Understated, or Over-rated...

[TeeJay]

Okay, I've been promising some reviews for a while now, which, watches under repair have prevented me from presenting, but at last, I have the opportunity to make a contribution to the forum in written form.

About my review:

In writing this review, I am going to follow the style of a review which ultimately led to my interest in Omega watches, and ultimately reps, John B. Holbrook, II's excellent comparitive review, Omega Seamster Professional Vs Rolex Submariner.

I am going to be judging the watch as objectively, and honestly as possible, giving justifications for my reasonings as I go. These scores are purely based upon my own observations and opinions about the watch, people are free to agree or disagree as they wish.

A note about my 'scoring system':

I will be scoring on a scale of 0 - 10, with 5 being the mid-way score. A score of 5, would mean that the 'aspect' performs its intended function. And no more. A score of five, in academic terms, would be considered 'a pass', but the lowest possible pass, and single lower mark would have meant a failing grade. Respectively, a 0 reflects a total failure to perform the designated role, and a 10 represents a performance of the designated role which goes 'above and beyond', and could not possibly be better.

The watch I am reviewing is, as mentioned above, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas large size (42mm) I have not opened the caseback to examine the movement, as the tools I have available are not adequate to doing so without seriously damaging the case and screws. As a result, I will not be judging this watch based on it's movement or time-keeping abilities. From my observations, of the rotor only 'ratcheting' in one direction, I will make the educated guess that it is an Asian movement. Another reason I am not judging this aspect, is it is an irrelevence to the overall watch. It is an automatic watch, and it tells the time, tuse a quote from a British TV advertisement "It does what it says on the tin"... So, let's get started...

CASE:

In a word, 'disapointing'. Although a relatively classic shape, the case is totally lacking in subtlety. No sculptured sides or surfaces, it is simply a squared off hunk of metal. It has no crown guards, and replacing the stock bracelet with a custom choice, would be nearly impossible.

RATING:4

BEZEL:

A mixed bag. The bezel on the VC Overseas is purely decorative, and performs no usefull function, as say the bezel on a Diver's Watch, or a GMT Pilot's Watch would. It is however, visually interesting and unique in design. For these reasons, I am giving a double score with an overall average.

RATING:

Functionality: 3

Aesthetic Appearance: 7

Overall Average: 5

CASEBACK:

Solid design with attractive ship motif. Engravings are crisp and clear, and text is un-cluttered. Screws ensure secure contact with case for waterproof seal, but do make removal for maintenence and inspection the realm solely of a professional, or someone with access to professional tools.

RATING: 9

CROWN:

The unprotected crown features slightly indented ridges as a gripping surface, and the logo. The ridges are not as easy to grip as they could be.

RATING: 4

DIAL:

One of the highlights of the Overseas. Color is a subtle off-white with minimal decoration. Dial pattern is elegant and, while certainly not as attention-grabbing as some dial patterns, still appealing and attractive. The date window being offset between the 4 and 5 markers means that the dial has a full complement of twelve hour markers, and numerals at the 'cardinal' points, as well as being somewhat unorthodox. A flawless aspect.

RATING: 10

HANDS & MARKERS:

Large, straight, 'sword-style hands are easy to read at a glance. Numerical markers are discrete, and blend in well with the dial, aiding with its uncomplicated appearance. Hour indices are marked with shaped 'baton' markers with luminous material. In addition to the profile shaping, the markers are also shaped at the sides, similar to bars of bullion, an unnecessary, but very nice detail.

RATING: 10

CRYSTAL:

Even without the AR coating of the gen, the flat crystal has very little glare or reflection. It does not distort the dial when viewed at an angle as domed crystals can.

Rating: 9 (would be 10 if AR coated)

BRACELET:

Another of the Oversea's key features. Interesting and unusual link shapes provide an extremely attractive bracelet. No sharp edges ensure a comfortable fit. Although etchings are crisp and clear, and the polished sections are eye catching, they would need some further work to provide a 100% mirror-smooth finish.

