highoeyazmuhudee

last night i rinsed my sub off under warm water for about 25 seconds, nothing abnormal. When i put it down on the dresser i noticed it started to fog up under the crystal at the very top and went on to produce a droplet of water (due to temperature change). I uncased the movement all is well with the dial and movement not being moist, but as a precaution i put it in a ziploc bag with silica gel. The Caseback gasket is greased and tight, as is the case tube. With my now gutted case i put the back on and screwed down the crown and performed a dunk test to spot the leak. NOTHING in 1L of water. So i dunked it with very warm water and then cool water. FOG around the very top of the crystal. Condensation has never been an issue before with normal wear except the first time i decided to rinse off the watch last night. as Euromariner owners know, in order to get the insert to snap in you must shanve down 1mm from the top of the retaining ring due to the bezel ring being too short. My question: Did modding (shaving 1mm down)the retaining ring on the euromariner so the bezel insert snaps in cause this problem? Since after doing so I could see the top of the white crystal gasket sticking out 1mm above the retaining ring and may provide a way for moisture in since it's exposed. Could this be why? OR should I spend money and replace the retaining ring gasket and crystal gasket since the noobmariner/and vintage model subs only have a crystal gasket which is exposed under the bezel as well? I tested my noobmariner to 40M and even a condensation torture test with a solid pass. SO anyone with MBK subs and Euromariners experience anything like this? I dont want to have to accept this as an inherent design flaw in order to have had that insert snap in. Or should I replace the gaskets on the Clarks and retaining ring? thanks

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does anyone know the part number for the retaining ring case gasket (not the case back unless theyre the same) for a modern 16610 sub? and the part number for a replacement crystal(295c2) gasket (the white palstic one) and a good source for these? thanks

had you gotten the automatic dial an ETA would be your easiest solution

sorry I dont recall, I bought this watch many months ago but am only now writing about it. But it was within the norm as it didnt seem unusual at all, which is why i dont remember. To ball park perhaps 2-3 weeks since I requested photos and review them it took an extra few days. I was overall satisfied with the delivery time.

sorry bout the pic sizes should of reduced the res. As for the lume it's stock but: the Clarks does make it brighter cause some how the glass seems clearer. I should also mention it was shot at 1.8-2.8 so a wider aperture combined with iso1250 and a 1-2sec exposure will produce this. Also charged it with my 500watt studio light for 10 seconds right up until the shutter released. : )

I consider this watch a quasi fantasy watch because it's a very inaccurate rep of a genuine speedmaster moon. Knowing this I still bought it because it's one hell of a sexy looking watch regardless of its flaws (and useful as a stop watch). It's also a pretty accurate timekeeper out of the box great size and heft on this one, display back adds a dimension of merriment to this classic looking watch. It draws attention from all who spy it. I have another seagull handwound chrono movement and this one seems to wind a little rougher. In terms of QC it came perfectly clean, flawless, and all aligned. the bracelet I find more comfortable than my noob sub bracelet and it's a bigger watch in both weight and size. Push button chrono works very nicely and isn't any less smooth than the genuine speedys i've played with IMO. what I dont like. well the sub dial spacing is inaccurate, but if you didnt know that it wouldnt look any worse. so accuracy that should be fixed, but not as big a deal to me as: screw down crown versus pull out for this daily handwinder raised domed glass is sexy and this one is more flat than domed, detracts from the overall watch the 24hour sub dial is useless on this piece since the dial only goes up to 12 (like gen but NOT functional), why not freeze it like on the vintage daytonas that ship with this movement? Yeah there are tutorials to fix this BUT everything is so perfect from the factory on this watch I rather not risk the uncasing if I dont have to. dealings with Eurotimez was smooth and cost a bit more, in turn I gained pre shipping photos to do my own QC from my home. If this is important to you check out his site. would I recommend buying this watch? take one look at it, and IF you love it at first sight, ignore the obvious flaws and get it... It's unclear WHEN, IF this will be re-repped or have the speedmaster date with proper sub dial spacing repped in its place, having this one forgotten. also gens of this watch can be had for about $1,600US more in used condition, so that's also an option. pics: enjoy!

