automatico

Who sells the most swiss watches in $$ value? Top Dogs... Rolex and Omega. Mutts... Everything else. State of the Industry – Swiss Watchmaking in 2020 | SJX Watches (watchesbysjx.com) Top 50 Swiss Watch Brands of 2020 Market Share - Editorial (monochrome-watches.com)

"I would not bother looking for a spare as you would pay almost one fifth of the value of the movement! Better to replace the complete movement with a new one without tags if you cannot live without a 28xx series or it is the only movement that fits your project!" Good point. Then maybe put a clone escape wheel in the original movement just to see how it runs. "...parts prices are absolutely ridiculous which is why I am slowly getting out of this hobby!" Me too. My rlx Divorce... First...stopped buying or trading for later model rolex watches after their 'NPFY' ruling in the mid 1990s...got rid of all cal 3035 and 3135 date models. Second...stopped taking in any outside rolex work at all because of NPFY. Already had quite a few parts for cal 1530/70 so I went to vintage models with cal 15xx for my 'collection'. Also have three old models with cal 1065 that I would not wear on a bet because one might quit running...one from 1956 and two from around 1959 iirc. Have a few 'hand crankers' too. 'Collection' Ha! More like a buncha damm junk. Third...stopped wearing genuine rolex watches at all and started wearing replicas or F-steins when I wanted to wear a mechanical rolex type watch. A Personal Protest. Sold off almost all vintage omegas at the same time for the same reason but never cared much for them anyway. Might still buy one at a bargain price because they are good for 'boot' in trades. Now ETA is closing the door on parts but I have some news for 'em...I have enough 28xx ETA junk to last three lifetimes. I consider mech-auto watches to be a hobby. Wearing them to keep them running is NOT part of the hobby. I usually wear a SS Bulova A-tron II Moonview or 96B210.

As long as it is a genuine ETA part it will work Ok. Eta 2801, 2824, 2834, 2836 all use the same escape wheel -- P/N 00705.2801.112 Sometimes you see them listed as PN 705. eBay has a few...item number 173890516630 etc. It's crazy...not many new swiss ETA 28xx movements are listed on eBay for less than $200 now. There were dozens of them for $125 or so a few years ago. I can not remember for sure what the least I paid for a new swiss ETA 2836 was but I still have some marked $65 for one or $59 each for three. Bought some nos Jaques Prevard submariner style watches with swiss ETA 2846 for $75 about the same time along with some new JW Benson watches on leather straps with ETA 2892-A2 for $200 each. Now a new 2892 A2 is around $325 from ST and others. Forgot about another bargain in ETA 2824/2836...new Gruen 'swiss' steel automatics for around $75 (or less) from a Walmart blowout 8 or 10 years ago. They went to wholesalers and I snagged a few. It turned out Walmart shoppers were mostly quartz watch buyers so they unloaded them. Back when 'ABAY Paul' was selling replicas with swiss ETAs for $99 during a Crazy Sale! I bought a few and all except one had a new swiss ETA 2836 in them...one '1655' had a used swiss ETA in it. This was 2003 or so and I wonder how much new ETA 2836 were going for in quantity back then. I heard $35 or less but do not know if it was true or not. I am reading that interest in mechanical watches is dropping off and it may be true but parts prices are flying over the moon.

