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"...I have two Adrian’s brevet crowns and even the correct tap but i am not good enough with metal works (yet) to redrill and re-tap the tube hole in the case. And where I live I cannot find anyone to do the job for me." Having the correct tap is one third of the battle. My last case tube drill/tap job was drilling and tapping a JMB '1016' case from 5.3mm case tube size threads to standard 6.0mm size threads. Standard 6.0mm and 7.0mm (twin/triplock) case tube threads are 3.0mm diameter by .35mm pitch and take a 2.5mm drill bit. I do not have specs on 8mm case tubes. The next third is drilling the hole in the case to the right size before tapping it. Look up the metric or number size drill bit to use for the tap size you have and buy a few bits. Carbide is best but high speed steel (aka HSS) bits will work if you keep them lubed while drilling. Since the case tube hole is already drilled in the case before you re-drill the hole, the new hole will almost always be straight. I underlined almost because things can go wrong. I use a small milling machine with a homemade bracket to hold the case while drilling spring bar and case tube holes to size but a small low cost table mount type drill press will work just fine. My small drill press was $49USD on sale and I use it for all kinds of small jobs. The small milling machine is not necessary but since I have it, I use it and besides, it is inside where it is warm in the winter and the drill press is out in the garage. The last third is very critical because the tap has to be started straight in the hole or it can get in a bind and break or not cut good threads...this is usually the hardest part of the whole operation. So...what to do? After you locate the proper drill bits, practice drill a few holes in a spare steel watch case, piece of steel strap metal etc about 3mm or 4mm thick and tap the threads to get a feel for it. This will demonstrate how easy it is to start a tap out of true and how to keep it straight. I will admit it is not easy but after a few practice runs you will be able to tell if the tap is starting straight or not by the force needed to turn it to cut the threads. Keep the tap lubricated and blow or flush the metal chips out every half turn or so. I flush the chips out with WD 40 etc in a spray can. After the hole is most of the way tapped you can remove the tap and clean the threads and tap before finishing it up but if you remove the tap before it cuts a few good threads, it will be hard to get it started. Very hard sometimes. Tips: I use a pin vise to start the tap because it is easier to 'eyeball' the trueness of a pin vice than a T handle tap wrench. Once the threads are started you can change over to a T handle if you want to. After you drill the case tube hole you can 'cheat' when starting the tap if you mount the tap in the drill chuck and lower it very lightly into the case and turn it by hand (power off) to get it started straight. This only works if you have a precision case mounting set-up and a good drill press with no slop in the drill's spindle bearings etc. Do not try this at first on a case, try it on scrap metal etc. Practice, practice, practice with a little patience added is the key. Good luck!

Some additional advice from an old timer. I’ve done a dozen or so deals with Andrew/Trusty. I’ve always gotten the product. However, as it is with this hobby, do not expect the actual watch to be a mechanical marvel. Nearly everything I have purchased in the last two years has had some major mechanical flaw. This is not unique to any one dealer. QC is a joke. I would say one in five reps will arrive at your door, need nothing, and operate trouble free for more than a year. You basically need to be an amateur watch maker/repairer, or know someone who can service or fix the gremlins in these replicas. NOOB, ARF, an BP have terrible insides. Do not expect much added inspection, in regards to something QC related. Asking Trusty to double check bezel alignment will usually be met with “it’s the angle of the photo”. I discovered a majority of QC photos are taken at the factory and not by Trusty so he / his staff is not even in a position to “put hands on” your QC item. That’s the other thing, I am sure he has staff, and based on a couple of exchanges you might be dealing with an underlying at times. Barring any major issues, you pretty much have to accept what arrives at your doorstep. Fix the issues locally. Just the nature of the beast. Low expectations are your friend. 🙂

I’m actually not a customer or even supporter of trustytime but he does have a good reputation. You seem to have a problem with this objective fact. I think that until you learn to show some respect, you and your rudeness isn’t welcome here. What I said stands: That if you have a problem with a trusted dealer, learn to first sort it out with him via PM. If that does not work, approach a staff for help. I didn’t say me specifically but I guess you’re too dumb to understand that. Long time member or not, take a breather. Till next time.

"If you’re on a budget I’d use campfuel / (Coleman’s), I’d never use acetone it’s a bad idea." Yep, good advice imho. Coleman camp fuel, Zippo/Ronsonol lighter fluid etc is all the same basic stuff (naptha), you can also buy naptha in gallon cans at Home Depot, hardware stores etc. Most brand name watch rinses are naptha solutions except it might be filtered a bit more. Most commercial watch cleaning solutions are made out of finely filtered 'Stoddard Solvent' aka mineral spirits/paint thinner with a few additives...very few probably. Some brake cleaners will work too, especially the older types with tetrachloroethylene. It is very noxious stuff though and goes by the common name 'dry cleaning fluid'. Watch mechanics call it 'One Dip' or hairspring cleaner. Acetone is not too hot for watch parts...or your bright red fingernails. What Is Stoddard Solvent (questionfun.com) Zippo fluid is better !!! Zippo vs Ronsonal - YouTube

Is this what you guys are looking for? yep. gilted sub dial with resinous tritium suspension. Lume was done and applied in 10 mins so please be kind in your judgements. and how beautiful they are

Wearing the Sub this weekendd -

I've been buying from Andrew for about 15 years (last purchase maybe 6 months ago), and it's mostly been good experiences, and if they weren't good, he fixed it up very quickly.

So you’ve had a bad experience with TT and he apparently refuses to work it out. Firstly you need to understand TT will never be removed as a trusted dealer based on this incident. He has been established long enough in this circle to be a trusted name. I’m not saying that what you wrote is untrue or made up. But I’ll like to hear from Andrew to hear his side before anything else. If it’s a mistake, and over a relatively small sum like $200, then send it back for a refund. Shipping fee can’t be reimbursed in this hobby I’m most cases. And lots of patience is needed. Posting this here won’t solve the issue. Communicate properly with Andrew and get this worked out. If one round of email does not work, then do it again. And again. Andrew is not an unreasonable fella, and this fact has been established many times with many different members. I don’t see why he would treat you any different. There is no point trying to put a blight on his name. Every dealer here has his fair share of good and bad reviews. If you need real help then send me and Trusty a PM. We will get it resolved the proper way. Ranting won’t help and serves nothing.