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Have you Tried DIY Re-Lume? Kits start @ $29.99


NotASolder

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Have you Tried DIY Re-Lume? Kits start @ $29.99

I justnoticed that the full DIY kits from noctluma (sic) run less than 30 bucks and come complete with your choice of two lumes AND a tint of your choie.

The site also says you can make the lume thicker or thinner so your application is either paint like or more like applying paste/butter (I am paraphrasing here).

Seems to me this is a good combo.

Have you Tried DIY Re-Lume?

How easy is it to remove the old one from Rolex marker? From Panerai Sandwich dials?

I would like to hear about your success AND failures.

Also. Could you point me to good For Dummies... posts.

Thanks :laugh:

Edited by NotASolder
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Ive had quite good results with hands on a PO and SMP and did a SFSO dial and hands that turned out well.

I've made a complete [censored] of a PO dial in the past though, don't ask for pics.....Im too ashamed.

I've heard quite good things about NoctilUmina.

Never attempted a Rolex or Panerai, I've heard that the sandwich dials are among the easier to relume.

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@ hyster,

How did you get the old lume out? Did it scrape off like dried paint? Like a fresh paste?

How easy was to 'clean up' the part well enough for the new lume to stick?

Common post 'ur pics!!!

I remove the old lume from the dial with a pin and toothpicks, you need to be very careful.

The hands I removed and gently scrapped of the old lume from the back with a razor, removed the rest with a tooth pick.

It is very easy to scratch your hands or dial, you always have to be conscious of what could mark them.

The old lume can be quite hard and it is time consuming to remove, Its tempting to hurry, don't.

My advice is don't attempt it on anything you are not prepaired to damage and happily put it down to experience.

When you have had a go it makes you look at The Zigmeister and Vac's work in a whole new light, I would love to know how they manage to make such a neat job.

I might post a pic later, not the PO dial though :D

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@slartibartfast,

This IS the stuff ***SOME MODDERS, SOMEWHERE...MAYBE*** use (besides the 'other' brand that's mentioned in the color comparo).

The hard parts are:

Cracking case, must have case open tool. I don't.

Taking out the crown, must know how. I don't.

Taking out the movement, must know how. I don't.

Taking out the hands. Must have special tool. I don't.

Scraping/cutting/filing out old lume without destroying/loosening markers/dials/hans. Must know how. I don't.

Painting the new lume in. Must have the artistry/skill. I don't.

So yes $30 bucks gets you in the door, plenty of fun to have with a custom violet or orange lume mix. I would probably start luming my flashligh bezels, car keys, pocket knife oppening thumb stud's, etc.

I just want to see more of our dear members experience before I take the plunge and start playing, I mean Working, with this material.

Edited by NotASolder
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This IS the stuff our modders use (besides the 'other' brand that's mentioned in the color comparo).

Wrong.

This is NOT the stuff I use, so don't make statements when you don't know the facts.

I have always, and will continue to use, the same product the genuine watches use - Super Luminova. There is a reason you only see "L Swiss L" on dials and not "N Swiss N", it's called quality, you get what you pay for...

RG

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I would rather wait for The Zigmeister (which i am doing now) to relume my parts. im steady of hand, and more than capible of doing a decent job I'm sure, but you cant account for , nor recreate "the magic touch". it's what makes a good job an amazing job.

just my 2cents...

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I would rather wait for ziggy (which i am doing now) to relume my parts. im steady of hand, and more than capible of doing a decent job I'm sure, but you cant account for , nor recreate "the magic touch". it's what makes a good job an amazing job.

just my 2cents...

Oh great, now you put the pressure on me and made me nervous... :) thanks...

Applying lume can be learned, but it's a steep and costly learning curve. I ruined more than one dial before I got the hang of it, and I would conservativly state that it took me a good number of dials before I really started to develop the sills I have now, over many months of practice.

If Noctiluma was so great, it would be used by the genuine manufactures, I know of none that use it...

