitant, as people tend to respond badly to being 'told' what they should and should not wear in specific events, but I think as long as I make clear that no one's telling anyone what they can and can't do (it's just etiquette; just a suggestion), I think we can keep it positive.

Here's the thing about etiquette and class: you don't have to have or project either if you don't want to. You wanna wear a green Mohawk to work, and sit in a board meeting with a chain running from your lip to your nose, you go right ahead. But you are absolutely deluded if you think that either won't have any impact on the impression others have of you. Of course, if this describes you, you probably don't care.

I'll be putting this guide together as a photo-tutorial of sorts in May. I'll use my own collection as examples; I've got some fairly unique reps, and all are custom-strapped by Aaron, so should be interesting on that level alone. If you feel strongly that there is no such thing as etiquette, no such thing as the psychology of dress, and no connection between either and the kind of watch you choose to wear, I'd suggest you simply not waste your time reading the guide. There's plenty of great threads here that will likely interest you more; this will be for those who do have an interest in the above.

And that should be fine, no? Afterall, you don't see those who hate Pannies posting "Pannies Suck" responses in the Panerai forum - they just spend their time elsewhere.

That's fantastic, I'll look forward to the guide when it is completed As you say, the people who feel it does not apply to them would not care either way, but for some reason feel everyone else should feel the same as them... Personally, I wear what I want, but, I understand that in certain situations, it is necessary to allow codes and conventions to supercede personal tastes, and I for one, would be very interested to find out what those codes and conventions are

I am a GUEST at another person's wedding I will dress as they desire and not break the mold. The attention should be on them, not me. Certain things come with being a guest, it is a matter of respect, among others.

Absolutely. Like I just said to Ethan, there are times when codes and conventions, and good manners and respect for a host mean following those codes and conventions rather than personal choices

[jkerouac]

For a wedding you should wear something like a PAM187 or PAM194, Omega Railmaster XXL, a U-Boat, Breitling Avenger Seawolf, Corum Bubble, or especially something like a Graham Chronofighter - that crown guard is lovely.

For the casual occasion, such as a pick-up basketball game, I'd recommend a Patek Philippe Calatrava, or an AP Royal Oak. Perhaps an A & L would be appropriate too.

Hope that helps everyone!

Thanks. I've memorized those guidelines and recommend that everyone else should do the same.

[Craytonic]

Sounds interesting. I have been meaning to snap a wrist shot before I go out at night sometimes but am always running late.

[Jawo]

Just watch movies. There must be analysts that dress dudes in the movies. James Bond always looks cool. Look at the guys in chick flick movies. The guys are dressed to please. I don't think there is a right or wrong as long as you get admiration for your selection. It's kinda like asking what type of tie you should wear to a formal event. Solid or striped.

[kanerich]

Etiquette be damned.

Formal rules of how to dress, and act, for that matter, are rules that are made to be broken.

Avant Garde should be viewed as more acceptable than rules against it.

Wearing a beautiful watch (which of course is in the eye of the beholder) should be a decision based soley on what is beautiful for you, not 'them'.

I own a Cartier Tank Francias, and I wear it with SS and or black alligator WHENEVER I feel like it. The ONLY reason not to wear a sport watch with a suit is because it doesn't fit under a long sleeve shirt...NOT because Joe Blow would think it unacceptable. Screw that guy.

The original poster didn't ask about what individual people feel comfortable about doing, he asked if people knew what established conventions were, which is a completely different question. Your response is like saying "f&ck the law, the man sucks, Nobody can tell me what to do!" in response to a question about customs regulations in X country. Okay you're cool, but what did that really have to do with the original question?

People think Picasso was a crazy avant-garde painter, but a lot of them don't know that he was classically trained, won the French grand prix and studied in Italy. It was after he mastered the fundamentals that he developed his own style. You don't have follow the rules, but you're always better off knowing what they are, and I appreciate this attempt to collect interesting information.

[Tim]

A watch and cufflinks are about the only jewelry a man can wear.

Oh really?

