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Tshoot sent me his 5th gen 42mm PO to take care of the common ETA keyless issue. I'll confess that I had a few different motives: one, I wanted to help out of course, but also I wanted to see one of these 5th gen PO's with my own eyes, I wanted to put together a new tutorial on how to fix this issue since it's so common, and I was curious if the watch had indeed been serviced in China like the dealer said that it was. It's been a while since one of these tutorials was posted and when I looked at one of the old ones, some of the links for the pics were broken. So here it is, out of the box: I opened up the caseback to find what looks like a nice, nickel plated Swiss ETA 2824 You can tell it's Swiss by looking at the shock absorber. There are three notches there Three tabs hold the movement in. I pulled them out and put them, the screws and the movement holder itself in the caseback. I've learned from painful experience that one of the most critical things you can do while working on these things is to keep organized; the screws mostly look like they're the same size but some will not interchange. I get ready to pull off the hands, using a dial protector (actually a cut-up business card--Bergeron dial protectors are the world's biggest rip off) Hands off I put the dial underneath the case so that it can't get scratched/something dropped on it, and put all of the parts I don't need for the moment aside. Next the datewheel must come off, but I'll note that it looks like a gen ETA white-on-black date disc, or if it's a rep the printing is very nice, bright and crisp There are a few ways to take the datewheel off, but if you're going to do the keyless anyway the easiest way is to just remove this cover Next will come the keyless works cover. In this pic the screw that holds it on is already out, but the keyless works cover is still installed. If you've done this a few times you can already see the source of the keyless works problem. Also, you can see the "proof" that some Chinese watchmaker serviced this movement--he left a piece of blue lint in it (next to the dial feet hole at 2 o'clock) Keyless works cover off. You can see that the yoke, which is supposed to be riding in the groove of the castle wheel, has been dislodged. This comes about because theyoke sits on top of the stem release plate, and if you push the stem release in too far, it will pop the yoke out and over the groove. The castle wheel will then get pushed all the way to the time-setting position and the yoke will get trapped behind it. Another angle and with some labels So you just lift it gently with a tweezers or a pin and set it down where it should go. If you're lucky, this is the only thing that's messed up. However, the hack lever also rides in the castle wheel groove, so if your watch won't hack it's worth taking the castle wheel out and making sure the tab of the hack lever is in the right place. This is what it should look like and with the keyless works cover reinstalled. I don't know the name for this part, but this thing needs to be pushed over until the little nubbin can catch the three grooves in it. This is the thing that gives you three clicks when you pull the stem out. It should go like this As an aside, this movement is not quite the same as the 2836 that seems to be used it a lot more reps. The 2824 doesn't have a day function, so the date discs and some other things won't be the same, but the keyless works is exactly the same for the two movements. Here it is next to a 2836 Now I reinstall the date disc and I find that the date flips correctly and the time will set, but the movement won't hack. Oops, I forgot to do one little thing. Date disc comes back off You have to set the little finger-like spring at the top of the keyless works cover to push on the side of the yoke. Set properly (I know it's hard to see, but what you do is take a pin and push it gently to the outside until it clicks) OK, now the date disc goes back on and everything works. Time to reinstall the dial. You put it in the holes and close the dial feet (this pic has the dial feet open, just swing them inward) I noticed that the cool-looking Omega rotor is actually just a regular rotor with a stamped metal sticker on it, you can see it peeling slightly here If you want to keep it (I would, it looks cool) it might be a good idea to remove it and make it more secure. What I would do is remove the rotor from the watch entirely, remove the sticker and re-glue it, then reinstall the rotor. All you have to do to remove the rotor is take out the one screw, it's easy. Probably not a good idea to try and do it while the rotor is installed, glue near movements is always a bad idea! Anyway. Dial is back on turn the crown until the date flips, then install the hands. This is midnight, and it can be tricky to get right. Even though I was careful, the date flips at 11:54 after a couple of tries I get it to flip exactly at midnight There are the tools I use, btw: a Presto hands-puller, a set of grocery store tweezers, a set of Delrin tweezers (so as to not scratch the dial/hands) and a hand setter. That's less than $30 or so worth of tools, you don't need to invest in an entire workshop to do this. The other tools I used were a screwdriver and a pin I got out of a shirt. I check to make sure the hands are parallel and not touching, and that the hour hand isn't touching the dial Then I install the second hand (it doesn't have to go on any particular way) and move the hour hand underneath it to make sure it has clearance Now it's time to put everything back together. The case has been upside down the whole time and I've been careful not to touch the inside, but I'll blow it out anyway to make sure there's no lint then I drop the movement in and line it up roughly. The hole for the stem needs to face the tube, of course, and usually the movement holder has a certain way it needs to go as well. I like to install the stem before I screw the movement down, for a few reasons. If there's any play at all, it helps to move the movement as far as it will go to the tube side to make installing the stem easier. Also, this is the place where you'll mess up the keyless again if you're not careful. and now you'll want to install movement tabs. This should be easy, but you still need to be careful! I've broken hairsprings before, when I was putting in the one by the balance wheel and my screwdriver slipped. Movement tabs in, put some grease on the seals, reinstall the caseback and here is the repaired watch next to my UPO.