MBK M engraved Sub case (which i've grown to like, and canal street reps lack) stock MBK crown & tube CGs shaved Clarks Crystal JO insert (recessed) WM pearl Noob dial MBK hands Noob date overlay GENUINE swiss ETA 2836-2 with incabloc noob bracelet with sanded edges FULLY polished (like gen) price to complete this project $400 USD glows like Chernobyl for about 2minutes after a 10 second charge, then almost uselessly dim for about 20mins. my ONLY grievances: crystal height appearance is too high due to the bezel ring profile being too low. OVERALL im very satsified with it and have retired my noobmariner to all but very abusive situations. now just gotta fix that bezel/crystal height issue and im 100% satisfied

looks like the glass got shocked from the side. did you bang the bezel against something? maybe even lightly... perhaps the crystal was under too much pressure

i bought a third party one off ebay(bergeon knock-off) for $30, think it was "headpai" or something like that. works perfect, fits perfect, tightens perfect. the milling isnt as sharp as probably the bergeon tho, and it can occasionally slip when retightening casebacks if you push it. If i had to buy it again i'd probably buy the LG OPENALL instead http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/LG-Openall...ase-Wrench.html

i'd say an ETA is worth $100, it's a very robust and refined movement.

I have mostly Asian movements, and out of the box are my worst time keepers. Anything more than 13 seconds a day off I have to tinker with. My asian sub is about 5 secs a day now, and my gen Swiss ETA out the box was 3-5 secs a day, depending on crown posistion. It seems to gain time on my wrist, and lose it over night in the watch box, so when I put it on the next day it's within 3 secs of accuracy in either direction. Asians can be tuned within acceptable range but ETAs out of the box in new condition are a dream, albeit 4-5 times more expensive.

looks like its forged out of aluminum foil at a chinese takeaway

when I was applying my overlay I noticed I had to slightly misalign the dates in the 20s for it to fit perfectly centered in the date window on the dial, otherwise it was too left aligned

I used double sided 3M scrapbooking tape successfully multiple times

try josh or andrew, takes about 7 days on average. but once you get your wm9 i doubt you'll be touching your noobmariner much. mbk is expensive to justify it as a time filler, noobmariner is about $110

I currently own this model i got from Eurotimez, I WOULDNT swim with it or even wash my hands with it on. IMO it's also NOT worth the $100 for the genuine bracelet from cousins, as the rep is severly flawed anyways. I knew this and still bought the rep because I love the style of this watch and the movement is excellent.

that got it! thanks so much for ALL your help guys, I think it might be time to upgrade my account

i love it! the maxi dial is why i like the 1680 so much

after comparing the pic to my movement it appears you are correct what's the correct way to set this spring in its place? I could just pull it over(?) I currently have the crown stem in the wind posistion and all of the keyless works assembled on the movement

hey, Did you ever resolve this problem cause the EXACT SAME thing just happened to me (minus the hacking problem).

OK i managed to get the stem to click and lock in place, date change posistion works, time setting posistion works, MANUAL wind posistion just spins freely without winding the movement. any thoughts? thanks

well it's gone now anyways

yeah I figured I'd have to tear it apart was wondering if any one else has had a similar issue so I could learn from their experience with it. Thanks for the info The Zigmeister about the winding posistion. I'll disassemble the keyless works and hopefully not ruin this ETA movement. I'll include pics for reference. Krustybrand I'm pretty sure the problem is internal as the stem goes in fully but doesn't engage, thanks for the input tho perhaps in another situation that would have saved me from tearing it apart.

I FINALLY finished building this sub after several delays and grueling tasks involved with everything on this convoluted project and when I went to fit the hands for midnight finding the date click over the damn crown fell of the stem. It had had come unscrerwed, SO i removed the caseback, it was already in the time set posistion, pushed the ETA button to release the stem and pulled it out with tweezers, refitted the crown and now it wont stay in the movement after putting the stem in as far as it should go. It goes all the way into its winding posistion put simply does nothing when wound and pulls out without even pressing the stem release button! any ideas guys? it's like a slap in the face after all I went through to complete this project.