March 1, 2021 I finally got the '1655' project together and running. It turned out Ok but was a real hassle, not worth the time and trouble. I really just wanted to see if the shortcut modification would work with a bushing inside the 24 hour wheel to hold it in mesh along with the proper GMT CP, hour wheel etc to properly space the hands apart. Many of the quickie GMT kits did not have a 24H wheel bushing or correct H wheel, CP etc so they were a flop out of the box. So...what's next? I may remove the 'shortcut' GMT movement and put it in a 1603 case. I will have to remove the GMT canon pinion, hour wheel etc along with the modified minute wheel and put a new minute wheel post in the main plate...probably have to make one. I have a good 1603 case but the white dial with gold markers is faded and spotted...a 'tropic dial'. Ha! Have a blue dial with gold markers but it is worse, looks like someone laid it down by a blowtorch. Also have a 14k 16xx DJ bezel and gold crown plus a 14k signed buckle on a croc strap so it will make a nice knock around watch. Why go to all the trouble to begin with? The 1570/75 was a 'ruffy' (stem rusted in the main plate, rusty screws etc) and it needed a LOT of work anyway (c/o, rotor axle mainspring etc) so I decided to try the shortcut GMT conversion on it. I may put a swiss ETA 2846 with china GMT conversion in the '1655' case. Maybe not. Update March 4, 2021 "put a new minute wheel post in the main plate...probably have to make one" Could not find an 'affordable' minute wheel post (aka minute wheel stud) p/n 7888-1* so I planned to use a .5mm steel rod of some sort to make a minute wheel post. Could not find a suitable .5mm rod either so I bought a miniature drill bit set with a .5mm HSS drill bit in it. It has to be the type of bit made to insert into a pin vise so there will be some unfluted rod to make the post out of. Many mini-drill bit sets have the bit welded to an adapter leaving no length without flutes. *Found a 7888-1 but it was $20 (!!) plus shipping/handling making it over $30USD. Not for me. Followup 4-28-21 I posted this to show what an expen$ive, screwed up mess this can turn into today. A 1016, 5512, 5513, 1680 etc would be a LOT easier and cheaper if you want to use a genuine rlx 15xx movement. Saw these today on eBay... GMT parts needed for the 'shortcut' GMT modification not counting the non original modified minute wheel and non original 24 hour wheel... New Rolex 1565/1575 GMT 8030 Center Wheel with Cannon Pinion $215 133195881822 Used Rolex1575 GMT 8039 Double Tooth Hour Wheel (2.44mm) $485 284225493914 10-7-21 The USED hour wheel on eBay sold for $485! Someone really needed it. "Rolex 1575 GMT 8039 Hour Wheel With Double Toothing (2.44mm) Genuine Excellent." So... a 'shortcut' GMT movement would probably cost over $3000 today allowing $1000+ for genuine parts from eBay plus the non original 24H wheel and center wheel. Probably close to $1100 or $1200 for 'shortcut' parts...plus a complete rolex 1570/75 date movement plus c/o labor cost etc, plus a case, dial, hands, bracelet etc. IF the non original 'shortcut' parts worked first time around and mine did not without making a bushing for the 24H wheel. Not needed for the 'shortcut' modification but needed for a full conversion: new Rolex 1565/1575 GMT 8040 24 Hour Wheel $285 284225466968 From: Cal. 1570 GMT- tell me if I m wrong ? - The Rolex Area - RWG Here is most of what is needed to convert a 1565/75 to a 1565/75 GMT: #8038 - center second pinion 5.70mm #8037 - Cannon Pinion 3.39mm #8039 - double tooth hour wheel 2.44mm #8040 - 24hr wheel 1.41mm #8035 - Calendar Wheel nut #8036 - Date Jumper #8006 - Yoke for cam #8008 - spring for cam yoke #8011 - stud for cam #8030 - Center wheel with Cannon Pinion #8034 - Calendar Wheel #8011 - Stud for Cam #8037 - calendar spacer NOTE: I see the #7965 calendar spacer listed on eBay etc. for 1565/1575 GMT movements with high prices. #7965 calendar spacer shows to be made for Rolex 1565/75 date movements #8037 calendar spacer shows to be for 1565/1575 GMT movements Example: 1575 | 7956 | Date Indicator Calendar Seating Ring | eBay What is hard to find? All of it. What is hardest to find? #8037 calendar spacer #8034 - Calendar Wheel #8039 - double tooth hour wheel 2.44mm 8037 usually goes from $200 to $500 8034 usually $200 to $400 8039 used to be $200 or so...now close to $500 8034 calendar wheel aka 'date flipper' on eBay a few months back for $965 (!!) They must be getting hard to find. 8036 date jumper currently on eBay (7-27-21 item 184060183308) for $389 + $20 shipping This is the part that centers the date wheel in the window and keeps it in place, last one I bought new was $38 iirc. Updates: 10-7-21...the 'shortcut 1655' is still running fine with no problems. 10-19-22...I made a note above on #8037 GMT calendar spacer rings. The 'SC 1655' still runs fine but has been parked for a couple months. I'll leave it together if I can find a reasonably priced set of atfmkt hands for my other GMT project mentioned below. If not, I'll take the movement out, remove the 'shortcut' GMT parts, and put the movement back in the DJ it came out of. Then use the hands from it in the Phong project. As of August 2022, MQ '1655' hands are $380US delivered. I would not pay that much for hands for a relatively low $$ project like the shortcut watch but I also have a complete 1575 GMT movement and Phong case/dial, so maybe the MQ hands would be OK for it and leave the shortcut watch alone. Been mulling it over. I tried a set of '1655' hands made for an ETA 2836 on a rolex 1575 and there is too much difference in them to work. The GMT hand is not much of a problem because WSO has a pretty good '1655' 24 hour hand in their '1655' hand sets for genuine movements, but the H and M hands are not too hot...the lume slot is too long. For a 'no dot' sweep sec hand...they are available from many aftmkt suppliers. Example: Watch Hand Refills Regular, Medium and Long Post Style Sweep Second Hand (esslinger.com) Btw...it looks like I need to change my motto to: "No parts for you...never ever!"

