alligoat

I just file the inside of the bezel down slightly, slowly by hand and use 320 wet/dry to smooth it. Just keep moving around the bezel, a little at a time. Check periodically so you don't over do it, if you do, then you're chingaled!

Enjoy your trip, LH! The best one was in Mestre when my wife said the bar had free internet! 36 euros later I convinced my mother in law it was time to go get dinner. Cheers.

Looks good, bet you're enjoying the lume!

Heck, the watch looks decent, it is 54 years old and the movement looks fine to me. Sure, it probably needs a service. But I'm headed to Austin Thursday! I could track this guy down!

Excellent LH, glad to see you the chime in, and I would agree with your observation of the beveled edge T-21 being later. I remember your comparison post from earlier this year and enjoyed revisiting it just now. I'm pretty happy with the jandk crystal, I'm using it to replace the original DW crystal which was too loose. I've found these DW crystals to be a little slim on the OD- in the 30.4+mm range, whereas the aftermarket and gens are in the 30.55mm to 30.6mm. So when you swap in a better crystal, you then have to go back and file the bezel so it will fit over the better crystal. Enlarging the ID of the bezel is a slow process for me- 30 minutes to an hour of hand filing and sanding with lots of test fitting in between. But eventually you reach the point where you can press the bezel over the crystal with a good tight fit. LH, hope all is well. You left home as a typhoon was arriving. Are you having good luck finding free internet connections?

Looking at 'Rolex Daytona, a legend is born', it looks like either crystal is correct. I don't know if the domed top was first and the flat top w/ beveled edge was later or not.

It certainly is a beautiful bridge, and I'm sure we needed it. Just don't tell me what it cost, because I already know we can't afford it!

Good point Slick! I may have too many watches, but my wife still has more shoes!

Here's the one from jandkwatches- it's a beveled edge crystal on my 6239/7750 case- I like it. It's similar to the purported gen T-21 that I have. It's better than the DW crystal that came with the case, IMO. The watch on the right is the DW 6239/7750 w/ the 6238 dial- the crystal has the rounded edge The watch on the left is my 6238/9- V72 with the gen crystal

What's this? http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_12&products_id=1497

Like kbh says, if you still have the little pin and spring, that's good. If you turn the bezel over, you should see a thin wire- 8 sided- which keeps the bezel on the watch. At that point, all you have to do is press the bezel back on. If you did loose the little click pin and spring, you can still snap the bezel back on- it will just move either way. This is the old classic chinese bezel construction. Not very accurate, but it works! I've found this type of construction on Alpha watches also and other cheap reps. A shot of the backside of your bezel would also help if you can.

LOL! Double post JB, internet acting up? I use the #55 to drill sub holes. I think it may be just a little bigger than gen holes, but not enough to worry about.

These are all things I'm not going to worry about. I like my PT 1665 because it's a great watch. I made some mods and I have $400 in it. I'm not trying to pass it off as a gen, heck it's a great beater and it's WR to boot. I could buy a $10K gen, but then I wouldn't be swimming and fishing with it. The funny thing is, no one has ever asked me if my watch was a fake (except my daughter, who knows I collect and mod and build watches) and I'm happy to show it to my watch buddies- we're having fun doing it! A few little engravings, who give a hoot?

Next question is where did your 1030 movt come from, i.e. which watch was it taken from? I found with building a V72 rep that Valjoux used different plates for different mfrs, who in turn used different cases in building their watches. Maybe Rolex did the same thing, just a thought... Otherwise, it's just an inconsistency in the manufacturing process.

PT 1665 DW is the best thing out there. Yes, it's a little left, esp w/ an MBW dial, but check out what Dizzy did w/ his DW window. Enlarge the dial window a little (to the left)and you've got the best rep DW out there. I have the PT 1665 with an MBW dial.

You may or may not be able to swap in a plastic crystal. You could try a T-135- that's the crystal for a 16000 DJ series. You might have to sand the inside OD of your bezel to get it to seat over the crystal. Holes for a DJ are smaller. Sub holes are around 1.3mm, the slim part of a 2mm springbar is around 1.2mm. Don't know what DJ holes are, but they are the next size smaller, so to speak. LOL, I have one of those linen dials in my parts bin! Guess it came with one of the cases I got 3-4 years ago from roling on the bay.

I actually like my PT 1665 bracelet. But then again, all of my gen Rolex bracelets are 25-30 years old and in varying degrees of stretched out. The PT is correct w/ the 93150 markings and the 580 ends are ok, but really correct ends would be 585's. To get 585's, you'd have to pay $200+ if you can find them. And the springbars are 2mm which is nice. I did buy an MBW 93150 from Chris at ETZ before he went kaput, but I never put it on a watch- it had an unusual taper towards the clasp- but someday I'll use it- maybe on my cartel 5513.

LOL! The pictures are the same between Puretime and Trusty. The movements are different- swiss vs clone. Both look good with gold on the sides of the SEL middle links. Can't say they're noobs, but the gold on the sides of the center links of the SELs is a good sign. Take your pick and good luck!

Silver DW w/ flattop 3's is most correct for a 1665 as well as a 1680. Seems like Slartiblast was doing some correct DW's also. Might check with him. You can find old 2846-2's in some old Swiss watches- look around on ebay. But cannablizing a PT 1665 might be just as easy- you get the decent bracelet also, movement and DW. Dizzy was enlarging the date window on another PT product- 1680 as I recall- you might check that post. DW alignment on a PT 1665 sits slightly inside that of the MBW 1665. Polishing job looks good A!

Good looking watch JB! Which motor does it have?

Another JMB special- you just keep churning 'em out J! Looks good. Plastic crystal with a no lughole case, but I doubt anyone will notice.

26.5mm sounds like a 1665 dial. Gen Submariner 16800/16610 is 27.3mm According to Yuki, a 16660 Sea Dweller dial is 27.3 also Rep sub dials are typically 28mm+ Noob sub dial just came up 28.08mm on my chinese calipers. 29mm is big. Maybe a noob SD dial would be in the 28+ range

Looks like you'll be hanging out at VRM looking for parts A! Inserts and old bracelets are always coming up- you just have to be ready to jump when you see a good deal. A 9315 folded link bracelet would be cool. 285 or 385 ends would be good, but 280 or 380's would also do. Later 93150's with 585 ends are also OK. Inserts are also always popping up, good luck. My watchmaker has a machine that polishes plastic crystals- just pop the watch in and voila, you can see again!

Good point Freddy, dauphine hands in the 50's, straight hands in the 60's.

Nice job, Justin. That's a great looking dial. Look at the little bulge at the crown- that must be a trademark of LHOOQ!