Vintage 5513 Project?

[bbell6]

Disclaimer I am a complete novice, I've never even taken the back off a watch. So this is definitely a situation where I'm just jumping in to the deep end of the pool and I'm either going to sink or swim. Any assitance would be greatly appreciated. I'll apologize upfront for the dumb questions that I'm sure I'll ask.

I recently purchased a replacement case off of ebay. It may or may not be any good. I'd like to get people's opinion as to whether this case is worth fooling with or whether I should just scrap it. It is supposed to be for a 5513 and was built to hold a 1520 or 1570. My thoughts are that I would start with an ETA movement and possibly one day upgrade to a rolex movement.

In addition to your opinions on the case, I'd also like some recommendations on necessary tools. I'm not so worried about cost as I am interested in quality. If I can make this first project work, I'll probably build other watches and would rather have good tools upfront rather than having to repurchase later because I went cheap to begin with.

[eunomians]

There are various reps that are fairly decent to begin with.

If you are not worried about "cost", then I suggest you sell the case kit you purchased...

And buy a 70s 5513,

Then take a deep breath.

Purchase a Mil-Sub bezel insert, redial the dial with a "T" and change the hands with Sword hands.

You can also have bars welded in as permanent springbars.

You will have a franken of sorts in the end.

I have owned an OEM 5513 for many years and I would never do this to the watch as it is wholly perfect IMHO.

But you can do it to your 5513.

For tools, you will need to buy the best quality items that you can: buy the expensive Swiss tools. Don't chump out and buy Made In China/India crap. Those cheapo tools won't even make it through your first project! But the Swiss versions, despite costing more, should last you a long time. Remember the old adage: u get what u pay for in life.

- caseback opener

- screwdriver set

- a few tweezers & pliers

- toothpicks

- movement holder

- crystal remover

- hand setting tool

- hand removing tool

- tissue paper

- various loupes

- can of air to remove dust

- lens cleaning silk/nylon cloth

- Rolex bezel spring remover

- Rolex crystal press

- a lotta patience and steady hands

Cheers

[cjeffers58]

If you want to scrap it, shoot me a pm when you do...

[bbell6]

Eunomians,

When I was referring to "cost" not being an issue, I was referring to the tools. Meaning that I wanted to purchase high quality tools as you were suggesting. Not that cost wasn't an issue with regards to the watch. I'm going to have to agree with you on altering a 5513. If I buy a genuine 5513, I won't screw with it.

I was just wanting to play with building a replica. I bought the replacement case without really thinking it through. I logged on to ebay and there were two minutes left and it looked like a good price (based on what I'd seen others go for - but I really didn't know what I was buying). I got it for $335. I was just wondering if I should try to build a replica with it or buy an MBW and start from there. Or, maybe buy one of the MBW military 5513's that I saw in TTK's photobucket for the group buy (I think this is a 5517 and I do like that look which I believe you were referring to)

The advantage to using the replacement case (at least from my point of view) is that I could always pop in a rolex movement later if I found a great deal on one. If not, I could just be happy with an ETA. Of course, this is assuming that the replacement case is worth a crap. The bezel doesn't operate the way I would think an original would (I've never seen a 5513 in person - I'm basing my statement on my '94 sub). It moves in both directions and there is no click. It just feels like metal on metal and is extremely stiff. Additionally, the bottom edges of the case and the inside of the lugs are quite sharp.

Hopefully, this post clears up my intentions.

Thanks

[eunomians]

PM sent

[Justasgood]

Eunomians,

When I was referring to "cost" not being an issue, I was referring to the tools. Meaning that I wanted to purchase high quality tools as you were suggesting. Not that cost wasn't an issue with regards to the watch. I'm going to have to agree with you on altering a 5513. If I buy a genuine 5513, I won't screw with it.