"I have a Yuki 3135 movement in good shape and I'm entertaining the idea of building a watch around it." "In particular I keep seeing that a 3135-style movement will not fit into a case intended for a 2824 or similar ETA movement, which is what most of the stock out there apparently is geared towards." There are basically two variations of 36mm DJ type cases floating around: 1...Common cases made for swiss ETA 2836 and 2836 etaclones and/or various china DG/NN etc '21 jewel' movements. Because these movements started out as day/date movements, they are a little bit thicker than a 2824 date movement and the stem will be closer to the back of the case because of the thickness of the extra day of the week parts. 2...Cases made for swiss ETA 2824 and 2824 etaclones. They may be a little bit thinner overall than a 2836 case or they may be the same thickness as a 2836 case with the difference in movement thickness allowed for in the way they are machined inside the case. The newer 36mm DJ and DJ 41 cases may be made differently depending on the movement or they all might be the same. This goes for submariner type cases too except many DJ and submariners now come with 3135 clones so the Yuki 3135 may fit. I never had a watch with a 3135 clone, most of my projects used swiss ETAs. Successful projects that is. The problem is these cases are not always made to oem spec (or any spec) and there will be variations in cases made for the same movement...shallow reflector (aka 'rehaut') vs taller reflector, movement not centered in the case same as oem etc. For this reason there is really no set rule on what case will accept the Yuki 3135 clone. It is discouraging but that's the way it is...the replica world is basically 'Out Of Spec'. Ha! About all I have done is tell you what the pitfalls are so now maybe a member who has put a watch together using the Yuki 3135 will chime in with a few tips. Welcome to the forum and Good Luck!

