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Ooooooo that Compressor is nice! Here's my paltry contribution to the Wristapalooza....

Pretty lame Quality on the Omega!! Nanug, yours is worn out, big difference between one that's worn from use and one that's crappy from the factory. I would rather have that old well worn Sub than the brand new Omega any day.

I figure if you can read a newspaper through the gap it's time to think about replacing the endlink.

v3 and v4, the sel part and first link can't be folded like gen. V5 can. There are review of it, search buddy tc never mention it but its new version. Also on v6, crown and bezel teeth is new version. but I guess he is too busy to post. Lol

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Wristshot of the big boy Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met behulp van Tapatalk

Swiss Legend Challenger for today!

Baron day today, sun is shinning dare we believe Spring is here Have a great day guys AJ

Beautiful watch and a nice picture. Here's mine

What is the folding flaw? I have v3 and v4 and gen and do not understand? V3 bracelet with v4 clasp remains the best in my opinion, but I have no idea what a v5 is?

Fraggle42, mine for some reason doesn't glow as it should and yes you can have it relumed, best to have it applied to the bottom of the bezel insert Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

The problem with many 15xx rolex movements is high mileage and low maintenance and you can not easily tell just by looking. A few things to look for on a movement that is still together and running: 1...Rounded teeth on the red anodized reversers. The teeth should be squared off and all red with no aluminum showing. 2...Worn teeth on the intermediate winding (transmission) wheel. This is the goldtone wheel that runs between the two red reversers. They do not cost much but often show a lot of wear. 3...The movement plates under the winding rotor should not be scored from the rotor rubbing them. Rub marks are a sign of a worn rotor axle, rotor weight loose on the axle, or a broken jewel. 4...Screw heads are an indication of how much a mvt has been worked on and/or how careful the repair guy was. This does not indicate problems in the rest of the mvt however. 5...Rust anywhere, and it usually starts around the setting parts because of a bad crown. Look at the set bridge, stem etc. 6...On the dial side...look closely where the mainspring barrel arbor runs in the main plate. There is no bushing or jewel and the arbor will wear the hole in the plate out of round if it the mvt has not been c/o every now and then. There is no easy fix for this if the hole is worn and it can cause the ms barrel to rub the plate and give a low running reserve. 7...If the movement is where you can see it running...see if the balance motion is 'lively'. 'Lazy' motion can be a sign of a dirty mvt. hairspring dragging on something, weak or broken ms etc. Sometimes it can be caused by the second hand rubbing the crystal, hitting the minute hand etc. 8...See if there is still a fair amount of resistance on the crown when setting the time. Very little friction is a sign of a loose cannon pinion, easy to fix but also easy to screw up. 9...Make sure the mvt runs in all positions and has lively balance motion in all of them. Lazy motion in one or more positions is usually the hairspring rubbing or a worn or broken balance staff or jewel. 10...Watch out for movement plating 'blistered' from harsh cleaning solution, it may run Ok but it will always look bad and be worth a little bit less $$. 11...Look for black 'specks' on or down inside the movement...it is dirt. 12...If the mvt looks real good and runs Ok...it is usually Ok. 13...Do not believe the old story "I just had it cleaned" unless you really trust the seller because this means about as much in a buying situation as the guy who has a dead quartz watch for sale that "Just needs a battery." Otoh...in reality, the appearance of a watch mvt can not tell the whole story. I have an old blistered 1520 with screws that look like they fell out of the Gate Hinges of Hell and it runs like a Champion. A nice 1520 is probably worth around $1000US and a 'ruffy' is worth less.

Swiss ETA:) Are gens just getting cheaper or reps too expensive?

Barney's Outlet, Saks Off Fifth, Nordtsrom Rack, etc - why pay what's in many cases 70-80% of gen cost for an item that looks nothing like the real thing?

Hahahaha, yes, this forum has that kind of effect on people Before coming here I was happy with no watch at all. Now I've got too many watches, too few money and can't stop visiting this place and lots of others.

Hi I'll introduce myself properly shortly and give a full breakdown of my watch box in due course! Suffice to say that I've been watching from the shadows on here for a while, muddling along with my own projects with the help of a very friendly and capable watchmaker. However, now we've hit a wall and could really use some help! We've been attempting to build a 5500 Explorer Franken from the following parts: - Gen 15000 Case / Back / Bezel - Gen Crown / Tube - Tropic 13 Crystal (slightly loose fit, but closet I could find - needed a bit of glue to keep it in place) - ETA 2824 Movement - Yuki 5500 Explorer dial (with feet removed) - Yuki ETA Hands - Raffles Time No. 2 Movement Ring Now all has gone together just fine so far, with the exception of the last item (the movement ring). The ring fits the case and ETA movement perfectly, but there doesn't seem to be anything for the case clamps to fit onto (i.e. there is no groove in the case). It looks like the original movement (3035) fits in the case with no movement ring, and that the screws on the movement holds into the case thread. Not sure what to do next - ideally looking for a DIY solution that doesn't involve lots of specialised machining! Has any one else succeed in one of these builds? Would one of Stilty's rings work better that the Raffles version? Apologies to arrive with lots of questions... Any suggestions gratefully received...