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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/29/2018 in all areas

  1. First of all, i would like to say thank god i have found Legend. The guy lives up to his name! He was very courteous, good comms skills and knowledgable. attention to detail is amazing! Highly recommended as a modder and now a good friend after we had an experience w customs Took around 2-3 weeks to wait to mod (the wait is worth it!), but then unfortunately we shipped it via a good and reliable sing post but it was forwarded to dhl when it arrived to thailand. and it got stuck in customs for another week!!!! (Dont use dhl is asia!) but man, was legend super supportive and concerned and kept good communication all the way! Kudos to this kind and good man. Long story short, we sent a dummy rolex receipt to the customs (thanks google). And voila we fooled them!!! Haha. What an experience but it really proved that legend was a good guy! And customs can be solved I know there are a lot of hype on the noob4130 but to me im happy with my baby, arf 116520 on its own. Some specs: -gen dial black -shaved pushers patterned to legends gen -relumed green hands to match the gen dial -serviced 7750 -rotor silenced -waterproofed 5-6 atm Amazing!!!! To all- legend is a true artist and very happy to have worked w him!!!! On to some pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk @legend Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. Imho... The accepted rule is something is 'worth' what an informed buyer will pay. Maybe yes, maybe no. Take vintage rolex watches for example...25 years ago a 5513 or 1680 was 'worth' maybe $1500USD. Now the same watches are 'worth' $10,000 or more. They are the same watches (with 25 more years of wear and tear) for sale during a different time, that's all. Inflation would make today's prices around $3000 not $10,000 or more. Why are buyers willing to pay so much today? Maybe they just want to be trendy by wearing an old 'tool watch'. Most of today's vintage rlx buyers are too young to remember when the watches they are paying $10k+ for sold for $400 new. Every generation has its legions of buyers who will pay the price to go back in time. My generation buys 1960s/70s American musclecars for 10x to 50x what they sold for new. They remember when the cars were new in showrooms but they did not have the money to buy one. Why do they pay so much for an old car today? Probably because they are Nostalgic. I was a car freak in the 1960s and 1970s but I would not give $100 for an old car today if I had to drive it everyday and keep it up. Why? Because I remember the $400 '55, '56, '57 Chevrolets I had back then with maybe 80,000 actual miles on the clock. The door hinges sagged and you had to pick up on the door and stuff it in the door frame, the suspension was all worn out, the differential gears whined like a wild Panther in heat, the brakes would not stop the car in half a mile, they went around curves like a three legged dog, the window regulators were all shot so the windows were half way down in the winter, the vacuum windshield wipers stopped when you accelerated, the engines were on their second or third set of rings and bearings, the valves were loose in the guides and the floppy rocker arms mushroomed the valve spring tips, the cam lobes usually had flat spots, the ignition points always needed setting, and the cars rattled like a truck full of hub caps. I guess I am a little bit nostalgic...enough to have a 55xx Frankenstein. Are you nostalgic?
    1 point
  3. Nostalgic? Me?? Never.
    1 point
  4. Hey folks... I was fortunate in picking up the relatively untouched Abay 5514 in the raffle a few months back. Ive worn it occasionally round the office as the timekeeping has been spot on, and I hadn't really decided what to do with it. A few things niggled enough not to wear... 1. Spring bars looked buggered and even with the drilled lugs I couldn't seem to remove the bracelet without further tools. 2. The insert is looking so new and shiny... 3. When looking at the watch I could see that whatever cement had been used to fit the plexiglass you could see that around the edge - it just looked like too much cement used. 4. The bezel didn't turn... So today I had a few hours and decided to strip, clean case, refit plexiglass and fettle so that bezel was fitted and worked. The following pictures tell the story but I'll add a few words along the way. I hope you find it interesting / amusing to see this "carzy" 5514 stripped bare. "The Midcase" You know... it may not have correct crown tube height etc but it ain't a bad case... has some ok bevels on the lugs and the drilled holes are not badly positioned. I just softened edges and "dulled" it all over if that makes sense!? The engravings... I'm no expert so no idea if they are correct (ish) but at least no spelling errors... And the Escape Valve... Its one detail that sets this apart from the sub models of the day... "Plexiglass" I've never fitted one like this but I was right in thinking it had been shown a little too much cement when fitted (no offence to whoever did it... It wasn't falling out that's for sure!). Cleaned and refitted... with a little less cement. "Bezel Ring" with the plexiglass refitted I stripped the bezel ring, cleaned and adjusted wire before fitting... also dulled the shininess a little. "Movement / Dial" at this point I'm not in mind to spend too much on a new / better dial so just recased the Swiss ETA movement that is running strong and accurate without any adjustment. Now all that leaves is a few pictures of the 5514 Abay complete.with it's slightly bleached (dulled) insert, working bezel and better (I hope) plexiglass fitting. Not a bad couple of hours watch fettling... By the way I like the prototype clasp and bracelet on this... something a.little different. Would you do more to this? Or just enjoy it as a little fun oddity?? Cheers... "Woz"
    1 point
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