Update later in November 2020: I have a good cartel '1655' case but the rlx 15xx GMT movement will not fit in it because the OD of the movement is 28.5mm and the ID of the case is 28.3mm. I am going to machine the ID of the case and see if the rlx movement will fit to keep from using the J$Wcom case. I'll report on it later. Later... Turns out the 1570 will fit into the cartel case (it was not going in level) so the dial is the next challenge. I first tried to use a 'white lume' cartel dial but the dial feet would not stick to the dial so I used a 'yellow lume' cartel dial without dial feet. (This turned out to be another fiasco but I'll skip it because it ended up with dial strips.) It seems to be Ok now and the dial strips between the calendar spacer and dial give enough room for all the date works to clear. This dial was made for this type of case and it fits. The date window is a hair to the left but the dial is centered on the mvt and the movement is centered on the dial so that's as close as it gets. February 20, 2021 The '1655' project with the 'shortcut' 1570 GMT movement is getting close to being finished. I had to install four new reverser pivot jewels in place of the brass bushings in the autowind assembly (a 17 jewel model a/w unit from an old 1520). This movement is made up of bits and pieces left over from projects and repairs. Swapping out bushings for jewels is usually not much trouble except the OD of the reverser bushing is a hair over 1.10mm, the size used in 25/26 jewel movements. So...each hole in the a/w assembly has to be broached out to a hair less than 1.20mm and the next size jewel installed (light press fit). I had only four jewels for four holes so naturally the last one shattered. Why? Because I was using a broach from a Seitz jeweling tool and should have used a standard broach. The Seitz broach cutter blade is about 8mm long and steeply tapered like a tree leaf and a standard broach has about 75mm of cutting area with a slow tapered cutting edge making it easier to cut gradually. You have to go slow because the 'Seitz takes bigger bites'. Ha! I ordered three new jewels and they should be here next week...three jewels = $30 + tax and shp!! Three jewels down and one to go. I already changed the top intermediate wheel (aka transmission wheel) bushing to a jewel and the jewel was the same size as the bushing. What is strange is they used a jewel on the lower transmission pivot where it does not show but from the top side all you see are bushings. They called the 17 jewel 1520 movements in 5500/5513 etc 'tariff beaters' because there was a tariff on watches over 17 jewels back then. The tariff was probably only a few dollars because the watches probably sold for $150 to $250 or so. Something funny about the 17 jewel movements is the steel reverser pivots sometimes wear out while the brass bushings still look new. Two pivots out of four on the 1520 were worn out, one almost gone, it looked like a needle. I forgot... Before the jewel fiasco I had the 'pleasure' of installing a new rotor axle in the auto weight. The flimsy center of the weight was bent (of course) so it had to be straightened first, then you have to peen the rivet with a 'special' staking punch made for this particular job. 'Special' in this case really means not all aftmkt punches for this chore are equal. I have ended up with four over the years...two no fitters and two that work. The two that work are from J Borel and ST. The other two shall remain anonymous. Note: The dates are pretty close but I may have missed a few. It does not matter anyway but as of 2-20-2021 all that is left is installing the one reverser jewel, cleaning and oiling the a/w assembly along with fitting the second hand bit and installing the a/w assembly...and crystal. Ah yes, the crystal... A 116 for 1655/1675 will not work because the case neck OD/bez ID is a little bit bigger than OEM. Maybe a 118 (16xx DJ) will. I'll post the results later. If I do not go Stark Raving MAD. (MADDER?)

What goes around... TimeZone : Public Forum » Federal racketeering case exposes underbelly of Rolex Grey Market

"I am looking for a set of straight end links in 19mm like yours.." These might be made to work but you would have to spread the last link apart. It would be easy to shorten the ends to 19mm. This one is 19mm but no way to know how wide the center links are. If they are too wide they can be trimmed but if too narrow...not gonna work. eBay item number: 172019171077 From guess who? WSO 990! More... 20mm oyster bracelet (tools852.com) CARLYWET 17 18 19 20mm 316L Stainless Steel Silver Brushed Watch Band Strap Old Style Oyster Bracelet Straight End Screw Links|Watchbands| - AliExpress Two things to watch out for: SEL type end links, there are a lot of them out there. Sheet metal end links that just fit over the last bracelet link and not in between them, Speidel 14/1500 for example. I used to have a few (iirc) but can not find them. As usual.

