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Entry level vintage Seadweller (DRSD)


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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

I would like to buy a vintage DRSD. My budget is up to 150$, and thus I am looking for an "entry level" version.

I've searched left and right for information on Entry Level Seadwellers, with not much help. Most topics seem to concentrate on the Noobmariner or MBW SD's, with not much info on budget SD's and especially DRSD's.

I was wondering what people's thoughts are about TTK's recently posted Entry Level Vintage Seadweller. I've posted a photo and the link below for easy reference.

Also, do you have any other suggestions for an entry level vintage DRSD from other dealers?

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...vintage++double

109ROLEXDOUBLEREDSEADWELLER1.jpg

Thanks in advance for your comments,

L

Edited by lukes
Posted

Straight answer value for money , of course a few things can be better like the riveted strap but then agian what can you expect for +/- 90 euro's

I wear it on a Nato.

IMG_1449.jpg

Cats

( proud owner )

Posted

IMO, the only drawback to the TTK DRSD is the movement, but w/ luck it could last a year or two. And maybe you could get it serviced and it would keep on ticking. I just had my original noobmariner serviced and it's doing fine again.

That being said, my preference is still for the eta movement. I bought this DRSD from Paul two years ago back when it was $139. Filed down the crown guards, put in a better pearl, and greased the o-rings. Amazingly, it has a functioning HE valve- just like the original Rolex design. Unfortunately, it's now $189.

http://www.pam111.com/product_info.php?cPa...;products_id=44

Like TTK's entry watch, I noticed this new offering from Paul- the DRSD on a Nato strap w/ the asian 2813 movement. It has a flatter crystal than the eta DRSD and the eta DRSD has a nice bracelet- hollow mid-links, but hey, a budget is a budget and this hobby can get expensive.

http://www.pam111.com/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1823

Posted

With a max budget of $150, I'd buy the asian version for $100 then spend the extra on a good bezel insert and pearl.

Lonnie

Posted

What i forgot to write that this on came from Narikaa and there is no Seadweller He valve etc text on th eback

Cats

Posted (edited)

Hey all,

Thanks for your replies.

@Cats:

I really like the look of this watch on your wrist, with the Nato strap. It just might be enough of a reason to persuade me to buy it.

Don't you find the lum just a bit too yellow though?

@alligoat

Thanks for your suggestions. Paul's ETA offering is really nice, but we're pushing the 200$ level. Unfortunately I would like to stick to the budget, too many other watches to order! :)

@Lonnie

I havent tried modifications yet - from your signature it seems you are quite involved in them. How difficult would it be to change the bezel insert?

@dieselpower

Your "old faithful" thread is quite interesting. Did you manage to change the front glass in the end?

Say the budget was upped to 200$, which ETA DRSD would you suggest?

Finally,

I'm not too worried about the movement, as I already have the Noobmariner from Josh and have had ZERO problems with it in the last 6 months.

I was hoping someone could give us a more detailed comparison with the gen, or at least with the more expensive options (MBW DRSD) and how far off (or how correct :D) this model is.

Thanks again to all!

Edited by lukes
Posted

Not changed the glass yet. Maybe I'll just keep the beaten up look. Sorry to be of no use but I was not really aware that there was much difference between the entry level DRSD's. I must admit I haven't looked at them for 5 years so maybe times have changed but when I was buying they all seemed the same. Adapted sub cases with different dials made to look aged and that was about it! Just for the record it was discovering that the case was an adapted sub case that made me want to buy an MBW. This I did and am awaiting its return from modding in the USA. So be warned, you may very well fall in love with this watch (does a better divers watch exist?) and end up, like I did, shelling out even more cash on an MBW for the sake of the case and its ability to accept genuine parts. If you think about it after modding if I can buy a gen movement I will almost have the genuine article at a fraction of the market value! Its all a question of $ versus desire and that is obviously your call.

Hope this is of some use and that you chose wisely and above all enjoy your watch!

Posted

swapping the bezel insert is easy.. the most you would have to do is sand a little off the bottom and edge so it fits in perfect. Then you just glue it in. There are many tutorials and pictures on how to do this. Its not difficult at all. Its a fun and easy modification.

But i must agree that saving up an extra $50 or so and getting an ETA movement is a much wiser decision. You'll have a much more reliable watch.

Lonnie

Posted
Hey all,

Thanks for your replies.

...

Don't you find the lum just a bit too yellow though?

I thought the same.

Nevertheless there had been at least 5 versions of the DRSD dial in production which had variations on the dial writings and-or the

lume material of the markers/hands.

Check here a genuine "too yellow" dial reported as Mark (or version) IV:

mark4tm6.jpg

and here another one "whiter" dial reported as Mark V. Notice that on this version, R0lex used Luminova not Tritium! :

markv5wa5.jpg

Still, the "budget" DRSD rep seems very "excited" with the yellow colors, but i guess that is because it's not real tritium, it's yellow luminova probably...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Information and pictures source: "doubleredseadweller" web site

Posted

Neil seems to have cleared his section, so the link above is no longer valid... arghh... :rolleyes:

@dieselpower

I've inquired about MBW DRSD's, and they seem to go for about 350$. That's quite far out of my budget - I'd probably have to save a couple of months for that. Nonetheless, the more I look into it the more plausible it sounds. The question is, whether to go for an expensive version right away (MBW) or buy the Asian to see if I like it.

Note that I tend to wear my Pam 005, 127 and Omega uPO a lot more than my Rolex Noobmariner. Mostly because I enjoy larger watches...

@Lonnie

Is there a specific vintage DRSD ETA for around 200$ you'd recommend?

