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Trying to find the perfect large dress watch


doc savage

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I have given myself the following guidelines:

1) At least 40mm, 45mm+ is ideal.

2) Not too expensive (OK, cheap is really a better word for it)

3) Doesn't have to be terribly accurate to a gen, fantasy watch is OK. Reps do have their advantages!

4) Should be somewhat obscure.

5) I kind of want to give rose gold a try.

6) Some complications would be nice, but not date functions on a watch that's supposed to be a chrono.

7) Light colored dial preferred.

Here's what I have so far:

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Automatic Gold Case The subdials look scrunched together, it's yellow gold, and overall it's kind of ugly. But it's a working perpetual calendar for a hundred bucks! Plus the size is a healthy 46mm.

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IWC Schaffhausen UTC Automatic GMT Working Gold This is more attractive, but it's still yellow gold.

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IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Automatic Rose Gold Another extremely cheap perpetual calendar. Rose gold is a little nicer, but it doesn't even look like an IWC to me. Looks like something from the Skymall catalog.

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IWC Grande Complication Swiss Lemania Movement Rose Gold Case Much nicer looking, but also much more expensive. Probably not Swiss.

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IWC Schaffhausen Working Power Reserve Rose Gold Case A very nice looking dial on this one, and a healthy 46mm case. The movement looks WAY too small, but it is a budget watch. The big date is cool, and a working power reserve is nice for this price, although it looks like it was supposed to be a flyback second hand.

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IWC Portuguese F.A Jones Collection Swiss ETA 6498 Movement Rose Gold Case A little pricier, a little smaller (43mm), but this is a very attractive watch indeed. I kind of prefer an auto, and I don't like buying reps with croc straps since it's guaranteed they will suck.

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Breguet Rattrapante Ref.5187 BR Chronograph Manual Winding Rose Gold Case OK, these snuck under the radar somehow with their missing chrono functions. The price and size (43mm) are right, though, and they are undoubtedly classy looking.

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Vacheron Constantin Malte Chronograph Whoops, another chrono wannabe. It's not even as nice looking as the Breguet, but I always wanted a VC; it's just fun to say. Suppose you meet this attractive young lady. "What kind of watch is that?" "Oh this? It's just my VACHERON CONSTANTINE MALTE CHRONOGRAPH. (said with the perfect French accent of course)" "Oh. (quiet pop of a bra unhooking itself as if by magic)" No one has ever heard of a VC but it just sounds Terribly Expensive.

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Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Automatic Rose Gold Case The blue numerals are a little gaudy, but I like the dial layout. Cheap, rose gold, auto, and 42mm.

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Patek Philippe Astronomical Celestial Double Dial Rose Gold with White This rep is a little crazy, but it has a certain appeal. I like the quartz watch on the caseback where it's supposed to have a complication depicting the night sky, that's some Chinese ingenuity right there. 43mm and rose gold, and it's nice and thick whick I like (on a watch that is).

2007102377045441.jpg2007102377083049.jpg2007102377096817.jpg

Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Minute Repeater Swiss ETA Unitas 6497 Movement Manual Winding This is a bit expensive and skeleton watches are a little too delicate-looking for my tastes, but this is one well decorated movement. 42mm.

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Rolex Prince Automatic Rose Gold Case About the only Rolex I would ever wear (except maybe a beat-up Bond sub), I really need to see this on a wrist before I decide if I like it. The size seems healthy enough at 31x51mm, or is it too narrow? The dial reminds me of a Bentley Jump-Hour.

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Longines Evidenza Working Chronograph I like blue hands, but not blue numerals so much. This is also a quartz, which usually makes me shudder but quartz chronos aren't so bad--I justify it since the second hand is so small it is not that noticable. 50x38mm, so a little beefier than the Rolex.

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A.Lange&Sohne Grosse Arkade I've never seen one of these before, seems like a very sharp watch. Love the big date, numerals, and the case shape. At 33x49mm it might be too small for me.

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So after writing all that I still have no idea which one I want--help!

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I'm guessing a pattern might emerge here quickly - but I'm thinking the Breguet with the white dial (it does look fantastic still) or the FA Jones. I love the decorated movements in the FA Jones, but the dial always seemed a bit shiny and plasticky from photos. BUT the different crystal that Eunomians put in his FA Jones just blew me away (his is black though) - what a mod and improvement that was - absolutely stunning.

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Nice selection :)

Had you thought about a Vintage Radiomir? I think Tony has Radiomirs in rose gold, they might be worth a look.

With regards the Rolex Prince, I bought that watch in SS for my mother in law's birthday last year. Despite her initial concern that it might be 'too big', she soon got used to it, and wore it daily, until I got her an FM Jump Hours for Christmas :)

Best of luck with your purchase :)

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Nice selection :)

Had you thought about a Vintage Radiomir? I think Tony has Radiomirs in rose gold, they might be worth a look.

With regards the Rolex Prince, I bought that watch in SS for my mother in law's birthday last year. Despite her initial concern that it might be 'too big', she soon got used to it, and wore it daily, until I got her an FM Jump Hours for Christmas :)

Best of luck with your purchase :)

I like Radiomirs, but even in RG I don't consider it a dress watch. Nice and big, though!

And now that I know your mother-in-law wears a prince, I don't think I want one anymore....

By definition, a dress watch is small & simple

grand_arkade0371.jpg

That looks pretty great, not to small and not too big! I know traditionally a dress watch is small & thin, but I just don't enjoy wearing smaller watches anymore.

What size is your wrist, and where did you get that great watch?

Why all the watches you show here are from watch-ebay ???

There are no examples from other dealers around ???

Of course, but browsing sites takes forever, and Tony happens to have a great selection of inexpensive Asian movement reps. Also it doesn't hurt that the site is well laid out and relatively fast. If I knew exactly what I wanted I would then see which dealers have it and go from there.

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That looks pretty great, not to small and not too big! I know traditionally a dress watch is small & thin, but I just don't enjoy wearing smaller watches anymore.

What size is your wrist, and where did you get that great watch?

I have a 7" wrist & I got the Arkade 5 or 6 years ago from a website that is no longer online, but I am pretty sure I have seen the same version of this watch (rose gold with black dial) from 1 of the regular RWG collectors within the past year. You might check their listings.

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Doc - many of these "cheap" reps in the pix look exactly that - cheap one you put them on under a nice dress shirt and expensive suit - the gold finish isn't really a heavy, dull authentic look. Why not an IWC 3717 (unmodded at $250 or so), or a gen vintage Omega that can be had on the 'bay for about $300? If you're going for the dressy look, I'd push beyond the $100 marker....

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I like Radiomirs, but even in RG I don't consider it a dress watch. Nice and big, though!

And now that I know your mother-in-law wears a prince, I don't think I want one anymore....

Please bear in mind that she is not in the 'old battle-axe' catagory of mother in law, rather 'older-version-of-wife-who-you-should't-fancy-but-do-anyway' catagory :lol:

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