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Definitely stick around this time, the old timers that pop in are the heart and soul of "who" we are here. It's that culture of brotherhood and sharp elbows that keeps us honest.

Another review back from the dead. Pictures back up.

6239

I would say buy the watch and enjoy it. Continue to read here on the forum for another month or so. This will help you realize it is not easy to mod. You will screw things up as everyone has done. Then if you still want to change the dial , you can attempt yourself or have someone else do it for you. Don't be in a rush, enjoy the forum and the hobby and have fun. Welcome! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Not all rep accept Gen parts. Therefore, you need to research more in depth + you need a watch smith to work on this.

Amazing. All you old friends in the same thread. I'm planning to stay around this time. I just bought my first rep in years. I think I have owned this before. Haha.

Vintage tropical gilt happiness

Hello ol' pal!! Cheers! [emoji482][emoji482][emoji482] [emoji482] PS. I've got a few from back then that still run great! Most notably, my Eddie Lee 3717 [emoji41]

"I am wondering if I could fit a gen Datejust 1601 dial into a 36mm made for ETA 2836 case?" Anyone ever wonder why they made the 'pie pan' dials in the first place? Because in the 1960s 'thin was in' and they made the 'pie pan' dial so the movement could be mounted higher in the case in order for the watch case to be made thinner. Omega 'pie pan' Constellations of this era were made the same way for the same reason. That being said, when using a 'pie pan' dial with an aftmkt case made for an eta 2836, there should be plenty of room for it all to go together. Maybe someone on the forum has made up a watch with a genuine 'pan' dial and an eta 2824 or 2836 and will chime in with how it went. I have never put a watch like this together so I am no help. I have stuck a few later model sapphire DJ projects together and I always use an eta 2836 because there is more room for the DWO. Looks like the main question is: Does it need a 2824 or 2836? I do not know for sure but I do know this...a 1575 date movement with a 'flat top' dial will fit into a case made for a 3035 date movement and flat top dial. One example is a 1575 movement and 'flat top' dial from a reference 1500 will fit right into a 15000 case made for a 3035. So...(by deduction), if a 2836 with a 'flat top' dial will fit into a rolex case made for a 1575 (genuine spec 1680 for example), it means a 2836 should fit in your DJ project case made for a 2836 although the 'pie pan' dial might allow the movement to mount a fraction of a mm higher in the case. What this all boils down to is you might have to try to find details on a similar project on the forum or wait for a member to give an answer...StoneP comes to mind. https://rwg.cc/topic/182885-super-franken-rolex-datejust-1601/#comment-1458304 "It's likely the 2836 will need a movement ring." Yes, a spacer similar to what is needed for putting an eta in a 1680 because except for the dial size, 1600 and 1680 cases are are the same internally. Something else to consider is a date wheel overlay...you will need one and they come with their own set of obstacles, fully explained on the forums. I just now measured a genuine 1601 dial and it is 27.9mm in diameter.

By-Tor, I had to do a double-take when I saw your name as a thread poster. It's great to see you back amongst the dusty pages of the forum.

this is a great thread.

MKII Kingston Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because we don't do builds for other people, we do them for ourselves. As I stated in my earlier post, there is a limit (for me) of what I will spend on gen parts for a build. It's the whole cost/benefit ratio. I try to complete my builds for less than the going sales prices on the boards, so even though I am building for me and not to sell, if circumstances dictate that I need to, I won't get hurt too bad in the process (or at all). Case and point, my 16014 DateJust. It is 100% genuine parts aside from the ETA 2824 (granted the hands are gen Tudor, not Rolex). Took me awhile to gather all the parts, but that build cost me less than you can see others selling for here with not much more than a gen dial and crown/tube. It gives me great pleasure to see a build that does not have the same quality parts as one of mine sell for more than I have invested. On the other hand, I have seen people do builds with 100% gen parts and spend close to what it would cost to buy the gen. That I would never do, but to each their own. Omega Planet Ocean and modern Daytona builds can easily go down that rabbit hole. I choose not to play in that space, but respect anyone who wants to take that leap, and will applaud the quality when they show it off to us.

Such a walk down memory lane, I used to love the SMP Chrono. I left my reps at home in the UK when I relocated to Aus so sadly miss them! The WM9 Sub really changed my views on Rolex as a brand! I remember the Breitling SOSF (or SFSO!?) as being the watch that really made me realise how good the rep quality was getting, and it was Bytors review that instigated that purchase Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're so right imo. Had the same car as my first car ever, I've used and abused it over and over, even sank it but it never let me down and I've always been able to fix it... now my G63 has over 19 computers onboard and is in my mind a pos compared to my p60 built for the army as a tool. You can buy all gen and go to an AD for every little trouble or learn your way out and do it yourself. It's like building a new company, you don't do it for the money but for the journey (I've built 8 so far).

Depends on what you are building. For example, I have about $2,500 in my 6263 v72 build as she sits today (I'm not quite done yet). Buying that watch as 100% gen ($70k +) is just not ever going to be in the cards for me financially. I'll happily wear my "franken" when 99.5% of the people who see it won't even know what it is, much less if it's genuine. Paying $2,500 for a franken when the gen is less than $5k is a poor decision from my perspective, so it's really just about relative value. You might think spending that $2,500 on a gen is a better idea. To each his own. For me it's about more than just the money spent. It's one of my hobbies. I like the challenge of doing builds, and wearing the end result.

Where/which site did you order from? Looking to buy a V7 myself, but can't decide which site to order from, in fear of being ripped of/scammed. Nice pics, looks great

after 12 years? very very nice bro.

If any proof to how good a quality some of these "replica" pieces are, ii will leave the following images to be judged by the eye of the beholder. This is my first bue sunburst model I purchased in 2004 from Paul known at the time as aspire. All thanks to our fellow emeritus member AUTOMATICO. I Have worn this every day since I purchased it and serviced it only once in 2011 and I have gone swimming and diving with it without a problem. It has had the crown and tube changed to a generic one as I could not get the correct one with the rolex emblem from anywhere!! The next one is one I purchased for my father for his 75th birthday in 2004 from Silix (Jay and Angel) when Paul's website disappeared. My dad loved it so much and it never left his arm. Although he was retired, he was still servicing marine boat engines and this watch took a lot of punishment as you can see from all the scratches and the missing original bracelet. Knowing Dad he also used it under water. I took it for a service a couple of weeks before he died and was always asking me about it. Sadly, he never got to see it where ironically the watchmaker phoned me on the day of his funeral to pick it up. I have left it untouched as a relic since as it has traveled with him to London, Italy and Australia which makes it very priceless to me being more valuable than any genuine. If quality control is a issue here, then all products should come with eternal warranties

No reps that I know of. There was also an automatic version. I machined a case on a manual lathe and mill, just for grins, but it was pretty labor intensive. I grafted on an APRO bracelet made it into a fantasy Tudor...