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Posted

Umm..... That "Nuke" Pearl you were really interested in, on an incorrect "squared number, hashes to 15" insert on a nearly perfectly even worn brass true coin edge bezel surrounding an aftermarket T19, which gives a rather 'wokky' looking distortion of the rehaut when viewed from the side, with a very nice SWISS gilt dial and hands (although the seconds looks like a newer replacement), in a decent looking case with Brevet Crown, with an unfortunate mis-drilled hole on the upper right lug, enclosing a very nice looking, and appropriate 1030, with a good looking caseback with bad looking date stamp.

Hmmm....

Who's running the grill? The franks are a little underdone.

Posted

Good, good... except for the T18 reference. What's even more obvious than all this...?

Posted

That pearl is awesome. I'm terrible at this game, but even I can pick that one out. Is the crown correct? Looks very shiny to me even if it is right.

Posted

Hmmmm....

Can't see the forest for the trees?

Can't see the between the lugs shot... doesn't exist for me... so if it was there, I can't say...

Perhaps it was the brand new replica rivet bracelet that is bothering you?

Posted

I agree with POTR- the insert looks like a 5513 insert. The lugholes look OK to me- it's just the pics and the lugs have been polished (overpolished?). A T-16 would be correct for the 6536-1, but the crystal looks OK to me. Movement and crown seem OK. I do agree that the seconds hand appears to be a later replacement.

Posted

Keep 'em coming! What's the thing that caught my eye first and, IMO, disqualifies the whole piece?

Posted
Appears to be a 16 on there, thin bezel makes it appear taller.

Folded bracelet is incorrect for this model

Oops, my bad. On a better look, it appears to be a Swiss rivet. That's worth well over a grand right there

Posted

Keep trying... even more obvious.

Posted

I believe that the font on the case back is incorrect. Didn't it have the older (swiss CROWN made) print? Wasn't the /1 a fixed lug case and was there even a /1 designation on the case and case back?

post-8676-1213048242_thumb.jpg

Posted

Swiss on the bottom of the dial is OK- this is before tritium which came in around 1963-4. The dial is actually Radium.

Should it have Submariner??? I don't know, maybe it's too early???

Posted

Wow you guys are good. Mine's a 1958 and has the SWISS dial... radium.

The kicker is the colors used for "100m - 330ft" and "Submariner"

Here's mine:

bond_sub_midnight_2.jpg

Posted

I don't think the difference in white or gilt dial print is a big deal on the depth rating and I certainly don't see anything wrong with the all gilt dial from the pic- but the pic ain't that good.

I guess I'll have to go home and read Skeet and Urul.

Remember, this was the 50's and Rolex did what they did. Who would have thought 50 years later collectors would be over analyzing their vintage watches.

I'm stuck on two minor things- the bezel insert (a 5513 insert) and a possibly replaced second hand- what can you do if the old one breaks! Three, if you count the bracelet, but it's a non issue in my mind.

Price is pretty high, but that's the market. These guys are elephant hunting- if they get one, they can live off the meat for 6 months!

Posted
Wow you guys are good. Mine's a 1958 and has the SWISS dial... radium.

The kicker is the colors used for "100m - 330ft" and "Submariner"

Here's mine:

bond_sub_midnight_2.jpg

Sorry Nanuq, I think you may be wrong on this one. Early versions of the '36 had depth ratings in red, and IMO this dial looks 100%. This watch is obviously worth a lot of money, but it is beat up a bit. It would be interesting what the Timezone folks would say about it.

Posted

Hmmmm... I've never seen one with SUBMARINER in anything but gold on a gilt dial.

It should be silver 100m over gold SUBMARINER. Or, as you said, red depth rating over gold SUB.

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