lanikai Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 "The Rose" UN Maxi Chrono I have asked RobbieG to do the Honours of an Intro.. as our "In House" UN Pro.. it is fitting that RG lead us off.. keep in mind this is the "short" version take it away Robbie !! O.K. here is the deal. I must say I was flattered when Lani asked me to comment on his UN's for his macro review. That such an astute collector would value my opinion means a lot to me. I have been a follower of Ulysse Nardin since the 80's and have been a fan of both the innovations pioneered by the genius watchmaking of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin and its rich history supplying marine chronometers to merchant and military ships throughout the late 18th and the first half of the 19th century. Many people don't really know a lot about the company, but I have become a bit of a historian over the years which has always held my interest. I currently own two genuine Nardin's - one from the Marine line and one from the Complications line. UN is split into two camps really: High Complications with particularly innovative twists and the Marine Line. UN spends little time in between and frankly, they don't need to. Their focus and doing just a few things very well is I think one of the greatest strengths of the brand. I am in the process of doing a complete UN guide at the moment so more history and general information about the brand later. Stay tuned to the RWG channel... The first high quality replications from UN have of course been of the Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph - first in the steel variants, and now in rose gold. Although I haven't handled the gold version as of yet, I expect it will be identical in fit, finish and feel to the steel variant which I had the pleasure of seeing in the flesh at the South Florida GTG a few weeks ago. So my comments on feel will make that assumption. The flaws have mostly already been discussed with the steel version, so I wouldn't waste a lot of time worrying about them if I were you. Most are repeats in the gold version as well, but to me are very minor. I'm sure if one looks hard enough, there are more but here are the basic ones: 1. The rotor on the gen is not blue. As an aside, the gen blue rotors are not annodized either. They are actually a blue titanium alloy applied with an ion sputtering process. The gen rotor on the gold watches is solid 22K gold. 2. I had ordered the gen of this watch and sent it back because I bought it from pictures and was not all that familiar with genuine UN rose gold. In a phrase - I don't like it at all. Their alloy is not very "rosey" at all. UN rose gold is very close to yellow gold in color and because of the added copper, it takes on an almost greenish brown appearance in certain light. The rep gold plating is by contrast very "rosey" and it doesn't really match the gold color of the gen. To me this is a good thing! But again, this flaw is minor and won't be seen in every lighting condition. You have to know what you are looking for. 3. The screws on the gold elements in the rubber bracelet should be black and not gold. Easy fix. 4. The dial is basically 1:1 and in a way, that is actually what helps to create this last of the so called "noticeable" flaws. The gen watch is based on the Valjioux 7753 tricompax layout movement with the subdials at 9, 3, & 6 and the date at 4:30. UN modifies the movement in house using additonal modules. What they have done is eliminate the 12 hour counter module and shift the date module from 4:30 to 6. But here is the difference. On the 7753, the date window is quite close to the edge of the case - much closer than in the 7750 which has different spacing to accomodate a day wheel as well for those who use it in different ebauches. The A7750 which is in the rep duplicates the gen ETA 7750 for all intents. So what happens is when you move the date module to 6 on the 7750, it ends up closer to the center of the case than the 7753. Here is what happens as a result of that: The case size and dial printing are basically 1:1 in terms of layour for CNC. But because the date is higher into the dial on the rep what happens is the cyclops ends up partially obscuring the red 200M font. This doesn't happen on the gen because the 7753 as I said places the date lower on the dial. This was an oversight of the makers and hopefully in v2 they will adjust the CNC run so the 200m prints a hair higher. Technically, the dial won't be 1:1 then, but it will solve the problem, make the proportions correct, and it will now go unnoticed. As I said, the flaws are totally minor so nuf said on those. My final comments are on fit, finish and feel. Anyone who knows me knows I can't say enough about the quality of the UN watches. The three "F"s are just unsurpassed at their price points in the industry. The quality of the machine work and hand finishing in the bracelets and cases is second to none and easliy comparable to the top tier pieces it competes with such as Vacheron, Breguet, GO and even Lange & Sohne. In a word, UN metal work is nothing short of amazing. When I went to the GTG to check out Phoband's steel version of the Marine Diver Chrono, I must say I didn't know what to expect. I have to say I was truly blown away at how great a job the rep did at nailing the "feel" of the watch which to me is everything in horology. If a watch doesn't feel like an expensive, high quality piece I have no use for it. I guess that may be why I sort of lost interest in Rolex sports watches over the years as I just got spoiled by UN. Don't get me wrong, I still love Rolex for being what they are but I have to call it like I see it when it comes to the fit, finish and feel battle. When I compare the gen YM I used to have with the UN Maxi Marine Diver on bracelet that I own now there is just no contest. The YM feels like a cheap toy next to it. Imagine that? A Rolex Yachtmaster mind you. But I speak the truth. So