I was just wanting to play with building a replica. I bought the replacement case without really thinking it through. I logged on to ebay and there were two minutes left and it looked like a good price (based on what I'd seen others go for - but I really didn't know what I was buying). I got it for $335. I was just wondering if I should try to build a replica with it or buy an MBW and start from there. Or, maybe buy one of the MBW military 5513's that I saw in TTK's photobucket for the group buy (I think this is a 5517 and I do like that look which I believe you were referring to)

The advantage to using the replacement case (at least from my point of view) is that I could always pop in a rolex movement later if I found a great deal on one. If not, I could just be happy with an ETA. Of course, this is assuming that the replacement case is worth a crap. The bezel doesn't operate the way I would think an original would (I've never seen a 5513 in person - I'm basing my statement on my '94 sub). It moves in both directions and there is no click. It just feels like metal on metal and is extremely stiff. Additionally, the bottom edges of the case and the inside of the lugs are quite sharp.

Hopefully, this post clears up my intentions.

Thanks

bbell,

let's wheel and deal over lunch.

Wednesday at the "Bones"

Kurt.

[manuelram16]

I also saw that case on ebay and it looked a REP case to me, I wonder if a Rolex 1520 or 1530 movement would actually fit in there w/orig case clamps, has anybody tried it ?

[bbell6]

I also saw that case on ebay and it looked a REP case to me, I wonder if a Rolex 1520 or 1530 movement would actually fit in there w/orig case clamps, has anybody tried it ?

I don't have a 1520 movement to try. I'm meeting "Justasgood" for lunch today, maybe he will be able to shed some light on the case.

[rag9fx]

Hmmm the marks on the case back look a bit dodgy to me (someone correct me if i am wrong) . Did that bad boy come with a crown... if it didn't the crowns for that tube cost a [censored] load... and the bezel insert looks aftermarket ... is this case advertised to be a Gen replacement ? It will be interesting to see the progress you make with it .

Rob

[bbell6]

Hmmm the marks on the case back look a bit dodgy to me (someone correct me if i am wrong) . Did that bad boy come with a crown... if it didn't the crowns for that tube cost a [censored] load... and the bezel insert looks aftermarket ... is this case advertised to be a Gen replacement ? It will be interesting to see the progress you make with it .

Rob

It came with a Rolex triple locking crown. I haven't taken the crown out of its package yet, incase I decide to sell it. The auction language was as follows:

"You are bidding on a Submariner Replacement Case # 5513

Rolex Movement CAL. # 1530, 1520.

This is includes:

Case (1), Caseback (1), Bezel Stainless (1), Insert Bezel -Black/Silver (1), Crystal # 25-19 (1), Crown (1), & Tube (1)

SOLD AS IS ! ALL SALES ARE FINAL !!!

Thank you for visiting."

The only thing that I suspect is original is the crown (it is still in the package) and possibly the crystal and/or tube. The insert is definitely not original. There are signs that the outer edge had to be filed to make it fit. I'm sure the remaining parts are all aftermarket

[rag9fx]

It came with a Rolex triple locking crown. I haven't taken the crown out of its package yet, incase I decide to sell it. The auction language was as follows:

"You are bidding on a Submariner Replacement Case # 5513

Rolex Movement CAL. # 1530, 1520.

This is includes:

Case (1), Caseback (1), Bezel Stainless (1), Insert Bezel -Black/Silver (1), Crystal # 25-19 (1), Crown (1), & Tube (1)

SOLD AS IS ! ALL SALES ARE FINAL !!!

Thank you for visiting."

The only thing that I suspect is original is the crown (it is still in the package) and possibly the crystal and/or tube. The insert is definitely not original. There are signs that the outer edge had to be filed to make it fit. I'm sure the remaining parts are all aftermarket

Someone Please correct me if i am wrong but that doesn't look like a triplock tube ... therefore a triplock would be incorrect for that tube ... ( not neccesarly wrong for 5513 - the earlier subs had a thick twinlock sans three dots --- well sans dots at all...)

