Bizarre Bangkok Taxi Ride

[narikaa]

After around twelve years of coming here I have had the most unusual and wryly comical experience in a cross town Taxi. Being on the road is always an experience but this was noteworthy.

A bit of background info for those who have never been here, and those who have but never dug deeper than superficial tourism.

Thailand is predominantly a (Theraveda) Buddhist country. Having said that there is a lot of things carried out under that banner that have absolutely nothing to do with the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama and everything to do with ancient animism.

Thais are besotted by spirits and ghosts, as evidenced by the media's lurid offerings which are always eagerly digested. In the countryside babies are often given 'ugly' nick names so spirits wont be keen to steal them!

Back to matters of the road, often when a serious accident occurs (with fatalities) a little 'spirit house' will be erected at the site - both to placate the malevolent spirits that inhabit that area and doubtless caused the accident, and to give succour to the newly departed who may still linger with a vengeful disposition! Locals will often add 'Buddhist icons and images especially broken ones (which could no longer be kept in their homes).

The resultant 'shrine' now has its own (growing) influence, and in order to receive the good graces - or at least dispel the unwanted attentions of the spirits, Thais will not only make offerings of garlands , food etc, but will Wai it on sight. The Wai is the world famous hands together head bowed posture often confused by foreigners as equivalent to their handshake. Now here's the rub, no one but the most foolhardy would drive past one of these without Wai'ing it for fear of falling victim to another spirit induced accident. Of course driving through an already proven dangerous stretch of road with both hands clasped in front of your nose and eyes downcast leads to inevitable consequences and pretty soon you have a self perpetuating accident black spot !!

Most Thais will wear a Buddha amulet, these are a complex and intricate subject, but different ones imbibe differing powers and protections. I recall a dealer in these some years back telling me that whatever one he was going on about was the most powerful protection against death on the road. Proven by the fact that he had enquired of the officials of the Sawangboriboon (an organisation that masquerades as an accident rescue service) and they in living memory had never recovered a body wearing one (I personally doubt they've ever recovered a body in possession of ANY valuables). I suppose by this rationale wearing odd fluorescent coloured socks would be equally as efficacious - as they've never recovered a corpse wearing these either!!!

So on to the taxi ride, as soon as I got in I knew this guy was different, he was festooned in amulets as was the vehicle - the steering column was covered by wooden phallus tied around it (an ancient male protection amulet normally tied around the waist). As we rattled along (both rear wheel bearings were shot and the differential would soon be following them!) I sneaked a photo of his travelling 'shrine'.......

Shortly after I made conversation about his collection stating I had met Luang Phra Khoon (the figure on the left of the dashboard crouching smoking) - regarded by the Thais as a Living National Treasure - some eight years ago in Korat. Now I had his interest, I told him Luang Phra Khoon had rapped me on the head with his bamboo stick too (considered very fortuitous). Well he was off like a scalded earwig opening little bags of amulets, taking chains of them from under his shirt etc all while barrelling along a four lane elevated freeway !! He showed me one I recognised as the 'Sothorn' Buddha, when I told him this I obviously went up in his estimation as out came his antique prized amulets from the glove box. Now it should be explained here that the protocols for passing and receiving an amulet is to perform the earlier mentioned Wai but with the amulet between the hands before passing it to another and on receiving it. Now in four lanes of vehicular lunacy that is so common place in the City of Angels this was a sight to behold, blaring horns very near misses and a taxi driver turned facing his rear seat passenger Wai'ing !!!

Well we survived some several kilometers of repeating this 'ritual' so maybe he did have some powerful protection after all.

.

[Dani]

Great read, i enjoyed that one

Thanks for shearing and this post just reminds me i have to travel to Thailand one day.

Cheers

Dani

[robertk]

Actually, that happens all the time on So.Cal freeways with out all the amulets

[cornerstone]

Great story!

[chiefwiggum]

Did you happen to notice what type of watch he was wearing :p

[Cats]

Incrediable what a story .

You must have a strong hart to get through this taxi ride.

Carpe Diem

Cats

[V]

great story.. love learning small details about cultures i have no idea about:)

[RWG Technical]

Great story. It reminds me of my days working in Koh Samui and spending an overnight in BKK coming and going...

RG

[Toadtorrent]

Fun and educational story...thanks for sharing.

[Corgi]

I love how his car is adorned with all of these things to keep him safe, but he's apparently replaced the steering wheel on his modern car with an aftermarket one that doesn't house an airbag.

[tech]

Sounds familiar...I met Luang Phra Khoon about 4 years back and got the same stick on the head...have several of his amulets too...just waiting for the eternal blessings to start flowing my way...

[ubiquitous]

Wow! Lucky to still be in one piece!

[specialvat]

Cool story, wonder if they have any of that stuff in halfords.