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Thanks for the insight there The Zigmeister, I wondered why that post was made that you wouldn't install the datewheel. This is invaluble information for some of us that did not know there were so many issues. I know I for one had no idea there were so many that were defective. It must be very frustrating for you to encounter these problems when doing the work.

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Thanks for the insight there Ziggy, I wondered why that post was made that you wouldn't install the datewheel. This is invaluble information for some of us that did not know there were so many issues. I know I for one had no idea there were so many that were defective. It must be very frustrating for you to encounter these problems when doing the work.

I don't "not" do things at a whim. Especially if I am charging for my time for a particular service. If you note things or services I don't offer, there is always a good reason behind why I made that decision. Same as not accepting certain watches from certain dealers, or if they have been in the hands of other certain other modders.

Experience has taught me hard lessons in both those cases.

RG

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Excellent post (as usual) Ziggy.

But since your comments centered around PAMs, I would like to add that I have had the same problems installing aftermarket DWs in ETA-powered Rolex reps (which I am no longer willing to do & for the same reasons Ziggy mentioned). I think it also needs to be said that, by far, most of the aftermarket DWs I see are being sourced from Mr. Slimeball, the infamous middle eastern aftermarket parts seller in Texas who describes his parts as being 'A High Quality Item, You Will Not Be Able To Tell The Difference From The Original.' If the original were a POS, then he is right. But in this case, when his inference suggests that his parts match Rolex quality, nothing could be further from the truth & each (or any 2 or more) of the complaints Ziggy listed above has occurred with every DW I have seen from Mr. Slimeball.

One thing that buyers can look for as soon as you receive your aftermarket DW is the shape of the teeth on the inside of the DW. They should generally be 'U' shaped with smooth, rounded sides. If the 'U' has a flattened side, the wheel may hang because the 'flat' in the tooth gets stuck in the date change mechanism. Also, be sure that the top of each set of numbers roughly aligns with the center of each tooth. That is, if you draw an imaginary line along the top of the number through its corresponding tooth, the line should pass roughly through the 'peak' or center of the tooth. If the line runs between teeth or varies in location for different numbers, the dates will probably not be in proper alignment in the date window.

This is a gen Rolex 1570 DW. Note the shape of the teeth & consistency of the location of the numbers relative to their corresponding teeth

1570datediscgenuine.jpg

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  • 8 months later...

Thanx for the info The Zigmeister!

Someone know, does the gen ETA7750 datewheel work for both the old 21k6 and the new 28k8 A7750?

Also, saw e.g. watchpart.co.uk offers the ETA7750 date@3 and date@4.5 datewheels as different products, strange? I thought the 4.5 layout would use the normal date@3 datewheel. Could perhaps be that it is a bit different to work with the gen ETA7753, question is, when going for an ETA datewheel for a rep with 9-6-3 layout and date@4.5 like the MB Timewalker, which probably uses the tri-compax module, should one go for the date@3 wheel anyway?

Thanx guys.

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Interesting reading! Especially about Mr. Slimeball.

Does this problem also relate to date wheel overlays or just aftermarket date wheels? It seems if paint thickness is an issue on the date wheel, an overlay shouldn't work at all. Yet they come on most Rolex reps.

I'm a little confused.

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