"So I want to build a Air-king newer model, my budget is under 1k, but I want to use some gen parts." Three main parts make a watch look genuine: Case. Dial/hands. Bracelet. All three (if genuine) cost a lot of $$ now. "With patience one can pick up Airking cases and dials on eBay, then use an ETA movement." True. Some 5500 AK cases are still affordable but many are badly corroded and from what I have seen, later 14000/14000M cases are expensive and one of the latest 40mm genuine cases could bust a $1000 budget just for a case. For this reason you could save a lot of $$ going with a replica case. That leaves quite a bit of $$ for the dial, movement, bracelet etc. For 40mm models...maybe go with a new replica AK. Get one with a China etaclone and be on the lookout for a genuine swiss ETA movement at a reasonable price if you plan to keep the watch because etaclones usually quit running sooner or later. One example: About 15 years ago there were 36mm Air Kings being sold with new genuine ETA 2836 in them with sapphire crystals and good bracelets/dials. They should have been 34mm but they used DJ/Exp 1 cases and very few noticed the difference in size. The lugs were 20mm apart and that did not attract much attention either. Problem is most of them are gone now and if you did find one in good condition it would probably be around $300 or so. A nos example would probably be $500 or more but it would have all the better components. You can also convert a 36mm AK to a sapphire 114270 Exp 1 by changing the dial and hands. Most of the 36mm AK replicas had blind lug holes and non flip lock bracelets so they would match the second batch of sapphire Exp 1...first batch had pierced lugs. Another example: I bought a like new 39mm Exp 1 with a non running etaclone, junked the movement and put a nos swiss ETA in in after cleaning/oiling the mvt. It turned out fine and runs like a champ. If you count the cost of the Exp 1 and new movement plus the c/o cost, it comes out to around $500, half of your budget. The same could be done with an AK. Imho they make China etaclones to use while you search for a swiss ETA.

I screwed up... It was a typo where I said "I have used a few GS PA 459-47 with good luck" it should have said: "I have used a few GS PA 459-37 with good luck..." The PA 459-37 has rounded top edges like you are looking for. My mistake. I will correct it in my original post. The PA 459-47C has the sharp top edge, I looked at one just now. . Do not have a PA 459-47 to compare to a PA 459-47C.

"There are also some other Tropic 12's available on Ebay, but they seem to be a hit and miss when it comes to shape and size." True. GS and Sternkreuz brands are usually Ok. From USA supply houses...Star Time generics always fit and Clark's have been good too. I have used a few GS PA 459-47 with good luck, do not know what the difference is between PA 459-47 and PA 459-57A. Correction: I should have said: "I have used a few GS PA 459-37 with good luck..." Have also sanded the sharp edge down a little bit on later style number 22 types but this only smoothes the top edge down, the flat sidewall remains. It looked a little better (to me) though. I mounted the case in a lathe with the crystal on it (no bezel), spun the case and sanded the edge, then polished it smooth like original. Sanding by hand may not give good results. If the crystal is not tight enough to stay on the case you have to use a bezel to hold it on and I have an old ratty bezel for that. I looked at a new Sternkreuz tropic 11 and it has a beveled top edge, part number XS 292.470 on the package. A Sternkreuz tropic 12 has a similar top edge and the p/n is XS 293.156 with 11 printed on the same line as the p/n but off at the edge of the envelope. Maybe it means it will work for 12 and 11?? Anyway, the beveled edge is not as sharply pronounced as genuine. Checked one from ST and it has the sharp top edge, p/n RCC 12...it looks like the later genuine models. Looked at one in a white envelope with a blue frame labled 'watch parts' across the top and do not know where it came from but it has a rounded top edge and it has p/n 5500 on it. You might spot one on eBay but I would not pay more than $6 or $8 for it with free shp. Looked at a new genuine rlx 25-22 and it looks exactly like the ST RCC 12...hard to tell for sure because it is sealed in a plastic envelope. My advice is not to waste $$ on a genuine crystal on watch projects. Why not? Because a cracked $100 crystal is worth exactly the same as a cracked $12 crystal. Ha!

"... the seconds wheel being the issue as I needed to replace it some months ago and could only get a clone generic." "Probably the reason why most clone mvts are a dud!" In my humble opinion (and experience) Asian etaclones are junk. The only Asian etaclone parts I have successfully used is a couple complete 28xx autowind assemblies and the IHS non adjustable 24 hour GMT mod for ETA 2836. Mixing internal A-clone movement parts with OEM often results in more problems because a lot of the A-clone parts are made to a low standard. Mini rant... Otoh, I am not a fan of the current swatch, rlx, omega (swiss in general) 'No Parts For You' policy but their movements are much better than any A-clones I have owned. Most of the swiss watch companies used to be more or less 'friendly' but now it seems they have declared war on their customers and parts supply houses. Imho they hate our guts but they love our $$. That's really Ok with me because they are rapidly becoming Dinosaurs again and this time nostalgia will not bring them back from the abyss like it did with the 'quartz crisis'. With the current generation opting for electronic time keepers over mechanical gadgets, I believe the swiss watch industry is on the way OUT for good. Apple type watches are out selling most of the swiss brands and that has to make them worry. I say AMF.

