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cskent69

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Posts posted by cskent69

  1. Looking good Marty!

    Here is my mixture:

    MBW 1665 case with HE Valve Mod

    Swiss Eta mvt.

    NDT 1665 dial with vintage patina

    Hands modded to match the dial patina

    Gen 585 end links

    Gen crown and tube

    Tropic 39 Superdom glass

    Drilled holes with gen pins

    Ubi flat 3 DW

    Hollow mid link bracelet 93150

    Gen vintagized insert with acrilic tritium pearl

    Case back stripped and aged

    CGs shaped and re polished

    Case re shaped and re polished

    Regards Laz

    laz - please tell us more about the HE valve mod! I have one of these 1665 modded beauties. But the fake HE has always been a thorn in my well laid plans.....

  2. I agree - i love watches with the Day date done just right. Here is my dilemna - for the most part - the A7750 does not handle the day wheel very well. It always looks wobbly or out of alignment - even when I change them to ETA daywheels. So for every one of these watches, I have to swap to a genuine 7750 or I can't stand looking at it.

    So far, I have a Slevin and 3717 with ETA 7750.

    Nearly all my other watches at least have the date.

    Most of my PAM's do not. Which gives them less wrist time.

    I am looking for my next good day date. Considered an omega - but was not in love with it.

    Any suggestions?

  3. 2892-A2 is thinner than the 2824-2. (0.30mm thinner on the dial side if measuring center stem to top of mainplate)

    You would need a spacer between the dial and movement in order to align the stem. Also, you would need to replace the date disc. The 2824-2 and 2892-A2 discs sit flush in the mainplate. So if you use a 2892-A2, the date disc would be 0.30mm away from the date window and look funny. You would need to find a 2834-2 disc as that disc sits up in the movement. (0.20mm taller than the flat disc in a 2824-2/2892-A2)

    Also, the 2892-A2 is slightly larger in diameter than the 2824-2. (0.02mm) So depending on how tight the movement holder is, it may not fit with the existing holder.

    Good news is, the dial feet are in the same location. But bad news is, you may have to swap the CP, HW in order to compensate for the 0.30mm spacer. You would probably only have to go up one hand fitting height to H.2.

    Damn - that is good info.

    Wow

  4. This has been a question that I have been wondering for quite some time - which I have not been able to answer because I have been reluctant to put the dollars down on the new "best Version" 104. What are really the improvements of the new Best Version over the old Ultimate.

    I have an old Ultimate 104. These are my observations on what I have pertaining to some of the topics we are discussing:

    1. The cyclops of the old 104 is good - but by no means great. The first problem is that the optics are too "centered". Meaning - it started to distort the numbers too quickly when you look at it off center versus the genuine. I think that it means that the curvature is off. This is why a lello DW actaully looks better in the old Ultimates as the Lello numbers are closer togethor than the cartels.

    2. The AR is way too heavy. The heavy bluish tint of the AR on the old Ultimate version is not at all what Panerai's really look like. The fact that the cyclops has the tint in it as well (and can be more pronounced in fact) is a major giveaway.

    Finally - there are folks who have written that the DW is too small for the 88 because the Datewheel is sunken and too far away. Apparently - the Datewindow cutout - which was the same for all the new Best versions (104, 88, 164, etc) is the same - and was in fact - meant to work for the non GMT's. (no sunken DW).

    I would like to know if the new Best version 104 cyclops is better than the old Ultimate 104. By guess, is that it is the exact same thing - hence why I have not bothered to purchase it yet.

  5. I think that we all just have to be a little more specific.

    I have two MBW vintages 1665 and a 1680. The 1665 with the MBW dial and my 1680 with the GEN dial both work with GEN spaced overlays. If you look at the MBW overlay - it is not designed to match up to the ETA spacing (on these vintages at least). In fact - i think that they were made specifically to shift the numbers to the correct Rolex spacing.

    It may not be the case on the new models (non-vintage). Does anyone else have the same experience?

  6. The gen is according to Rolex engraved out and then filled with white gold I believe.

    The rep is just engraved.

    I own a gen bezel and a rep watch, just not sure if the bezel or even the insert only will fit.

    The color is in fact different though, I have them 3 inches from each other.

    Cheers,

    M

    Any chance of a picture? I have been thinking about getting the IIc with the full ceramic bezel. People have been saying that it is more gray then black. Not sure if that is right or not. Thanks!

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