the fact that these reps even come close to capturing that luxury feel even without the hand work is simply amazing to me. Sure, the absolute finest details may be absent or slightly diminished, but only the most anal WIS like me would ever notice or even know what the differences are. In closing, I urge everyone to get whatever version of this watch in terms of color scheme you prefer. They are all great. Although I should point out that until a few things are cleared up with the next run the most accurate versions are the steel with black/red bezel and the gold with black dial is great too - as long as you can live with the blue rotor for now. I have a feeling that and a few other flaws may be corrected in v2. If just a few minor things get corrected, the Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph could easily make the short list for rep of the year! There are subtle differences with the RG UN and the SS UN .... my first time with this macro lens hope you enjoy the view ~ This came today also.. thank you RWG for being here 24/7 ~ 365 In Closing I would like to state.... Superb !!!! I will be wear this piece on occasion ... IMO it looks best with sleeves.. this is by far a "KEEPER".. in short the replication is very, very well done !!! Thank you all for Viewing !!!!!!!! Aloha~Cheers Lani Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shundi Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Bravo, Bravo, Bravo! Superb commentating- the perfect blend of history and analysis from Robbie and the macros...Lani- astounding!!!! You took to that macro lens like a fish to water! Simply amazing guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Excellent stuff. Well done. Grrrrr....Lani, I thought you said you wernt getting this version. Now it makes me wanna have this one. Will order as soon as I am back from my vacation. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arrowax Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Great review. Thanks so much. I purchased this watch (RG) during the CNY and still waiting delivery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nleap Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 thats just a beautiful watch! I was only considering ordering one but now I think I have to. Where did this one come from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dani Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Great pics Lani, i enjoy this review What Lens you use here? Thanks and Cheeeeers, Dani Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chubbchubb Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Great team effort resulting in an excellent review. Thanks, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Great stuff once again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzman Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Noooo - NOT GOOD! Lani ,you just made me buy this watch - a watch that I never even considered.. damnit! + that I have no more room in my watchbox and I just bought a new one ..damn. -- tazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmarshal Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I'd been waiting to see some pics of the RG version and once again you've done a great job. The combined review was fantastic and I'm hopeful that this is the beginning of a series of nice UN reps. What an underrated brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLudlowe Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 + that I have no more room in my watchbox and I just bought a new one ..damn. -- tazz Rule #1 - you can never buy a watch box that's big enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikki6 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Great job guys!!! Even better job on Lani's part getting Robbie G to shut up!! Seriously, amazing job you 2! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLudlowe Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 What about the clasp? One thing I remember from the gen was how well detailed the deployant clasp was - it was a work of art in itself. Is the rep clasp a reasonable reproduction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek001 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Superb review and photos, guys - a beautiful collaboration. How do you think this watch would wear on a 6.5" wrist? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 What about the clasp? One thing I remember from the gen was how well detailed the deployant clasp was - it was a work of art in itself. Is the rep clasp a reasonable reproduction? The clasp on the SS has a very nice feel. The midlinks on strap though should have gold markings and 750 stamped on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLudlowe Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Another "minor" tell - The crosspiece on the deployant is steel on the gen - on the rep it's plated RG - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Great pics Lani, i enjoy this review What Lens you use here? Thanks and Cheeeeers, Dani Thank you All! And Dani, I used the Nikor 60mm A/M Lens.. these pics were taken with Manual settings and I set the white light manually... I guess you would call it "custom", because to capture the "true" rose gold colour IMO you need to be as close to real life colour as possble.. and the lighting and settings need to be a little lower than normal or the rose gold turns to much reflection of light .. and that will discolour the gold to look more yellow. FYI ~ the auto focus on the Nikor is good for shots that capture broader areas ie. the UN with the tea pot,.. but for close up macros and especially for images that try and capture depth of field.. the manual focus is a must, to get the "exact area" that you are trying to capture is very difficult (for me) with the auto. it's hard to delegate exactly where the lens is focusing in the auto mode Granted the manual focus takes longer but the precision is better IMO. The only reason I got the Nikor is the manager of the store offered to swap my sigma 105mm for the nikor .. and the 60 and 105 mm is no different on close up macro's .. it will make a difference in group or portrait shots as the 105 covers a wider range (area).. so he took a look at some of my images and told me he thinks I cold do better with the Nikor.. so as PR.. since I bought everything there.. he offered to do a swap .. I couldn't turn it down But he did say the 105 mm Nikor has some tech issues .. nothing that would affect my images but overall the 60mm is the better macro lens, out of the 2 Nikor has. Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Another "minor" tell - The crosspiece on the deployant is steel on the gen - on the rep it's plated RG - thank you RLud. actually this would be an easy fix .. and at the same time a good way to determine how thick the plating is on the rep.. some metal polish to strip .. a dremel would speed things up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 It would be just plain wrong !!! to not state that Robbies eloquent synopsis of the UN line and the basis of this Replication was by far Top Of the Line !!! This Am is actually the first time I got to read it thoroughly and must say it is Magnificent !! after I finished posting this .. I attempted to read it but .. that was all she wrote ... I had hit the proverbial "Wall" .. so, thank you very Much Robbie !!!!!!!! thanks for the team effort,... the UN is now one of my faves, whilst at first thought it wasn't ....... Aloha~Cheers Lani Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Superb review and photos, guys - a beautiful collaboration. How do you think this watch would wear on a 6.5" wrist? Personally, I feel the case wears bigger than 42.7MM. About like 44MM on my regular MMD. Plus the chunky CG's, flat caseback (which is very comfy BTW) make these very substantial. But the chrono has a less busy dial so maybe on the MMDC here the subdials bring it in a bit. Lani? Of course the case is thicker on the chrono as well. The main reason the watch wears bigger though is the bezel width is small which makes the dials seem bigger. Meanwhile, watches with more width to the bezels relative to the dial like say the Steelfish wear smaller than 44MM because of that. .02 BTW, important message to all: I am giving these a name for simplicty. As you know I always call my Maxi Marine Diver MMD to keep it simple. So now I officially dub the Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph MMDC. Please make a note of that from the unofficial RWG UN mascot - lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nleap Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 I was wondering where did you get this particular watch? Which dealers are offering it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Mate you can get this from Josh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Personally, I feel the case wears bigger than 42.7MM. About like 44MM on my regular MMD. Plus the chunky CG's, flat caseback (which is very comfy BTW) make these very substantial. But the chrono has a less busy dial so maybe on the MMDC here the subdials bring it in a bit. Lani? Of course the case is thicker on the chrono as well. The main reason the watch wears bigger though is the bezel width is small which makes the dials seem bigger. Meanwhile, watches with more width to the bezels relative to the dial like say the Steelfish wear smaller than 44MM because of that. .02 Putting the SS and the RG on .. I would say the RG wears or "appears" smaller than the SS .. the colours having everything to do with the illusion of "size" the RG has the all black bezel, and the indices on the subs are black.. and the indices on the minutes are gold.... as you know the darker colours will give an illusion of a lesser size.. factor in the RG case and you have what appears a piece that "looks" smaller on the wrist than it actually is And maybe the big factor are the lugs .. compared to say,.. Breitlings the lugs are "stubby" and don't even go to the ends of my wrists .. but that's just my opinion.. rek001 Posted Today, 06:33 AM Superb review and photos, guys - a beautiful collaboration. How do you think this watch would wear on a 6.5" wrist? thank you ! So, to answer your Q. it would look great and even better with a long sleeve or sweater. If you notice as I stated the lugs are "stubby" and don't reach the edge of my wrist .. and my wrist is 7 to 7.5" depending on diet .. etc. RLudlowe Posted Today, 06:01 AM What about the clasp? One thing I remember from the gen was how well detailed the deployant clasp was - it was a work of art in itself. Is the rep clasp a reasonable reproduction? We need to be mindful that a replication, although very well made cannot be put on an equal base with it's genuine counterpart,.. having said that, IMO the clasp is very well done for a rep. nleap Posted Today, 03:01 PM I was wondering where did you get this particular watch? Which dealers are offering it? Sorry ... I was going to answer your post this morning but I stayed too long at the coffee shop .. This Replication came from Joshua ... perfect88clones@gmail.com ... that is his email But to be fair ,.. all factory dealers have this item now, .. I have been dealing with Joshua for some years now and trust his after purchase service If you are in EU,.. check with many of our EU members.. re: Customs .... Good Luck !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corgi Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Nice pictures! The watch is too expensive for me, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Nice pictures! The watch is too expensive for me, though. Hey Corgi !! thank you !! Great to see you posting U must be busy... as a side, I think your avatar is one of the most "Creative" Cheers L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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