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Want to build a 1675


polexpete

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Hi Guys,

i've been wanting to build a 1675 for a while now but realise there has never been any rep case close to the real deal. Anyone know what's the best alternative and will it fit a gen dial.

If there's anyone one out there who's built an accurate 1675 any info would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

P.

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I was recently considering the same project, but By-Tor's reviews of the GMTII & some further conversation on the subject pretty much talked me into turning my sights to the more modern version. But since getting the GMTIIC, I put the whole 1675? project on hold (I have other fish on the fryer now anyway).

But if you go that route (1675), I will be interested to see what you come up with.

If it helps, Andrew or Josh have a 1675 that looks like it might be a good base to start from. But it has been a month or so since I did my initial reconnaissance work, so I cannot remember which collector or watch it was. Unless you are considering the next level up -- the Vietnamese/NDTrading route..........

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I have a 1675 project almost done. It's been "almost done" for over 2 years though :D

All the gen bits, really dug up the graveyard on this one. Just needs the case. NDT is unfortunately the only route. But then you may as well buy a c.1575 to drop in there and by that time you're at the investment level of buying a gen, which ironically I'm in the process of doing anyway.

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Hi Freddie, Doc..

Here are some pics of a case i picked up from Silix after i done some work on the case drilling the holes etc. Its stamped 5513 but its much thinner than the sub case and i drilled the holes slightly larger than normal to emphasis this also. Crown guards aren' t too bad either and a gen crown fits right on the original tube although it sits high in the case to accomodate the eta movement. And also the bezel needs some shaving but will need to be done on a lathe at some point i guess.

gmt4.jpg

gmt2.jpg

gmt3.jpg

gmt5.jpg

The only concern i have is that an original dial i'm told measures 27.38mm whereas the dial out of the case is 28mm. I measured the inside rehaut and it comes up very very close but without electronic calipers i can't be certain it will fit. The only alternative is to send the original crappy dial to Micheal Young and have it completely redone to gen spec.

Anyway a work in progress please give me some feedback on what you think and i'll keep you updated on its progress.

Cheers

P.

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One thing with the 1675 that has always been a bit funky- The gen uses the 5.3mm crown! So... That's always been the hurdle for me...

I do have some bits and pieces for a 1675... Purchased in tandem with a lot of doc's parts from back in the day... But still looking for a good basis to start with (though Pete's solution looks quite nice)...

177_7758.jpg

IMG_3300.jpg

IMG_3304.jpg

Another thing to note- The gen uses a very shallow rehaut...

193_9390.jpg

194_9405.jpg

194_9401.jpg

And a very thin case!

194_9402.jpg

But the project is looking really good so far! I'm eager to see how this turns out, Pete!

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Thats good to know, thanks! i emailed MY today so lets hope he can come up with the goods. Its a shame they couldn't have got it a little closer but even the original dial swims around the case. Economics i suppose but a good challenge for us i guess, haha!

Will keep you posted

Cheers

P.

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Hi Ubi,

ahh that's the holy grail... Been working on in it today and seems the shallow rehaut is almost spot on on this case just a shame an original dial won't fit. The insert bleaches nice though...

I used a gen twin-lock crown 6mm which looks correct on the one in your pics, am i wrong?

gmtubi3.jpg

gmtubi1.jpg

Cheers

P.

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Amazing projects guys, just amazing. My old man has the gen, and I will one day own it. :)

@Ubi: What do you mean the 5.3mm crown is a "big hurdle"? I have one spare gen 5.3mm crown for 1675. If you need one, it's yours man.

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Yeah... The gen uses the itty bitty 5.3mm crown; I have gotta say that setting the non-QS date with that crown is a major pain in the ass. One of my least favorite things to do.

At any rate... Getting the correct tube to fit the case has always been a problem for me with building. Let alone finding a good case to use (though Pete's looks like a nice solution). I do appreciate the offer for the crown :) Though for now, I have no use for it (perhaps if I pick this project up again, I'll discuss purchasing it from you)...