I would say it took me a year before I felt I knew what I was really doing. TWP stated that he ruined 70 dials before he got it right...economics would say it's sometimes better to leave certain things to others to do. Sure I can work on my car, but do I really want to spend the whole day in the yard, or pay someone to do it for me, with all the correct tools, etc... while I ride my motorcycle and enjoy myself... I'll opt for the motorcycle ride.

RG

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Wrong.

This is NOT the stuff I use, so don't make statements when you don't know the facts.

I have always, and will continue to use, the same product the genuine watches use - Super Luminova. There is a reason you only see "L Swiss L" on dials and not "N Swiss N", it's called quality, you get what you pay for...

RG

Missleading, badly phrased post edited.

I believe what you use, Super Luminova, is what I've got from the factory in my +/- 4 year Seiko Black Monster. Still as bright as the day I got it.

As to your later post The Zigmeister z, I am looking at this as a hobby to go along with the interest in watches. I'm sure if any of my EDC watches ever needs a PRO dial re-lume, I'm going to be looking to PM an expert like you.

I'm sure the more replies a thread like this gets, the more forumites realize this is not a skill one will pick up over the weekend.

:)

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To anyone thinking of DIY lume, please please take my advice and don't try it on your precious watches until you've practised on something else.

You wouldn't try and respray your car, just because you had the paint and a spray gun would you? No, you'd let a professional do it.

One slip and your watch is ruined. Even sandwich dials can mess up - trust me, I've got two messed up 217 dials to prove it (and had to shell out another $100 for two new ones). My attempts at luming have cost me more than $300 and more pain, frustration and heartache than you can imagine.

I know its fun to try new things but I agree, if you really want to try it don't go near a watch - practise practise practise on something else.

My clumsy forays into DIY watch repair and luming have meant that my rep graveyard is far fuller than my precious box of complete watches.

Save up and get a professional to do it. You won't regret it.

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Missleading, badly phrased post edited.

Understood, thanks...

I believe what you use, Super Luminova, is what I've got from the factory in my +/- 4 year Seiko Black Monster. Still as bright as the day I got it.

As to your later post ziggy z, I am looking at this as a hobby to go along with the interest in watches. I'm sure if any of my EDC watches ever needs a PRO dial re-lume, I'm going to be looking to PM an expert like you.

I'm sure the more replies a thread like this gets, the more forumites realize this is not a skill one will pick up over the weekend.

:)

Yes, I have been and will continue to use Super Luminova. Sure it's probably 2-3 times more expensive than alternatives, but as you point out, SL never wears out, or gets old. It's permanent once applied, it lasts a lifetime.

I would never consider myself an expert, I think I can hold my own with watch repairs and movement servicing, as well as with lume, but since it's like art and can vary, only a machine can do what I consider expert application of lume.

With a background as an artist, I can say that your correct, you won't pick up luming skills over the weekend. Actually, watchsmithing anything takes time and practice, even for a seemingly simple job like removing a movement from the case, you need the tooling, the dexterity of using screwdrivers and tweezers, the hand eye coordination of working under a loupe, knowledge of how to handle the movement, cleanliness, etc.... It doesnt' happen overnight, but can be learned.

Luming is something all together different, and takes a lot of practice to be proficent and not ruin stuff.

If your going to try it out, I would suggest a Super Lume kit not the Noctilumia one. You may as well start with something on your side, low price = low quality. Give yourself the best chance of success by using the best product out there.

I'll never do a DIY on luming, I have gotten enough hate mail from members who try to remove their handwind or auto movement by following my posts, and get mad at me for them screwing up the keyless works...imagine the chaos from a lume post...no thanks :)

RG

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I remember probably around 2004, taking a look at the TimeZone Watch School basics and smiling at the fact that thay had a whole class posted up about using a screwdriver.

Of course by the time I had read through the 'class' I was still smiling, but for a different reason. I was now a little bit wiser.

Understood, thanks...