Here is a good article on the Powermatic: Swatch Group’s Powermatic Movement, a Powerful Entry-Level Engine - Monochrome Watches (monochrome-watches.com)

"the escape wheel just rocks backwards and forwards without moving in it's circular orbit..." Sounds like power is lost between the MS barrel and escape wheel somewhere. With no power on the escape wheel the pallet fork will not 'kick'. See if it has any kick at all when moved with a toothpick etc. A quickie power check is to release all the main spring power, remove the balance complete and pallet fork, then just barely wind the movement a quarter turn of the crown turn or so and see if the escape wheel spins. Do not allow it to spin very fast. If it does not spin...check to see if there is any power on the escape wheel, if it has power on it there should be no rocking back and forth and it should be trying to turn. Look for a speck stuck in the train wheel teeth and make sure there are no train wheel pivots out of their jewels or with a broken tip.

"...the extract lug hole diameter for the 1601?" The spring bar tips are .9mm so the holes need to be a hair bigger...1.0mm maybe.

"I can't even afford the fakes." Everyone knows many things are overpriced in life. Imho one is 'fine whiskey' and another is Patek Philippe watches. Proof? Not 100% proof, but after a few drinks of 86 proof 'fine whiskey' a bartender could mix 40% mulepizz with the whiskey and the person partaking of the spirit would probably not know the difference. So...maybe going from 86 proof to about 50 proof is proof enough. Patek Philippe watches are known for two things in modern times: 1...Being pricey. 2...Being fragile. Proof? For argument's sake, let's say appearence is 50% and reliability is the other 50% of the difference between a genuine Pat Phil watch and a replica. Everyone already knows they are expensive. Not 100% proof of course, but the drunk mentioned above could have his genuine PP Nautilus swapped in the bar for a high grade replica. He would probably not know the difference until he drops it on the sidewalk while staggering to an Uber and the winding rotor is still attached and the watch is still running when he picks it up. A genny would probably sound like a Diamondback Rattler. So...izzat proof enoof ?

"Do you think is it possible to cut the caseback and solder it again?" Possible but not worth the trouble and expense. It would need to be cut, laser welded, and refinished...probably more $$ than the whole project would cost using another case.

"I'm doing a fun franken project, it is based on a 1601 Rolex GEN dial. I've already done a franken 16014 Datejust with the Raffles 2836 case." The main problem when using the 'pie pan' 1600 dial is finding a thin 1600 type case. Because the dial is raised around the edge it allows the movement to sit higher in the case and uses a thinner case than when using a flat dial. This was a sign of the times (1950s/1960s) and the rlx 1600, some omegas (pie pan Constellations), and many other brands did this to make their watches appear to be thinner. Thin Was In Back Then. Case profiles from 'ogladio': https://rwg.cc/topic/159773-1601-case/ http://i.imgur.com/QEQCRl.jpg "So, for the raffles case there is no aftermarket possibilities?" I only listed the sizes of a few cases that I have, no telling what else is available. If the Raff case is made like a 16200 you might look into a thinner case because the 16200 cases have high 'shoulders' looking at them from the side where the 1600 cases are slim and streamlined. Example: I tried a '1016' project using a 36mm tudor type case made for an ETA 2824 and ran into two problems: 1...The low profile case back rubbed the autowind rotor on a thicker, lower beat ETA 2846. 2...The dial window and seat were too big for a 27.9mm oem spec dial. The dial window was 28.0mm and the dial fell through the front. Two good things: 1...It had the right profile when viewed from the side. 2...It had properly centered lug holes that could be enlarged. The project was abandoned and later came to life using a JMB case.