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Only my opinion, but 'tis best to buck up & save to purchase the real thing. 1675 is so damn perfect that only by owning the real thing can one do it justice. Plus it's really heating up on the collector's market (which I have been saying for a long time). You will always have to deal with the improper BPH, too, unless you slap in a 1575 (which is getting ridiculously expensive nowadays).

L1010050.jpg

Now if there are accessible 1655 OEM parts, that's a different story. Again, just my opinion.

PS. I LOVE my 1675!

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Yeah... The gen uses the itty bitty 5.3mm crown; I have gotta say that setting the non-QS date with that crown is a major pain in the ass. One of my least favorite things to do.

At any rate... Getting the correct tube to fit the case has always been a problem for me with building. Let alone finding a good case to use (though Pete's looks like a nice solution). I do appreciate the offer for the crown :) Though for now, I have no use for it (perhaps if I pick this project up again, I'll discuss purchasing it from you)...

Ubi -- Try these tubes from Ofrei

PP -- I like what you have done so far. It would be nice if the Silix case had the correct 1675 engravings & it fit a gen dial, but the engravings will be covered by the end links & once the dial issue is sorted out, I think you will be on your way.

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looks good !

2 questions :

how is the DW on the Silix Rep ?

is this a gen topic ? if yes - does it fit nicely ?

thx

Frank

Hi Frank,

datewheel is pretty good, open 6 and 9 but i gonna use an Ubi datwheel on this one. Not a gen tropic this one is domed with a cylops, i think a gen will fit but gotta ask toomuchgear how to do it...

cheers

P.

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Only my opinion, but 'tis best to buck up & save to purchase the real thing. 1675 is so damn perfect that only by owning the real thing can one do it justice. Plus it's really heating up on the collector's market (which I have been saying for a long time). You will always have to deal with the improper BPH, too, unless you slap in a 1575 (which is getting ridiculously expensive nowadays).

Now if there are accessible 1655 OEM parts, that's a different story. Again, just my opinion.

PS. I LOVE my 1675!

I agree with everything but buying a watch is easy, building one is much more fun....

P.

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Now THIS is what I used to love about this place! Sharing best practice. Glad to see all the usual vintage nuts in one place :D

Pete, intriguing, very intriguing - exactly which case is this from Jay's motley collection? Do you have a ref no.? I looked at his cases a while back but my eye thought the rep dials looked huge in the case and so would not fit my gen redial (right as it turns out).

I agree with both you AND Euno - I hope to have the gen I've my eye on by the year end, but I still want the 'fun' of making this franken even with an incorrect fast-beat movt (finding a reasonably-priced good condition c.1575 is very difficult). So I'm still mulling over a stripped-down (no bezel or crystal) NDT case for around $700 - holding off in the faint hope, a new and appropriately-priced source for these becomes available.

As an aside, I'd also be interested to know what your exact insert bleaching protocol is? I actually like my gen Pepsi insert minty fresh all dark and clean, but looking to recreate a nice 'grey' on my 1665.

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Only my opinion, but 'tis best to buck up & save to purchase the real thing. 1675 is so damn perfect that only by owning the real thing can one do it justice. Plus it's really heating up on the collector's market (which I have been saying for a long time). You will always have to deal with the improper BPH, too, unless you slap in a 1575 (which is getting ridiculously expensive nowadays).

L1010050.jpg

Now if there are accessible 1655 OEM parts, that's a different story. Again, just my opinion.

PS. I LOVE my 1675!

Good to see you Euno! :drool::wub:

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Hi Frank,

datewheel is pretty good, open 6 and 9 but i gonna use an Ubi datwheel on this one. Not a gen tropic this one is domed with a cylops, i think a gen will fit but gotta ask toomuchgear how to do it...

cheers

P.

P, the crystal sits in a channel like most Chn reps and has to be glued in place. I used a Clarks aftermarket crystal on mine and used 1000 grain sandpaper wet and just took my time stopping every so often the check the height in the case. It's harder than I thought to do it evenly, just take your time and test fit it along the way.

-TMG

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Now THIS is what I used to love about this place! Sharing best practice. Glad to see all the usual vintage nuts in one place :D

Pete, intriguing, very intriguing - exactly which case is this from Jay's motley collection? Do you have a ref no.? I looked at his cases a while back but my eye thought the rep dials looked huge in the case and so would not fit my gen redial (right as it turns out).