*snip*

I'll never do a DIY on luming, I have gotten enough hate mail from members who try to remove their handwind or auto movement by following my posts, and get mad at me for them screwing up the keyless works...imagine the chaos from a lume post...no thanks :)

RG

I would have never thought of that.

Hate mail from DIY threads.

It would make for a good thread title :)

Edited by NotASolder
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I have to say, after reading over this entire thread, that although this stuff might be crap (to paraphrase some of the ideas presented) as a luminous agent, it might be worth the $30 or so just to get and ruin a couple of $20 watches. I mean, *if* you're thinking of trying this out as a hobby, you'll probably ruin 2 or 3 watches before you get one that's even acceptable from arm's length. Forget about being good at that point. So if you're going to practice on a crappy watch that you don't care about, why use the good stuff? When (if) you get good, spend the $100 or whatever SL costs and then do up your favourite PAM or whatever.

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I have to say, after reading over this entire thread, that although this stuff might be crap (to paraphrase some of the ideas presented) as a luminous agent, it might be worth the $30 or so just to get and ruin a couple of $20 watches. I mean, *if* you're thinking of trying this out as a hobby, you'll probably ruin 2 or 3 watches before you get one that's even acceptable from arm's length. Forget about being good at that point. So if you're going to practice on a crappy watch that you don't care about, why use the good stuff? When (if) you get good, spend the $100 or whatever SL costs and then do up your favourite PAM or whatever.

I guess this is the first time I consider myself lucky to have a crap Canal Street Yachtmaster. I have completely torn the thing down for the fun of it and I plan on using the dial as my practice dial. After luming it the first time, I'll give the dial a dip in paint remover, clean it off and have a go at it again. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

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I have to say, after reading over this entire thread, that although this stuff might be crap (to paraphrase some of the ideas presented) as a luminous agent, it might be worth the $30 or so just to get and ruin a couple of $20 watches. I mean, *if* you're thinking of trying this out as a hobby, you'll probably ruin 2 or 3 watches before you get one that's even acceptable from arm's length. Forget about being good at that point. So if you're going to practice on a crappy watch that you don't care about, why use the good stuff? When (if) you get good, spend the $100 or whatever SL costs and then do up your favourite PAM or whatever.

Using cheap luminous powder instead SL to ruin cheap dials and getting experience is a good idea, it is exactly what I did (I just used Ready Set Glow pigments rather than Noctilumina).

Just be aware that the grain of the powder and the density and look of the varnish may be not the same as SL.

Btw, my obvious conclusion was that there is nothing like SL and noone like The Zigmeister.

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Although obviously superlume is 'the best' product out there, there are the tinting kits this place has, I for one would quite like to use some different colors for my dials, make them look a bit different.

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I would say it took me a year before I felt I knew what I was really doing. TWP stated that he ruined 70 dials before he got it right...economics would say it's sometimes better to leave certain things to others to do. Sure I can work on my car, but do I really want to spend the whole day in the yard, or pay someone to do it for me, with all the correct tools, etc... while I ride my motorcycle and enjoy myself... I'll opt for the motorcycle ride.

Nicely put. I am in agreement with Zig. I used to put GU8F into my lume, but have abandoned it due to poor results. Tritec is the only lume to use.

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I may sound weird to you but...

I never re-lume my watches (except for sandwich dials)

Why is lume important for you? Do you live in dark conditions and need to read the watch under lack of light? :)

What will you do if you own a gen. tritium panerai? :p

OK, if a watch comes machine-superlumed out of box. It is good... But re-luming a watch ruins it in a way... Leaves unavoidable imperfections on dial/hands due to hand-work.

There was a warning on The Zigmeister's price list like this: "you'll have to accept variation difference in lume on dial and hands because I do it by hand, not a machine"

My watch can go 3 minutes ahead per day, that's not good but that is not a very big problem for me... Because usually I don't wear same watch for days... But I cannot live with imperfections on the dial, those are bugging my eyes all the time :)

my .02

Edited by deepsea
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