I needed a thinner case back on a DJ type case and used one from an old replica DJ from 12 or 15 years ago. It was 4.4mm thick overall measured from back side flat machined center to the front edge. Many of the 16200 replica case backs are a little bit thicker than that, I measured one and it was 4.75mm, not much but the outer contour makes it look thicker. It was .9mm thick in the flat center of the back so it could be thinned down a little. 'Front edge' = the outer edge of the case back that faces the front of the watch, not the gasket seat. Some of the exact same case backs had 1680, 1655, 16200 stamped inside them. Evidently there is no rhyme or reason to what was put on what back then. FYI... A genuine 1600 case back is 4.25mm thick overall and 2.65mm thick from gasket seat to the flat top. A genuine 16000 case back is 4.45mm thick overall and 2.75mm thick from gasket seat to the flat top. Genuine 16200 case back sizes next time I dig one out. A JMB '1016' case back is 4.25mm thick overall and 2.75mm thick from gasket seat to the flat top. All measurements are plus/minus a hair or two depending on machining tolerances and wear/polishing.

Thanks! That is some good info.

"So, I'm interested to hear some more feedback on those 1016 hands (and as always, learn a little bit more about vintage Rolex minutiae). From earlier research, I found that 1016 service hands (like the ones on this watch) are slightly shorter than original hands. Also found examples of original 1016 hands that are flat and don't quite brush the edge of the minutes track." I have some nos trit 1016 hands and remember they are a hair longer than 5512/13 hands and came with a 'short tube' second hand (no date works to rise above). Also have some nos 5512/13 hands and they are a little bit shorter than 1016 hands but in reality it does not really matter very much, to me anyway. Can not remember if they are flat on top or slightly curved. Many 1016 examples probably have 55xx hands on them by now anyway. On my 1016 project watches with ETAs I just use 55xx hands from ST etc. My '1016' with ETA 2824/2846 combo movement has hands that pass through the 3-6-9 numbers and just barely touch the inner ends of the minute markers. The dial is aftmkt oem spec (diameter, font etc) that is very similar to earlier 1016 dials. I just now looked for the 1016 hands but gave up after a short while, I do not want to start digging through it right now. I'll bookmark this thread and post about the hands if they turn up later. I did find two (2) nos sets of trit 1655 hands (24H, H, M, SS) that were forgotten so it was worth the effort. I have quite a bit of this stuff put away here and there and it is a hassle to dig through it without damaging or losing anything so it is basically forgotten until a part is needed. I never thought it would ever be worth much back when I bought it and since I hardly ever work on a genuine rlx now, all the parts that have been stored for years have sort of faded into the past...along with me. Ha! Update 1-8-21 I checked through some hands and the nos hands for 55xx watches are in glassine envelopes sealed inside the original plastic bags so I can not tell if they are flat or curved. I did not want to mash around on them and take the chance of cracking the lume. Did not find any 1016 hands this time around. I looked at a couple sets of older tritium take-offs from 15xx calibre submariners and the hands are flat, no curve at all but it is unknown what year models they came from. Also looked at a set of used tritium 1675 GMT hands and the H and M hands are flat...no hack, made 1968. I paid $325 for it in 1997 from a pawn shop.