RATING: 8

CLASP:

A definite 'mixed bag'. Individually, the parts are well manufactured, closing flawlessly and securely. But, the swing arms of the clasp only have a limited range of movement, so could be damaged if accidentally over-flexed. Also, the release mechanism of the clasp is awkward and fiddly. While I have no fears of the clasp opening accidentally, it is by no means something which can be opened quickly or easily, and this seriously detracts from the high score the quality of the parts deserves.

RATING: 4

VERSATILITY:

This is where the Oveaseas truly excells. It's design is ambiguous, and while it has many design attributes of a 'sports watch', it also has the the elegance of a 'dress watch'. The watch goes equally well with jeans or a suit, and infact, glides under a fastened cuff with ease and no hint of snagging.

RATING: 10

UNSCORED COMPARISON TO OTHERS:

CONCLUSIONS:

POSSIBLE SCORE: 100

OVERALL SCORE: 73

Overall, this watch is very nice. For reasons I cannot really put my finger on, it does nothing to really make me want to wear it. I suspect this is down the aspects I personally found less than appealing. Incredibly elegant and stylish, but a few less that perfect points detract from what should be utter perfection.

As stated above, these opinions are solely my own, and others are free to agree or disagree with them as they wish. I hope this has been an informative review, thanks for reading

[cornerstone]

Very interesting review - cheers!

[Pix]

TJ,

that's an objective review and rating every feature/part is an original approach, as far as reps are concerned.

From what I see on your pics, we have the same case/dial/bracelet, let's say the same dress. I don't agree on the case lack of shape, but, hey, we can't have all the same tastes. As you mentionned, this watch is versatile as far as its usage is concerned, although I tend to consider it mainly as a dressy watch.

So except the ETA movement, we have the same watch, with a price difference of 130 dollars shipped... Or better said, yours is half the price !

That's really worth mentionning : Asian 21 jewels have no reason to be crappy or more defective than our (not always) Swiss ETAs, as long as there are no special complications... Usually the beatrate and power reserve is better on Swiss thingies, but I feel that's all (from my small experience). Some will say that the difference might pop up when you want to have the movement serviced. Well... I currently have my Overseas out "for maintenance" (working well but some parts are very used and deserve being changed, which make me assert it was not a brand new movement). Only the parts cost me 40 EUR, and even if it's a watchsmith buddy doing the job, I'll pay him something. So at the end I expect to pay something like 70 EUR, i.e. 100 dollars.

If I had an Asian version, I would just have thrown the watch away and bought an other one... As simple as that.

That's why I do encourage those who love the Overseas design to get the Asian one (this specific one, as there are others, worse). Exactly the same way I encouraged people to buy the Asian SFSO. Same case, same all, except the movement...

There is one point which might be important : TJ, is this a sapphire or mineral crystal ?

Also, it's surely worth mentionning that the rep is very accurate against the gen. The main known flaws on this case are :

- no AR (but not really useful nor noticeable) on the white dial

- the shape of the date window

- the thick cross, although I have the feeling that your cross is thinner than mine.

More or less, that's all I remember.

I saw the gen in an AD once, had the feeling it looked a bit bigger, but in fact I have no idea about the real dimensions. Anyway, the rep is really close.

Damn good bargain !

BTW, if you feel you won't wear the thing, I'm sure it would go in a minute in the sales section

And if I had not just spent one arm for my new Tissot, I would have ran to your dealer to get a backup Overseas. Might happen soon however.

Bravo for this review !

That's how I like our boards ! Pics, facts, sharing ideas on watches !

[By-Tor]

Great writeup man.

I've always liked the VC Overseas. I don't know why I have never purchased one though.

Beautiful, classy watch.

Edited July 25, 2007 by By-Tor

[dluddy]

Nice objective review

The VCO is one of my favorites.

[rek001]

Superb review, thanks for it!

However, this watch does nothing for me, looks like a Citiizen.

[TeeJay]

Thanks for the feedback, guys, I'm glad you enjoyed the review and found it objective

With regards the question about the crystal, I have no idea. It wasn't a specified feature on the sale, and the communication from the dealer was non-existent. As far as I can tell, it is the same watch case as sold by Joshua, so I would hazard a guess that it is a saphire crystal, as he advertizes. As far as I can tell, the only difference is that the movement is (most likely) Asian rather than an ETA.