Just past midnight & wearing 1 of my Subs

100% The modern Milgauss isn't one which appeals to me personally (I'm not keen on the second hand, the mixed lume colors or the amount of mirror polishing for my own personal wear), but, I do think it is an incredibly well replicated watch, and equally, a very nice piece, infact, I'd go so far as to list it as one of the best of recent replications Given the past pieces you've had in your collection, where you live, and the work you do, I think it's a piece which would totally fit in to all those criteria, and is definitely the piece for you

i spoke to josh about a few things he says his end is clear its the factories and shipping side which are still getting hit says its a nightmare trying to get watches out so orders are going to take sometime he has a repair of mine which could be some months before its returned to me think i will be holding off ordering anything and if i get the thirst i will just buy from our sales area

Maybe my eyes are tricking me, but is the DR dial brownish? I can't make it out from the pics. A nice detail, he used the Mk II coronet on the dial, and Mk IIs are usually the ones that go tropical.

Oh you dont want to Drink it Ziggy (I can write that because i am a good looking that i can write how i like)

Added gen crystal and insert now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use taxis everytime I catch a plane (Because parking is $49 a day), or go out for a drink. But yes, expect to pay only about $500/week in the burbs for three bedrooms (excluding utilites and all furnishings except an oven and stovetiop). The bottom line, as OP requested, is that real-world cost of living is insanely high here. We pay too much for everything. If you travel anywhere else on earth, this becomes plainly obvious. What i didn't mention is that we also have one of the highest standards of living on the planet, and highly reputable health and education systems. We also have beautiful women, an awe-inspring and pristine environment, and great weather.

Of course that is not to mention that Suburb costs are far below inner city living and that any local pub is full to the brim of the laconic, larrikin easy going Aussies. Taxi's? Why would you take a taxi if you were planning to live here? I personally see the inside of a taxi maybe once a year. @ACSIWhite funnel webs are NSW, we have Redbacks, plus Tiger snakes, brown snakes, copperheads, red belly blacks etc etc... Ken

Australia holds four of the world's most expensive citiies. Melbourne Brisbane and Sydney are more expensive to live in than any city in America. The cost of living in these cities is notably higher than New York. Expect to pay between 700-1000AUD (that's 1050USD) a week for inner city living of a decent standard. Expect to pay 50AUD (53USD) for 10 mile taxi ride - note that taxi driver won't know the way so you'll have to direct him, and also that he probably won't speak English very well, so buy a gps. Expect to pay nearly 5AUD for a coffee anywhere in the country except Melbourne (though it will be quite a good coffee). Expect to be greeted with a surly, contemptible attitude when you're paying top dollar for your goods and services. Expect to pay about 40 dollars to feed two people at a cheap cafe style place. Expect to pay a lot more everywhere else. Expect that that figure doesn't include drinks. Again, this service will likely be delivered with a bad attitude as well. Expect to pay $25 or more to feed two people at Mcdonalds or Burger King, and expect to pay another 50c if you want an extra ketchup that they give you for free at home. Don't expect kind or helpful replies when asking for anything out of the norm. If you like or use any Australian products (such as Speedo brand swimwear, surf gear like billabong, quicksilver, rip curl etc, tim tams, Ugg boots or beer) bring them with you, Because those australian products will be a lot cheaper in your country. For example you will be able to buy a pair of billabong boardshorts there for 40-50 dollars, here they'll likely cost you 70-90usd. Whereas you'll pay 12-15USD for Australian Speedo swim goggles in America, here you'll pay about $25-28. If you use any technology, expecially software, bring that with you too beacause it'll will be twice as expensive here. These are not anecdotes, these are facts. This is an anecdote: Expect the laconic, larrikin, easy going reputation that aussies have traditionally had to be long gone. Replaced with a pimply faced sense of entitlement and a nation of stoic rulemakers and killjoys. Here, you'll find lazy, stubborn, aggressive and unhelpful people. http://www.abc.net.a...e-world/3831324 http://afr.com/p/opi...349vy835bpSMgBL http://www.theage.co...0428-1xs16.html As-Salamu Alaykum mate.

Be on the lookout for funnel-web spiders :S Or is that just in Sydney area?

I'm a Melbourne boy. First question is where are you moving from? If it is the states then financially there wont be a whole lot of difference, in fact the AUD is still a tad stronger the USD, so you should be able to look at your earnings at home compared with what has been offered here basically on a one to one ratio. Melbourne has always ranked very well in the worlds most liveable cities surveys too so there is much to see and do. Which suburb would you be relocating too or do you get a fair bit of choice on that? Hit me up with any questions via PM if you want and I will do my best to answer them. Ken

I do like the fonts better on the white, and I would have gone that way but for two things. The top of the 12:00 triangle looks slightly curved, and from what I can suss out from the photos online, it should be flat like the black dial. Second is the "E" in "ROLEX", its middle "leg" should be above center like your black dial. Stephano's photos notwithstanding. I wonder if that was just a "gilt thing"? edit: also look at "certifiEd" and "mastEr" and "chronometEr". They're apparently all different.