@spa

Wow... even the gen (Mark IV) was yellowish.... I didn't realize this. Never cease to learn.

And this probably proves that no-one will ever know whether the dial is too yellow or too white to be a gen. As long as you stay away from the AD and the gen forums! :p

Thanks a lot to everyone for their comments! And still open to suggestions (especially now that Neil pulled his listings! :rolleyes: )

Posted
Hello all,

I would like to buy a vintage DRSD. My budget is up to 150$, and thus I am looking for an "entry level" version.

I've searched left and right for information on Entry Level Seadwellers, with not much help. Most topics seem to concentrate on the Noobmariner or MBW SD's, with not much info on budget SD's and especially DRSD's.

I was wondering what people's thoughts are about TTK's recently posted Entry Level Vintage Seadweller. I've posted a photo and the link below for easy reference.

Also, do you have any other suggestions for an entry level vintage DRSD from other dealers?

Thanks in advance for your comments,

L

do you have pics of the bezel thickness?

the most seadweller has an absolute wrong bezel.

that's very painful for the money :-(

Posted
do you have pics of the bezel thickness?

the most seadweller has an absolute wrong bezel.

that's very painful for the money :-(

Thickness was 14mm in TTK's posting, if I am not mistaken. And you are right, most "entry level" versions seem to use a submariner case of 12mm thickness - see Josh and Andrew.

Still looking .... :)

Posted (edited)

not the whole thickness,

only the "bezel" thickness ;-)

that is the crucial point.

Edited by 316L
Posted

@lukes

dunno if the budget rep's "yellow" is easily noticeable as wrong or not.

Judging from the cats' budget DRSD (from Narikaa) i can say that it looks very "luminova surfaced" at least. I mean it's not so grainy like the tritium was...(although the pic is far taken).

That may be a point of "failure" by means that it could be spotted from a Rolex forum user/collector.

But i'd give it a try...

@316L

You can't see the bezel thickness from TTk's pics (angle matter). But i wouldn't expect perfection at this price...Maybe i'm lucky enough to photo it if i get one...

Posted (edited)

take an exactly look only at the bezel.

e.g.

bezelthicknessbhb7.jpg

and now this ...

p1040684bii6.jpg

do you see the big difference of bezel thickness?

the difference of bezel highness?

Edited by 316L
Posted
take an exactly look only at the bezel.

do you see the big difference of thickness?

What i was trying to tell you is that TTK's pics don't help to judge the bezel thickness because he didn't shoot a picture from an angle that shows the bezel from the sides :)

Posted (edited)

WOULD YOU GUYS LISTEN TO YOURSELVES........SHEEZ......IT'S A $100 BUCK WATCH......AND YER ALL OBSESSING OVER MINUTIAE.......LIKE BEZEL THICKNESSES AND [censored] KNOWS WHAT.......GET A LIFE FER CHRISSAKES.....GO OUT AND HUV A PIE AND A PINT......!

Edited by TTK
Posted
WOULD YOU GUYS LISTEN TO YOURSELVES........SHEEZ......IT'S A $100 BUCK WATCH......AND YER ALL OBSESSING OVER MINUTIAE.......LIKE BEZEL THICKNESSES AND [censored] KNOWS WHAT.......GET A LIFE FER CHRISSAKES.....GO OUT AND HUV A PIE AND A PINT......!

Hi TTK,

Great to have you participating in this topic! :)

A couple of questions to you:

1) How does the "Entry Value DRSD" compare with the more expensive offerings, like the MBW version? In terms of case, bezel etc

2) Can you ship it from the EU (for us Europeans) and what would be the cost?

Thank you for your help,

L

Posted (edited)

Hi Lukes.....the main difference is approx $250.00.....+an ETA mov't....and a case that will take genuine Rolex parts......more accurate detailing etc etc......this item is not comparable....what it is...is a daily beater......that NO-ONE in ordinary circles would know is not genuine.......and regardless of how much money and parts you throw at it......those who WOULD know......will never be fooled anyway......so the best thing you can do with this entry level SD.....is batter it about...put lots of nicks and dings on it......smoke the dial a little...and age it......then tell people it was your Pappy's watch.....and that he kept it in his rectal cavity whilst a POW in Vietnam....I'm sure you know the rest.......Joe Schmo....won't know tho'..... .and don't worry about minutiae......you WILL NEVER FOOL A REAL ROLEX W.I.S...regardless of what you do to it....all you will do is fool yourself.....!

In answer to your last questions.....yes I can do forward shipping from UK.....additional $15.00

Edited by TTK
Posted
@spa

Wow... even the gen (Mark IV) was yellowish.... I didn't realize this. Never cease to learn.

...and one clarification lukes that maybe i didn't do in the first place...

I don't think that Rolex ever produced yellow markers on DRSD.

I mentioned the Mark IV DRSD just to show you that some tritium dials could result (aging) in a such a yellowish appearance of the markers/hands, like the "budget" DRSD rep has...

I've seen other aged DRSDs that suffer from serious dial wear but still the tritium markers have a cream appearance instead of yellow.

So, as TTK says and couldn't agree more -> we "will never fool a real Rolex W.I.S." but we can fool almost any other :) (including ourselves :p )

Posted

For the price you cant go wrong with TTKs offering ay that price, really what is left to talk about, buy one and enjoy it!

Posted

My God what a discussion.

Again , entry level, value for money , and a nice daily beater.

If i wanted a perfect loooking DRSD ( with the right markers , by the way , the markers on my DRSD don't even have lume ) i had to pay at least 4 times more to get a decent one ( like a MBW ).

Cats

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