Gold Bracelet

Ringer Rings

Ear Ring(s)

....and that is only the stuff you can see!

/Tim

[phaedo]

Hey, if James Bond can pull off wearing a 45mm PO with a tux, why can't I?

[Craytonic]

Oh really?

Gold Bracelet

Ringer Rings

Ear Ring(s)

....and that is only the stuff you can see!

/Tim

gotta be awkward at the airport metal detector.

[longshot]

personally i find the history and custom of menswear and formal wear interesting. i am extremely casual everyday at work, but i do own three (vintage) dinner jackets and formal trousers and the appropriate accessories; black patent leather pumps and a pair of black sharkskin seamless bal oxfords, wing and turned down collar shirts, bow ties (that tie, anything else is an abomination), suspenders, cummerbund and a terrific set of 19th century 18k rose gold and black onyx cuff links and studs.

prior to 1860 or so mens formal wear was black tie and tails or for more formal occasions white tie and tails. with boiled stiff fronted shirts and heavily constructed tight fitting tail coats. then henry poole of saville row made a short much less constructed and comfortable jacket (similar to a smoking jacket) for the prince of wales. who evidently could get away with it an american (mr james potter of new york) visited the prince in 1886 and was so impressed he had mr. poole run him up one and caused quite the scandal when he wore this 'casual' jacket to an event at the tuxedo club in new york. hence the name in the us.

until the last few decades when hollywood types corrupted it, the tuxedo was a very simple look. a single breasted jacket with a shawl or peak lapel (notched lapels are for suit coats) and NO vents. vents are appropriate for hacking or hunting jackets to be worn seated on a horse, not a dinner jacket. a white turned down collar shirt with a pleated placket, and french cuffs, worn with decorative studs. black cummerbund (pleats UP with a small pocket to hold your theater or opera tickets), black bow tie, suspenders (black, white or something like silver to be flashy). black pleated trousers with a satin stripe (a military touch), NEVER cuffed. country trousers are cuffed because of the mud. black silk stocking and black patent leather pumps/slippers (usually with a grosgrain bow) or black seamless oxfords. that was it. the only acceptable jewelry besides studs and cuff links was a wedding band and a school or military academy ring. no watch.

if you look films from the 20's, 30's and 40's and even into the 50's you see these rules followed. the secret to dressing well was all in the details. fred astaire being a perfect example. he knew the rules and followed them, but always bent them a tiny bit. he could and still look great because he knew them

the only people who call it a 'tux' are those who rent them, and they invariably look like it too

[TeeJay]

Just watch movies. There must be analysts that dress dudes in the movies. James Bond always looks cool. Look at the guys in chick flick movies. The guys are dressed to please. I don't think there is a right or wrong as long as you get admiration for your selection. It's kinda like asking what type of tie you should wear to a formal event. Solid or striped.

Indeed, but who is to say that these 'wardrobe experts' are actually correct with what they put together, or are simply putting together what they think looks good on camera rather than actually following established codes and conventions. As for Bond, I'll get to him in a minute...

The original poster didn't ask about what individual people feel comfortable about doing, he asked if people knew what established conventions were, which is a completely different question. Your response is like saying "f&ck the law, the man sucks, Nobody can tell me what to do!" in response to a question about customs regulations in X country. Okay you're cool, but what did that really have to do with the original question?

People think Picasso was a crazy avant-garde painter, but a lot of them don't know that he was classically trained, won the French grand prix and studied in Italy. It was after he mastered the fundamentals that he developed his own style. You don't have follow the rules, but you're always better off knowing what they are, and I appreciate this attempt to collect interesting information.

That was my point precicely, thank you.

Hey, if James Bond can pull off wearing a 45mm PO with a tux, why can't I?

Because Bond is not someone who enjoys dressing formally (as Vesper pointed out in Casino Royale) He is not a truly suave person, but really a 'thug in a tux'. Wearing a diver's watch with formal wear is probably his way of putting two fingers up to the 'establishment'.

Also, Bond never actually wore the 45mm PO with the dinner jacket.. Even on the train to Montenegro, he was wearing the SMP...