In terms of me wearing or selling on the watch, I only intended it to be worn as a formal 'dress watch', it was never intended as a daily selection and in that regard, still prefer Omega as my 'brand of choice' (although as I type this, it does look pretty good with white shirt and jeans ) Aesthetically, it's a nice watch, emotionally, it doesn't do anything for me at all...

Thanks again for the feedback

[cornerstone]

However, this watch does nothing for me, looks like a Citiizen.

I'll buy whatever Citizen model that is!!!!!!

[Flavor Flav's pics]

[Pugwash]

I have considered this watch over and over. If I were to consider it, I'd have to have an ETA. I don't know why, but some watches just cry out for a swiss motor. However, comparisons to the IWC "My bezel fell off" Ingenieur aside, the one thing that would push me over the edge would be if this were available with hardcore AR sapphire.

Basically, imagine this to the same build quality as the Breitling SFSO Tinhaddock and I'd be there.

Great review, Teejay. I hope others take your cue and review some of their collection too.

[dluddy]

Citizen Don't see that one.

The VCO is a classic Genta design IMO. Works as great dressed up with a Suit as it does dressed down with jeans or shorts. I like the integrated bracelet/case design and think the bezel is a looker with the mix of brushed and polished surfaces and angles. The diamond cut bracelet is very comfortable and really adds to the design. The guilloche dial is classic VC and with a Ziggy lume on the markers, glows nicely.

Mine is ETA 2824 Pug with genuine Sapphire. It is from the first generation with some mods. I got the crystal Double AR from Chief which really sets ths dial off nicely.

[TomRiddle]

even without reading the review let me add my thoughts and then i'll go back and read this from teh start..

The VC overseas imo is one of the *best* reps you can get.. it's understated bling and always catchy plus it has the nice cross symbol..

the problem with the watch is that it's dressy.. it's not a regular beater, at least.. not for me.. but definitely, one of the best out there!

./true

[Pix]

TJ,

for the sapphire thing I know it's not a 100% reliable method, but one clue : just put a drop of water on the crystal. If the drop sits and keeps its shape, it might be sapphire. If it just spreads, then obviously something else (whatever it is).

Far from perfect method, which by the way I learnt (as for the rest) on this very board, but at least it has always confirmed what was advertized in the reps and gens I bought...with few exceptions, but always in the right direction (i.e. advertized as mineral, showing as sapphire).

I once read here "non chinese sapphire" from a dealer who never answered my question : is there a "cheap chinese sapphire" and an other type ??

I know there are some kind of "complexes" like Seiko's hardlex, which is mineral glass with a sapphire layer on the top. Makes it unscratchable, but not more robust than "plain saphhire".

I too like this mix of brushed/polished surfaces all around the watch and on the bracelet. That makes it sexy and eye catching, more than the case shape, indeed. And I would not think one second on switching the bracelet, which is IMO 60% of the watch's interest, for both aesthetics and comfort.

BTW, did you meet any trouble in resizing it ? Mine was terrible (stuck screws)

[TeeJay]

TJ,

for the sapphire thig I know it's not a 100% reliable method, but one clue : just put a drop of water on the crystal. If the drop sits and keeps its shape, it might be sapphire. If it just spreads, then obviously something else (whatever it is).

Far from perfect method, which by the way I learnt (as for the rest) on this very board, but at least it has always confirmed what was advertized in the reps and gens I bought...with few exceptions, but always in the right direction (i.e. advertized as mineral, showing as sapphire).

I once read here "non chinese sapphire" from a dealer who never answered my question : is there a "cheap chinese sapphire" and an other type ??

I know there are some kind of "complexes" like Seiko's hardlex, which is mineral glass with a sapphire layer on the top. Makes it unscratchable, but not more robust than "plain saphhire".

I too like this mix of brushed/polished surfaces all around the watch and on the bracelet. That makes it sexy and eye catching, more than the case shape, indeed. And I would not think one second on switching the bracelet, which is IMO 60% of the watch's interest, for both aesthetics and comfort.

