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cskent69

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Posts posted by cskent69

  1. I guess the question is - do you modify a 1570 - or do you modify the case. I for one, would prefer to leave the 1570 exactely as is - since it is far more valueable.

    UPDATE: just read The Zigmeister's post on the datewheel holder ring on the 1570. It makes sense. Easy to replace and less risk. Ok - so maybe I will give up on the ND case. The only problem now is the the MBW case has that lousy etched HE valve. I will have to re-read the posts on that modification.

  2. Great topic. I have a mini-fiddy that I was going to swap a cali dial into (which is by definition - unbranded). However, the cali dial does not show the second hand (by design) which I think it kind of necessary on a wind up.

    SO - the question is - can you easily sterilize the dial? I do not mind the lack of print on the dial. Right now it says RADIOMIR PANERAI. I guess I can send to our great friend The Zigmeister and see what he has to say. My guess is that any solvent that takes the print off with also ruin the black paint - so it would have to be re-painted and then relumed. It is a sandwich dial so it might be possible to un-sandwich the dial before repainting the top (but then it also gets rid of the white lines around the second hand.

    If it could be done easily - that would be great. Not sure though. Does anyone have any experience with this? BTW - I love the mini-fiddy case.

  3. Check this out -

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...rksid=p3907.m29

    If you consider that this is way out of the ballpark of reasonable prices - and just cut it is half - then you still end up at $8,500 and it does not even have the silver datewheel.

    If the NDT case is really that close - then it would seem worth the $600 price. We are all a strange lot because we know that it can really be done for <500 easily. In fact - i would not even be interested in this is if the MBW case had a "working " and better looking HE valve - which we all know if about only $400 for the entire watch.

    I hope that someone gets a line on these cases.

  4. I have a very good 1665 from MBK as well, already. The problem is that it does not have the working HE valve and it looks, well, fake.

    Everything else is great, tons of mods. But the dial still needs work and the HE valve. I know that a genuine 1680 can be shoehorned in with the proper mods - but I am not willing to spend any more money on this case.

    There has to be a way to get the NDT case without this kind of markup.

  5. Does anyone actually own one of these - can't remember who said that he ordered one. I will look back through the thread. If you do own one of these - could you poast some close up pictures? The ones at NDT are not the best for our prying eyes. In particular for me - I was wondering if the HE value is "working". Would also love to see a picture of the great White caseback (versus the double red). Anyone have pics?

  6. Standard MBW case, aftermarket insert, replica hands and dial, genuine vintage 703 crown, genuine clasp with error (still genuine), gen endlinks (but not right ones for 1665, fake springbar in bracelet clasp. Forgot the dial, it's a standard MBW dial.

    Anything else?

    Ah - movement is gen. :)

    I am with Repaustria - i was thinking the same thing. It is beautiful. The Zigmeister - mine will be on its way when I get the movement and caseback!!!

  7. Thanks for the answers guys. From the looks of the case on the WM9 website - the stem hole did look like it was in the right place - but i guess it is really hard to tell until it is in your hands. In previous versions - the hole was so low - the case was not thick enough to use a genuine crown and tube.

    But - i really like this watch. I am not sure if I can hold out for 6 months to potentially get one with a thinner movement. I wish they had started with the ST18 from the get go.

    Well - thats what makes this the never ending hobby!

  8. Can anyone comments on the WM9 crown position. I remember that one of the items that has always setback the prior Sub reps was that the crown had to be set lower on the case to create the right rehaut depth when using the 2836. How is it that this rep can overcome that problem?

    Sorry if this has been discussed before - but I have searched the other wm9 threads and they are mostly before we had confirmation that this watch really exists and is different from the other ones out there.

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