I agree with both you AND Euno - I hope to have the gen I've my eye on by the year end, but I still want the 'fun' of making this franken even with an incorrect fast-beat movt (finding a reasonably-priced good condition c.1575 is very difficult). So I'm still mulling over a stripped-down (no bezel or crystal) NDT case for around $700 - holding off in the faint hope, a new and appropriately-priced source for these becomes available.

As an aside, I'd also be interested to know what your exact insert bleaching protocol is? I actually like my gen Pepsi insert minty fresh all dark and clean, but looking to recreate a nice 'grey' on my 1665.

Hey Doc yeah the gen is awesome... this is the link to the model i used: http://www.silix-prime.com/product.asp?id=1494

As for bleaching inserts i first start with half bleach half water and see what happens. Some aftermarket inserts fade fast others need full bleach mix. As for gens they are pretty durable and take a while in full strength bleach, but best to keep a close eye on them too.

Cheers

P.

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Thanks Pete, thought it might be that one. So what's your dial fix? Rep dial to Michael?

Nice specs but the dial non-fit is the dealbreaker for me. Damn, I want that NDT case badly - no messing around grinding crystals etc - dial *fits*, T116 *fits* gen insert *snap fits*. But for that amount of money? For a rep case?! Got to pay to play I suppose. But not yet, not yet.

Insert-bleaching, what strength? what times are we talking?

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Thanks Pete, thought it might be that one. So what's your dial fix? Rep dial to Michael?

Nice specs but the dial non-fit is the dealbreaker for me. Damn, I want that NDT case badly - no messing around grinding crystals etc - dial *fits*, T116 *fits* gen insert *snap fits*. But for that amount of money? For a rep case?! Got to pay to play I suppose. But not yet, not yet.

Insert-bleaching, what strength? what times are we talking?

Hey Doc,

yeah but the problem with the gen case is i doubt it will fit an eta movement so you"ll have to stump up for a gen 1575. Might as well get a gen for a bit more money but a lot less hassle.

Yeah will get this dial re-done but Micheal not answering mail and he does take a long long time so looking at alternative people to do it.

The bleaching has no fixed times because it depends on the insert. Full strength (no water) works fast but best to mix half bleach half water to start just to be safe. I leave it in for no more than 5mins then take it out, rinse it in cold water and dry it. Repeat untill happy with result.

Cheers

P.

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Hey Doc,

yeah but the problem with the gen case is i doubt it will fit an eta movement so you"ll have to stump up for a gen 1575. Might as well get a gen for a bit more money but a lot less hassle.

Yeah will get this dial re-done but Micheal not answering mail and he does take a long long time so looking at alternative people to do it.

The bleaching has no fixed times because it depends on the insert. Full strength (no water) works fast but best to mix half bleach half water to start just to be safe. I leave it in for no more than 5mins then take it out, rinse it in cold water and dry it. Repeat untill happy with result.

Cheers

P.

Not convinced on the ETA not fitting into the NDT case - until I see it confirmed at least. The 1655 case, although slightly different in proportions, will take a 2836.

But yes, the hassle-free option and je ne c'est quoi qualities of the gen are very appealing.

Thanks for the bleach protocol - will give it a shot - tried it once on an aftermarket insert but problem I had was the bleaching was not uniform (like the UV ageing it is supposed to replicate), crept in from the periphery/outside diameter - not a great look.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pete, I hope this isn't thread crapping but your post is great. I just wanted to add a little of what I've done since we have parallel projects going. I eagerly await to see your redial from MY.

I also softened the case edges to hide the slightly bulbous shape to the case sides that you notice the most on the lugs where they join the case -if that makes sense.

Thin case shot and sanded down crystal profile

DSCN5089.jpg

With the shaved/thinned down bezel on a lathe

DSCN5255.jpg

Bezel reaming cuts are almost nonexistent after the shaving of the bezel. I haven't decided how to tackle that one yet.

You'll also notice I went a little crazy with the countersink on the lug holes on this side of the case :bangin:

DSCN5256.jpg

DSCN5295.jpg

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