[bbell6]

Someone Please correct me if i am wrong but that doesn't look like a triplock tube ... therefore a triplock would be incorrect for that tube ... ( not neccesarly wrong for 5513 - the earlier subs had a thick twinlock sans three dots --- well sans dots at all...)

It's definitley not a triplock tube.

[thewightstuff]

Its a rep case for sure,there are alot of these about just now and the few ive seen have been poor quality and somewhat incorrect. Everything with it is rep with the only possible exception being the tube and crown. Theres differing opinions re the tube. Mine is that its not gen but a remake. Ive not seen the crowns so cannot comment on them.

Fyi the tube on this is early triplock, introduced 1972 and as such the crown should have three dots. Ive no idea how a gen movement would fit in this though it is advertised as being for this fit.

[bbell6]

Its a rep case for sure,there are alot of these about just now and the few ive seen have been poor quality and somewhat incorrect. Everything with it is rep with the only possible exception being the tube and crown. Theres differing opinions re the tube. Mine is that its not gen but a remake. Ive not seen the crowns so cannot comment on them.

Fyi the tube on this is early triplock, introduced 1972 and as such the crown should have three dots. Ive no idea how a gen movement would fit in this though it is advertised as being for this fit.

I thought all triplocks had an O-ring on the tube (my '94 sub does)? I guess that shows how much I know. The crown package is labeled:

241

24-702-0

T-03

Rolex

Its in a green and white package. From what I can tell without opening package, the crown threads appear to line up with the tube. I tried to take pictures but my camera isn't working.

[freddy333]

I thought all triplocks had an O-ring on the tube (my '94 sub does)? I guess that shows how much I know. The crown package is labeled:

241

24-702-0

T-03

Rolex

Its in a green and white package. From what I can tell without opening package, the crown threads appear to line up with the tube. I tried to take pictures but my camera isn't working.

The labeling looks to be correct for the second generation Triplock, which I think was introduced in 1977. I believe there were a total of three versions of Triplocks used on Daytonas -- 701, 702 and 703, which is the current one. The Triplock should include 3 rubber seals. One fits down around the crown's inner shaft and slides down into the base of the crown. Another fits into the groove on the outside of the tube and the last one fits into the small groove that runs around the inside lip of the crown side of the tube.

[thewightstuff]

There are three crown/tube combinations. 1 twinlock and 2 triplocks. The first triplock had no outer o ring but 2 rings in the tube and one inside the crown. This was introduced in 72. I have the release docs if anyone is interested. There is a possible rev to this model which say a crown tool spline added inside however this is unconfirmed. This triplock was then superceded by the modern version with outer oring. Inside seals remained the same making this in essence quadruple lock. No dots on twinlock crowns, three dots on crowns since

[alligoat]

Interesting. I've never heard of an aftermarket 24-7020 case tube, so I'd have to figure it's gen as is the crown apparently, at least the numerical designation is correct. I agree w/ wightstuff about the case being rep, but you need to open it up and see if it's machined to actually accept a 1500 series movement. I've seen some 1520 and 1530 movements on the bay for $600-700 lately and if you could pick up a dial, you could build a franken for say maybe $1200-1500, which wouldn't be too bad. Oh, and trim the crown guards while you're at it!

[freddy333]

Alligoat -- Here is one of my Swiss-made aftermarket 703 crown tubes (there are 2 seals hidden behind the label)

The shank portion (that screws into the case) is a bit shorter than the OEM Rolex tubes, but otherwise they appear to be the same (thread pitch, inner spline that mates with the Rolex tube tool).

[alligoat]

No doubt, freddy, there are scores of 703 aftermarket crowns and tubes. But 24-7020 tubes and crowns ceased production say around 1980, and were replaced by the current 24-7030 stuff. And a 24-7020 crown won't fit on a 7030 tube and vice versa, although the threads on the case tube which screw into the case are the same on 7020's and 7030's. Hence, Rolex updated lots of 5512-3's and 1680's with the 24-7030 series as a matter of SOP. But you had to do both the crown and the tube.