"Why does the case neck size matter for the crystal? I thought that just sits in the bezel, in which case the bezel ID would be the relevant dimension here?" On oem rolex... Acrylic crystals need to be a very light press fit down over the case neck. Next, the bezel is pressed down over the crystal to clamp the crystal to the case neck for a water tight seal between the case neck and crystal inner sidewall. Submariners with an O ring under the bezel need a bit of extra care to be sure all surfaces are clean and any corrosion is removed and smoothed out if possible. If an acrylic crystal is a bit too loose on the case neck, maybe the bezel can squeeze it down enought to seal it without cracking the crystal...maybe not. If the crystal is too tight on the case neck to begin with, it may crack when being pressed over the case neck or crack when the bezel is pressed down over the crystal. Success depends on the proper fit of all the parts...ony a few 1/100 of a millimeter plus/minus. If the bezel seems too tight when being pressed down over an acrylic crystal, look straight down around the outer edge of the crystal with a 10x +/- loupe under bright light to see if it has cracked between the case neck and bezel after the bezel has been seated. Cracking may not show from the side, that is why you need to look straight down at it. If it is Ok, check it again in a few days. Sapphire crystals are mounted in a crystal gasket that lightly presses down over the case neck with the lower half of the crystal pressed down into the gasket. The bezel is pressed down over this two piece assembly and compresses the gasket against the case neck and outer edge of the crystal to seal it all together. This all sounds simple but the process if full of gremlins...wrong case neck OD, wrong bezel ID, bezel or case neck out of round (I have seen both), all kinds of variations in crystal sizes, improper bezel pressing tools, bezels getting out of level when pressing them down etc, etc. Never use sealer etc between the ID of the crystal sidewall and case neck, it may crawl over to the dial or act as a lubricant to allow the crystal/bezel combo to get smacked off. I will admit to using Dawn dish detergent 'a time or two' to lubricate the ID of a bezel so it will slip over an acrylic crystal with less friction. After it dries, it basically disappears and does not remain slippery. You did not read that here.

I give it a nine on a scale of ten. It gets a nine only because there are no tens. "A single domed acrylic crystal would be period correct right?" If the case neck is oem 16000/16200 DJ spec (29.5mm) and the ID of the bezel is also standard DJ spec (30.4mm), a crystal made for a rolex 1018 should work...number 25-21. A 1018 is basically a no date DJ. I do not have a GS part number for the 118 crystal but it should be on the 'net. Another good crystal brand is Sternkreuz and the 118 crystal p/n is 498/47 afaik...check to make sure. A 1016 bezel is 31.0mm ID because the crystal sidewall is thicker than a DJ. A 1016 crystal is number 25-22 and I would go with generic, not oem because they cost too much. For 1016 projects I use a GS 464-64C but they have the sharp top edge. You will have to shop around for a 1018 crystal because they are not as common as crystals for 1016 Explorers. If you end up going with a 1016 crystal and have the ID of the bezel cut to fit, try to find a crystal with the rounded top edge because most newer 25-22 crystals will have a sharp edge. You can round them off a little if needed because they are quite a bit thicker on top than a DJ crystal.

"Can the internal threads of crown that mates onto tube be reconditioned on the inside?" The short answer is probably not. It would be hard to do unless you have a very short 'bottom out' tap/thread cutter of some sort...or handy at making gravers and cutting threads on a lathe. 'Bottom out tap' = made to dead end, they basically cut full sized threads all the way to where they bottom out. Besides that, you would need to remove the telescoping clutch in the crown first, or have a special hollow tap. It could be done but not without a lot of hassle, providing there is enough 'meat' left on the threads inside the crown to begin with. On 5.3mm crowns you can sometimes run the crown down on a stainless steel case tube and straighten the threads up. I have a few steel 5.3mm case tubes but no steel 6.0 tubes. The steel 5.3mm tubes came from ST and I do not know if they have 6.0mm steel case tubes or not...or even if steel 6mm tubes are being made. They do make steel 7.0mm case tubes of course but the crown threads are too big for dress type crowns. First thing to do is clean the threads inside the crown as good as possible with a toothpick etc and see what's what. The case tube can be changed fairly easily and this along with cleaned up threads may give a year or two more service. "My understanding is that they are gold capped with a normal metal sleeve that contains threads!" Right, old style crowns have the internals made of something else, usually nickel silver with a cap crimped over it like a bottle cap. Later 'monoblock' crowns are solid one piece...steel, gold, platinum, pirate skulls etc.

Agree with freddy333 and Mr Sm. It looks (to me) like a DD case from china. DD cases are 'partially hooded' like the one in your picture. "The seller says that is a Vietnam one." Never saw a Vn case with a green sticker on it...that's a chi 'trademark'. Maybe the mail plane flew over Vn. Replica Builder Rule 1: Learn More. Buy Le$$.