BTW, did you meet any trouble in resizing it ? Mine was terrible (stuck screws)

Interesting test. I just put a drop of water on the crystal, and it remained perfectly round. No spreading at all... Saphire crystal it must be

Resizing... I wasn't able to do it myself, as my tools weren't compatible with the screws, but I took it to the watchsmiths who are dealing with my other watches, and they were able to do it while I waited

[TeeJay]

Oh, I forgot to say, the linear shearing on the words Vacheron Constantine on the first picture are due to me rotating the picture digitally to get the lines of the dial lining up with a the edges of the picture. As the shots under 'dial' show, there is no such distortion on the actual watch

[Pugwash]

Mine is ETA 2824 Pug with genuine Sapphire. It is from the first generation with some mods. I got the crystal Double AR from Chief which really sets ths dial off nicely.

Does the open lack of bezel not make the two rail marks (no AR where the crystal was held) more visible?

Anyway, this would sell more if it were out-of-the-box as good as the Steelfish. A lot of people don't like the concept of mods.

[b16a2]

Fantastic review Teejay! This is a watch I have been umming and arring over for a while now, and I could really do with a versatile watch to wear under a shirt or casually, I think this cuts the mustard in both repects!

[dluddy]

Does the open lack of bezel not make the two rail marks (no AR where the crystal was held) more visible?

Anyway, this would sell more if it were out-of-the-box as good as the Steelfish. A lot of people don't like the concept of mods.

Agreed. I don't notice the "So called" AR Lip marks on it at all....

[Pix]

(...)Vacheron Constantine (...)

TJ, you have no more excuse on that

Vacheron Constantin, won't pronounce as Valentine

So, the very same dress as the "Swiss" version... Why don't our dealers automatically have the alternative ? With the ETA getting scarce and/or expensive, that would definitely let us continue our hobby at affordable prices... I really don't care having an asian movement in watches that don't have that much complications. That's exactly the recipe that was applied to the SFSO, and it works : a great watch for less than 150 bucks shipped !

And if it dies, I'll buy an other one....

[AllergyDoc]

Helpful review, TJ.

The Overseas doesn't do much for me, either.

[TeeJay]

Fantastic review Teejay! This is a watch I have been umming and arring over for a while now, and I could really do with a versatile watch to wear under a shirt or casually, I think this cuts the mustard in both repects!

Thanks, I'm glad you found it usefull I would say that versatility is definitely one of the VCO's greatest strengths.

TJ, you have no more excuse on that

Vacheron Constantin, won't pronounce as Valentine

So, the very same dress as the "Swiss" version... Why don't our dealers automatically have the alternative ? With the ETA getting scarce and/or expensive, that would definitely let us continue our hobby at affordable prices... I really don't care having an asian movement in watches that don't have that much complications. That's exactly the recipe that was applied to the SFSO, and it works : a great watch for less than 150 bucks shipped !

And if it dies, I'll buy an other one....

Because then they wouldn't get as much money out of folks

To be honest, I think the best option would be to buy the watch with an Asian movement (which, in my experience, keep better times than an ETA) and if/when it dies, just buy an ETA movement to replace it with Or just buy a new watch

[Pugwash]

TJ, you have no more excuse on that

Vacheron Constantin, won't pronounce as Valentine

It does in French.

[TeeJay]

Helpful review, TJ.

The Overseas doesn't do much for me, either.

Glad you liked it

I will be fair, and say that the watch is growing on me, but that's because I love the dial. The squared off case though, I don't think I'll ever like... I'm tempted to try modifying a leather strap to fit as the SS is more 'casual' than 'smart'

[Richard Tracy]

Helpful review, TJ.

The Overseas doesn't do much for me, either.

That was my opinion as well, until I purchased a cheap one in the trading forum when I was bored

one day, just to see what all the hype was about.

I was very surprised ! Even that cheap one was beautiful !

I knew then that photos just don't do this watch justice,... it's one of those you have

to hold, to wear to appreciate all the fine details that VC labored into the style of this

gorgeous piece.. !

By the way,. Fantastic Review TeeJay !

[Steve G]

I'll buy whatever Citizen model that is!!!!!!

[Flavor Flav's pics]

Flavor's pics but now my watch Thanks Flavor...still love it to death.

[cornerstone]

Flavor's pics but now my watch Thanks Flavor...still love it to death.

I'll swap you a Citizen for it!!

Great watch you have!!