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Alright formal warning time for Bart and Eunomians! You guys need to post a disclaimer before you put up pictures of your watches! One page back, there I was innocently looking at watch pictures, click ... click ... yawn ... click ... and then suddenly, unexpectedly, out of nowhere.... BOOM!!!!!!!!! the Daytona and Patek leaped out and grabbed my retinas. I was struck dumb. Catatonic. I spilled my coffee, ruined another good keyboard, sitting drooling like Pavlov's dog. Motionless, unable to move, think or breathe... or respond when my boss snuck up behind me. Now I live in a cardboard box and my only possession is a candle, so I can lie staring at the photos of those two gorgeous watches. But I'll be okay. I always bounce back.

Hi all, My first post, and my first build, it's been a little while in the making, but I think it came together nicely. It's a fairly standard build from what I've gathered, here are the specs: JMB case (+ engravings) Clark's tudor hands gen spec tube gen 1601 crown whoopy dial (lumed by Everest Watchworks) a2824-2 movement WSO 455b endlinks tiger concept bracelet (not great, but okay for now, will replace later perhaps) I was having a hell of a time centering the dial, as the dial seat in the new JMB cases measures 29.2, and the whoopy dial is gen spec 28mm. That extra millimeter is a pain. I cut some shims out of a razorblade and wedged those in between the case and movement spacer, and by my eye the dial is mostly centered at this point. It's been bugging me, though (maybe I just need to get over that) and I'm thinking about upgrading to a gen 160XX case for a dial seat that fits the dial properly so I don't have to mess with the shims ever again... I have a gen eta 2846 that I purchased, but I missed a 16014 midcase that was in great shape on the bay, I was waffling on pulling the trigger due to price. Oh well. The 2846 may yet go into a 7928 build. Big thanks to JMB for putting up with all my noobie questions, and of course LHOOQ, for all the 1016 threads, without which I couldn't have put this together. Also, to Kent at Everest Watchworks for the amazing lume work. Lastly to the rwg community, for a wealth of information to learn from. Now, pictures!

@QueTip Thanks for sharing that here, it's a fantastic post well worth adding to our information library.

Does somebody have the "Vintage Rolex Sport Models" book in pdf ? Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk

My 2 cents about DIALS ... It all depends on "how old" you want your 16800 to be : - 16800 production years are about 1979/1888. - "early" 16800s (1979/1984) came with a matte dial with paint/lume indexes (3 sorts of matte dials : MARK I / MARK II / MARK III) - "late" 16800s (1984/1988) came with a glossy dial with circled indexes (white gold circled). - glossy dials are supposed to be used only since 1985 but the "Comex" 16800s (1984) came with glossy dials. So, depending one the period you want your 16800 to be, and the money you want to put on your build you may have to : - modd your 16610 dial to a 16800 glossy dial (that's what I did) - modd your 16610 dial to a 16800 matte dial - swap for an aftermarket dial (only matte available I think) - swap for a gen dial (matte and/or glossy ... rare and $$$$$$) For my "year 1984" 16800 Comex 16800 I just kept the 16610 dial and modd it : - popped the indexes off - sanded the dial to get it completely blank - chamfered the date window - designed a 16800 dial with Illustrator (with "COMEX" branding and "SWISS-T<25" text) - printed the design on white decal paper - placed on the blank dial - sprayed 5 coats of glossy varnish - put the indexes back on I really think I could have done better but ... once again ... that was my very first complete build and a 150$ project altogether

I can post it on here too. Give me a few hours though. I'm out. I'll mention you once it's up.

When I wrote that the JF against the 16800 was remarkably good, I was referring to the JF as a base for a franken. The dial and hands would need to be completely changed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice watch !!! again Is it the same one or a twin sister [emoji16] Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk

36mm automatic vintage from 1984

The engraved rehault is not a real problem as it can be easily sanded. The dial of the JF16610LV is much more a problem because of : - big indexes (16800's white gold circled indexes are smaller) - "swiss made" instead of "swiss-T So I would wait for the JF16610LN that should come with small indexes. Then the main problems will be the "swiss made" and the non-drilled lugs ... but all that can be modded. Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk I wrote I would wait for the JF16610LN but ... I'll probably buy the LV too [emoji7] Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk

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If 1575 = rolex 1575 movement, there are four styles of case screws: 1...Regular flat head screw. Self explanatory. Use the size that is needed. 2...Screw with a thinner outside 'skirt'. The 'skirt' area is thinner than where the screwdriver slots is. This is probably the most common type. 'Skirt' screw: eBay item number 182288035756 3...'Knife edge' screw. Outer diameter is knife edged to fit where a regular screw will not go. 'Knife edge' screw: eBay item number 322379259479 4...'Notch head' screw: There is about one third of the screw head cut away. This is done so the movement can be inserted straight down into the case with the notches facing outward, then the screw is backed out (hopefully into the groove) to hold tension on the movement. This type of screw is sometimes a real pain because they will not turn into the notch because the screw head it too thick or has to be unscrewed too much to line the notch up to slip past the rail of the case groove when installing the movement/dial combo. This type of screw keeps from having to set the movement in the case where notches are cut in the case to allow for the case screw heads, then turning the movement to where it needs to be. 'Notch head' screw: eBay item number 152410745980 On a few projects, I used case screws and case clamps because the screws would not line up in the groove in the case. MBK Frankenstein '5512' for example. Knife edge screws may have worked but I went with screws and clamps because you do not have to turn the movement/dial combo in the case to put it in the correct position. Turning the movement/dial combo in the case can scuff paint off the outer edge of the dial. Tip: If the movement/dial combo gets stuck in the case when turning it to the correct position...use a pin wrench to turn the movement/dial combo one way or the other. There are two holes in the back side of the main plate where the tips of a pin wrench will fit...this should prevent damage or scratches to the movement when turning the movement/dial combo. I have had some movement/dial combos stuck tight in the case, not just on project watches but on genuine watches as well. Try the movement/dial combo in the case without case screws first to make sure there is no binding. Usually they hang up because the case screws get stuck in the groove in the case. Cheapo pin wrench: eBay item number 252149585873

Lots off aftermarket stuff also!

Nomos today

DO'NT BE NERVOUS FOR TRACKING!!

Nice handwind 34mm Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk

I'll be a 'sinn'-er today

In 2015 I was looking for a genuine 24-V50 1665 escape valve to compare with what came in Paul/Abay 1665/5514. A used one on Chronoshop was over $200USD. Plus shipping. Bought one new in the package for less than $50 on eBay. Btw...the Abay valve assembly is oem spec. I made a few but can not find them. They must have ran away with my 8115 balance stop springs. I put a BOLO out.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G928F met Tapatalk

Wow, really love this 1680! Specs?

I'll see your "real men" Sea Dweller and raise you.

I hope you didn't pay much for that, it looks nothing like a Submariner

This is a great project and the finish on the crown looks superb. That being said I have some additional observations: Oncyte's CG has a rather deep crown cutout so if the crown still rubs against the top of CG when in time setting position it may hinder time setting operation when a regular A-F rep CG or JF/Gen is used. I would like someone to comment on that. Also, as others have mentioned the sloping effect, sharp teeth and too much bevel on the right side. The price of crown appears to be very good and I will be buying them regardless but if the above mentioned issues can be addressed it would make for the best aftermarket crown of all time.