Did a search.....dg2813 or 4813?

[vizsladog]

Is there a big noticeable diference in movement???

I dont want a jerky movement.....

Looks like a noobmariner will be just fine for my needs (and $200.00 cheaper than a wm9/euro)

This site has been a great informative website.

Glad i signed up.....

Edited October 14, 2008 by vizsladog

[alligoat]

I really doubt anyone can see the difference between a 6 beat and an 8 beat- 2813= 21600 and 4813 = 28800 bph. Euro charges $25 upcharge for the 4813 over the 2813. Next step is the 2836-2 ETA and that's where the big price jump is. For the long run, I'm partial to ETA's cause I've tried changing out DG2813's and had no luck- but than again, my watchmaker has begrudgingly serviced the CN movements and made them good again- for around $40 a pop. True ETA's can always be serviced.

[Toadtorrent]

Alligoat has summarized the info nicely. Remember...from all you will read here...you are talking about a very select cross section of society...and the premium posters on this board are really some of the most knowledgeable watch enthusiasts around...gen or rep. So...what are often really small issues may seem "bigger" on this board because of the WIS pursuit of perfection or close-enough-to-it-ness.

Pretty much all reps (except for uber-modified Frankens) can easily be spotted by a specialist in the field...but those specialists are few and far between.

e.g. People who can determine visually the difference between the 21.6k and the 28.8k movements either have enough knowledge about movements and which goes into what...that they will likely be able to call out inconsistencies with crown shape on Rolexes or relative font sizes on casebacks...so there is no point in trying to pass your fake off as a gen.

You'll read that some users here have passed their reps as gens and fooled some ADs (very bad taste and a bad practice and against forum rules)...but remember...very few people who sell watches, really KNOW watches.

Most people (including those who buy gens) won't even know what a Panerai or Alaine Silberstein is...let alone what beat movement should go in which watch (some watches like vintage Rolexes or Pams actually should have 21.6k movements). The rest of society will just know that Rolexes don't move like quartz movements...and a 21.6k 2813 will more than fit that bill...of course, unless it's supposed to have a quartz movement (e.g. some Omegas, Tags, Rolex, etc).

[blue_sphere]

Excellent choice on your noob. Its a GREAT watch!

As far as movements. Really it depends on you, and I doubt anyone will know the difference even yourself. What matters if it bothers you "inside" AKA in your head your wishin you got the higher movement...

I have a few swiss ETA and let me say... I can barely count 4 ticks because the watch ticks so fast.

IMHO just stick with the 6 beat movement.

[highoeyazmuhudee]

i personally cant stand 21.6K movements, reminds me too much of my first cheap automatics, like a quartz on a caffine binge. 28.8 is almost silky smooth and i can ALWAYS notice a difference EVEN at a distance of 5 feet between the two. also in my experience the 21.6 is a terrible time keeper compared to the 28.8. im sure others have had better accuracy success with a 21.6

i have both the DG4813 and 2813. the 48 is fairly smooth i'd say, the same as ETA and maybe even rolex, only reason it'd be jerky compared to rolex is that their movements are regulated and have no errors. my only complaint with the 48 is that the date change takes about an hour to click over. FOR SOME REASON the 2813 i have; clicks over right at 12midnight. if the 4813 did this i wouldnt even consider eta for $150 difference, instead the 4813 is a $25 movement that is a GREAT time keeper...mine was +4 seconds out of the box, has a very smooth sweep and was cheap!

if i had a vintage rollie model the 2813 would be a perfect engine. I do ponder the possibility of an accutron 214 movement (that's 2,520,000bph! vs 28,800bph)in a noob so maybe you should ignore my musings

Edited October 15, 2008 by highoeyazmuhudee

[freddy333]

e.g. People who can determine visually the difference between the 21.6k and the 28.8k movements either have enough knowledge about movements and which goes into what...that they will likely be able to call out inconsistencies with crown shape on Rolexes or relative font sizes on casebacks...so there is no point in trying to pass your fake off as a gen.

I think it is alot easier to hear the differences (in beats) between an 18k or a 21k or a 28k beats per hour (bph) movement than it is to ID them by sight (based on the smoothness of a sweep second hand). At least, that has always been my experience. You can easily fool my eyes, but rarely my ears, at least when 2 movements vary by more than 3-4k bph.

[Toadtorrent]

I think it is alot easier to hear the differences (in beats) between an 18k or a 21k or a 28k beats per hour (bph) movement than it is to ID them by sight (based on the smoothness of a sweep second hand). At least, that has always been my experience. You can easily fool my eyes, but rarely my ears, at least when 2 movements vary by more than 3-4k bph.

That makes sense to me. My gens are all vintage with slow beats...so I'm more of a visual...I just notice something seems the same or "different" in the movement from my gens.

[stemil]

I know I asked this in another thread and got no answer, but it would be really nice if someone could post a video comparing a 2813 and a 4813 watch side by side...

[automatico]

"i have both the DG4813 and 2813. the 48 is fairly smooth i'd say, the same as ETA and maybe even rolex, only reason it'd be jerky compared to rolex is that their movements are regulated and have no errors."

The DG/CH 2813/4813, NN38, Seagull ST16 (all the Miyota 8215 clones) have offset sweep seconds driven by a wheel outside the power train with a tension spring riding on the end of the sweep second pinion. For this reason, the second hands are sometimes prone to 'second hand stutter' if the tension is too light. This stutter will make the second hand appear to be less smooth than it should be.

Sometimes you can hold the watch on edge and see the second hand tracking as it should when running 'uphill' and stuttering when running 'downhill'.

uphill = heavy end of hand climbing up the dial with the watch on edge

Many 'classic' movements have offset ss pinions...rolex 1530, Bulova 11BLACD etc. (the Bulova is made a lot like the rolex)

The cure is to slightly increase the tension on the ss pinion tension spring.