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Ruby's Heritage What a Price!


jeroen1985

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Doubt the ETA is genuine ETA, it's most probably a hybrid movement or an asian 'clone'.

Doubt and probability are two different things.

I bought my Breit. superocean heritage, Swiss ETA 2824 for $240 ................3 months ago.

I have opened the case and it is just that.

Please do not doubt , that there are other dealers willing to drop their prices for a sale.

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I did not know Ruby has a website, would someone care to share the link?

Someone with posts of almost 1000, and been a member for over 2 years, and you do not know that

Ruby has a web site.................. OH MAN, where have you been , and just what are you doing.?

Try http://nicereplica.com/article.php?T=How%20To%20Order

Edit. the Breitling Superocean Heritage is not listed on Ruby`s site here.

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Someone with posts of almost 1000, and been a member for over 2 years, and you do not know that

Ruby has a web site.................. OH MAN, where have you been , and just what are you doing.?

Try http://nicereplica.com/article.php?T=How%20To%20Order

Edit. the Breitling Superocean Heritage is not listed on Ruby`s website, OR on her site here.

never mind, my gibbon brain found it....

Edited by asiparks
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Someone with posts of almost 1000, and been a member for over 2 years, and you do not know that

Ruby has a web site.................. OH MAN, where have you been , and just what are you doing.?

this is too funny -- i had no idea ruby has a website either :bangin:

don't worry, you're in good company dvn :victory:

deltatahoe

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Doubt and probability are two different things.

I bought my Breit. superocean heritage, Swiss ETA 2824 for $240 ................3 months ago.

I have opened the case and it is just that.

Please do not doubt , that there are other dealers willing to drop their prices for a sale.

Hey Rod, yes I agree some sellers are willing to drop their prices for a sale. However I'm not sure if you read the post by EuroTimez, but many clone movements look almost exactly the same as a genuine ETA movement. I don't know much about movements but these good clones have the stamp etc. He said that most people simply wouldn't be able to tell by opening the caseback and looking at it.

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You got 3 grades,

1.Copy ETA

2. Second grade (recycled, old stock, hybrid between ETA and Copy ETA, rusty ones etc)

3. NEW ETA (this is the one I sell).

At 240 usd, and at 219 usd if I look at my buy-in rates they won't have anything left... 219 is out of the question!! The 2824-2 are very expensive more than the 2836-2 so IMHO I doubt it is a gen or it must be old-stock/recycled....

If Rodwc would take some pictures of the movement, I'll take a look at it... because COPY ETA also have stamps and engravings on them... I need high quality pics from different sides tho... But the best way according to my watchmaker who opens every single watch-case-back, said the best indication is to look at the ROTOR, take off the rotor and you will see the difference if you know where to look for...

But at 219 usd that is close to impossible! I just have my doubts, perhaps some dealers would like to do volunteer work :p or maybe they have a good heart :) who knows?! I could be wrong....

You got 3 grades,

1.Copy ETA

2. Second grade (recycled, old stock, hybrid between ETA and Copy ETA, rusty ones etc)

3. NEW ETA (this is the one I sell).

At 240 usd, and at 219 usd if I look at my buy-in rates they won't have anything left... 219 is out of the question!! The 2824-2 are very expensive more than the 2836-2 so IMHO I doubt it is a gen or it must be old-stock/recycled....

If Rodwc would take some pictures of the movement, I'll take a look at it... because COPY ETA also have stamps and engravings on them... I need high quality pics from different sides tho... But the best way according to my watchmaker who opens every single watch-case-back, said the best indication is to look at the ROTOR, take off the rotor and you will see the difference if you know where to look for...

But at 219 usd that is close to impossible! I just have my doubts, perhaps some dealers would like to do volunteer work :p or maybe they have a good heart :) who knows?! I could be wrong....

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You got 3 grades,

1.Copy ETA

2. Second grade (recycled, old stock, hybrid between ETA and Copy ETA, rusty ones etc)

3. NEW ETA (this is the one I sell).

At 240 usd, and at 219 usd if I look at my buy-in rates they won't have anything left... 219 is out of the question!! The 2824-2 are very expensive more than the 2836-2 so IMHO I doubt it is a gen or it must be old-stock/recycled....

If Rodwc would take some pictures of the movement, I'll take a look at it... because COPY ETA also have stamps and engravings on them... I need high quality pics from different sides tho... But the best way according to my watchmaker who opens every single watch-case-back, said the best indication is to look at the ROTOR, take off the rotor and you will see the difference if you know where to look for...

But at 219 usd that is close to impossible! I just have my doubts, perhaps some dealers would like to do volunteer work :p or maybe they have a good heart :) who knows?! I could be wrong....

Sure, when you say high quality pics , what resolution and size do you need ?

Don`t really want to take the hands and dial off.

We could all very well learn something here.

P6040136.jpg

P6040145.jpg

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P6040148.jpg

P6040141.jpg

P6040142.jpg

P6040137.jpg

P6040138.jpg

P6040139.jpg

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Hey Rod, yes I agree some sellers are willing to drop their prices for a sale. However I'm not sure if you read the post by EuroTimez, but many clone movements look almost exactly the same as a genuine ETA movement. I don't know much about movements but these good clones have the stamp etc. He said that most people simply wouldn't be able to tell by opening the caseback and looking at it.

So, are we better off buying this: http://nicereplica.com/pro_detail.php?ProId=396 the Asian 21J model??? What do people think? Good buy? Junk? Keep off?

Thanks!

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this is a very interesting thread; i'm looking forward to seeing chris' response :g:

deltatahoe

Still waiting Chris.

This is something which affects every buyer of a , so called SWISS ETA 2824-2 movement.

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@ eurotimez.

sorry but I don`t think this is quite fair to the members here by not replying to the above posts,

especially after making statements regarding the Breitling Heritage 2824 eta movement.

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Interesting thread.

I traded for a new SOH back in Jan. I LOVE this watch. One of my all time favorites.

One problem. From the get go the movement was suspect.

Crown was 'wobbly', and 'ratchety'..., the watch would stop in the middle of the day.. .strange for an 'automatic'.

Worked very marginally for 8 weeks, then eventually froze.

I always liked the Heritage enough to send it out for service, but now I have no choice.

It seems odd that a case and dial from a single factory would have so many different movement variations.

I agree with the sentiment that says, 'Why buy an eta model of this watch for 250.00 and then pay to have it serviced, when you could pay half the cost for the Asian 21J, and then have IT serviced.

After all, a well serviced 21J will probably last just as long as an eta. Right.??

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It seems odd that a case and dial from a single factory would have so many different movement variations.

I agree with the sentiment that says, 'Why buy an eta model of this watch for 250.00 and then pay to have it serviced, when you could pay half the cost for the Asian 21J, and then have IT serviced.

After all, a well serviced 21J will probably last just as long as an eta. Right.??

Possibly, but at this stage the majority of us don`t know if we actually received a Swiss eta 2824-2.

"But the best way according to my watchmaker who opens every single watch-case-back, said the best indication is to look at the ROTOR, take off the rotor and you will see the difference if you know where to look for..."

Euro-timez made this statement, but as yet hasn`t backed it up with any factual points, and at this stage the

statement is looking nothing more than a sales ploy.

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