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Ah well that explains it. In my world, no real Rolex exists after 1974. [emoji12]

@Nanuq- the dial is ok- Rolex started with the white gold surrounds around 1984 until the end of the run- 1988 or so when the 14060 came in.

Pretty sure some late 5513 dials had white gold surround indexes

Jovi75, you attracted the interest of some of the strongest builders here, or anywhere. These guys have forgotten more than most guys will ever learn about vintage Rolex. So pay close attention to everything they tell you. You have some okay parts but you're going to hate your case before this is over. If it's not sized to accept gen parts, you're going to waste more on crap parts that don't fit, than you would spend to just get a good case. Then look at your dial. No 5513 dial has metal surrounds on the indexes. You want a good bezel and insert... that won't fit what you have now. Like the man said, stop spending money and READ. We have solved all these problems here and the information is at your fingers. When you have read everything and understand it, then we will take the next steps to help you complete a perfect project.

HAHA let's do it buddy! I got a gen dial, gen hand set, and gen bezel from years of hoarding.

(In my subjective opinion and in response to the TC as a watch of its own league) TC was a good watch for its time; but then again, it came at a different price point and it's not like the TC was the only super-rep of its time: there were other super-reps back then with a cheaper price tag (notably, those Panerai). Not to mention, the TC had its fair share of bad QC and/or uncorrectable fatal flaws (e.g. tall SEL mid hump, non gen-spec SEL and/or lug hole location -- at least for the V6 and V7 that i currently own. Also, some of the TCs have notoriously-bad SEL gaps as well). The SA4130 movement's chronograph functionality is not the only spotlight of the watch: 1. The SA4130 movement is compatible with genuine parts for franken builds / modding. Therefore, there is no need to cut off the genuine dial's feet or modify the wheels / cannon pinion (to make the movement accept genuine hands). 2. The SA4130 movement has the right thickness, unlike the following movements: Asian 7750 sec. @6 or the well-revered ARF 116520 (which has a slightly-more bulbous caseback to accommodate those decorative plates). 3. The SA4130 movement has the correct crown / stem / tube height like genuine, unlike the following movements: Asian 7750 sec. @6, the well-revered ARF 116520 (which has a higher crown height, ruining the crownguard shape when you look at it from the side), and JF 23j faux chrono movement (the crown height is too low and it affects the crownguard shape as well). 4. The SA4130 movement's pusher is made to gen-spec and this influences the aesthetics of the pusher location on the case, unlike the ARF 116520 V1 which originally had stubby pushers. 5. Modders, owners, and watchsmiths on RWI have praised the quality and reliability of the movement. As previously mentioned by Tickleshoes, he noted that even the quality of the reverse wheels is top-notch and manufactured like its genuine counterpart. In a nutshell, the development of the SA4130 movement to be a 1:1 clone (of the genuine equivalent) not only brings us chronography functionality (like gen), but it also influences the aesthetic and construction of the case shape, as well as the compatibility of genuine parts for modders and enthusiasts. Also, it doesn't hurt to own something different and unique from the current rep offering? I mean, NOOB CLONED A FREAKIN' COLUMN WHEEL CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT!!! If you look at the technical aspects and intricacies of the 4130 movement, then $658 is just a small price to pay for such a feat with the above-mentioned advantages.

Reading what alligoat, automatico and hologramet, all really seasoned members, have written here ... may I suggest you to stop buying so called gen parts (which are in fact aftermarket), put everything aside, read a lot, learn and then go back to the workbench ? It will help you saving money (at least not lise any) and get a nice and decent 5513 at the end of the watch. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

You need 4 parts for the bezel assembly crystal retaining ring flat tension spring bezel bezel insert Of course you'll also need a T-19 crystal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Rotating-Bezel-Retainer-Spring-Insert-For-Rolex-5513-1680/113303777563?hash=item1a616e711b:g:zH8AAOSwAata25R0 This is an aftermarket bezel assembly, but the bezel insert isn't very good. Also, your case may not work with the correct aftermarket parts- it appears to have a lip which means it had a non-standard bezel assembly (meaning a Chinese rep assembly). You need to find a better case- check out Yuki watch, Ruby's watch, or Phong (Jewelryandwatch.com). And remember, you are undertaking an expensive project! Good luck!

@By-Tor...good to see you're back m8, I loved those legendary reviews from the old days...

904 steel is just a gimmick. When I put my gen 16610 and WM9 side by side I can't see or feel any difference at all. The difference comes from the smoothness / roundness of the bracelet links. And those you can modify on a rep. Just put the bracelet into a motor oil can for 12 hours, wash and use a nail file to make the bracelet edges rounder. Voila... after that it's 90% like the gen.