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alligoat

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Everything posted by alligoat

  1. The guy has limited selling experience on the bay and private listings for some reason. But he's bought a fair amount- 95% of his feedback is from buying. Obviously he knows very little about Rolex, can't even give us a model # and it certainly looks like a very nice $5000 watch to me. Clearly the guys a liar, but has he technically commited a crime?
  2. Cool watch, Marty and thanks for sharing the story- that watch will always hold those memories of your dad for you.
  3. Here you go Nanuq: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/gen-702-crown-aftermarket-tube-62686.html Marsupilami also produced a run of 702 tubes awhile back, don't know if he has any left. I suspect others are producing them also, but not 100% sure about it. Mark Greenberg- moelarrycu on the bay- sells 702 crowns from time to time, used to cost around $70.
  4. Nice job J! But I'm going to send you a tube of Polywatch for xmas!
  5. I believe CousinsUK has decent aftermarket tubes- a little cheaper. I buy from wholesaleoutlet990 here in the states, but probably not worth it for you. Crowns- 703- are the early type with the more elongated crown emblem on the face of the crown and the later ones with a squatter crown- either is fine- the older ones are typically used.
  6. Your V72 looks fine, but it will never fool anyone, such as a serious collector, so why would you worry about it? It functions the same as a Rolex 727 movement, so I guess you can either enjoy the watch or sell it. Good luck.
  7. Yep, something is sticking in there. Time for a service.
  8. Although 25-295-C2 is the correct part for a Submariner crystal, I believe BK uses the 25-295-C1 on the WM9's. The crystal is the same, but the gasket is a wee bit taller on the C-1. The etched crown has been around for over 10 years, so any replacement gen crystal should have it. It should have an 'S' in the middle of the etched crown for 'service'. @ d-rock, the gen crystal is stepped. The top OD is 30.5 and the bottom OD is 29.5mm. Cousins has a good diagram of this http://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/4/494/1957.aspx Look under the generic mineral glass with date lens, for the 295 C-1 and C-2 to compare.
  9. Beautiful JoJo! Another fine example of franken building. Enjoy.
  10. I've never seen a Ladies DW! What about the $39 special from silix http://www.silix-prime.com/rol009-p-843.html And then you take what you want out. Of course there's also the $20 shipping.
  11. I remove the rep tube with a rat tail file. if it's glued in, you may need to heat up the case (movt is removed, of course). You should then tap the hole with the 3.0mm x .35 tap to at least clean out the glue/gunk. Check the size of the case tube threads you remove- if they're close to the gen/aftermarket 24-7030 tube you can just run the tap thru. If it's too tight, you may need to drill the hole- 2.65mm drill bit- not easy to find. I have broke off a tap in the case once- MBW case- don't think the new MBW cases have such a small hole.
  12. The tube is PN 24-7030-0 for a 7mm tube- last 0 denotes ss. 24-7030-8 would denote a gold case tube- you rarely see those. Crown is 24-703-8- gold 7mm. If I were doing a TT sub, I'd use the ss tube and the gold crown- it's not that big a deal to me. Keep looking for tutorials, there's bound to be some around- hidden deep in the bowels of the archives!
  13. So as they drive away customers and disallow parts accounts, the end result will be a flourishing aftermarket parts business. And China's just the country to take on this challenge since they could give a rat's a** about copyright laws in the first place. Of course, I don't own a Rolex that's less than 27 years old so I've never supported an AD or RSC. Wonder what this will do to guys like Bob Ridley, but he'll probably just buy the 125 atm tester and go on. He's good no doubt, but he's also proud of his work.
  14. A crystal swap and a gen bezel insert change should go off w/o a hitch. Worst case scenario would be having to use a little glue to keep the gen insert in if you don't get a firm snap-in connection.
  15. Neither watch is exactly correct. Check out a gen from 2009, http://cgi.ebay.com/2009-18kt-SS-Rolex-Blue-SUBMARINER-List-9-300-/390077751026?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item5ad2721ef2 The dial markers are smaller. Mary's maxi markers are correct for a 116613 probably. But that would be the newer fatter case. The second watch which you're getting should have the fatter minutes hand to go with the maxi marker dial. The clasp is for the newer 116613 also. Good news is it looks like the center SELs have gold returns on the sides. The crown guards on you watch also need a trimming- straighten them up some. This is a problem for the dealers because the factories are like a moving target- always changing stuff- basically building watches with whatever parts are available. And trying to point out subtle details to chinese dealers is like talking to the wall- I did it yesterday with DW! Luckily I can take what he's got and mod it to my liking. In your case, I don't know what you do. Maybe you ignore the minor inconsistencies and trim the cg's and go on...
  16. You've heard from four pros and I'm going to make a few more quick points and be done. 1. As Nanuq said, this is a great enry level watch. Accept it for what it is. 2. Quit worrying about the case back. It's correct for a DRSD, but not for a GWSD. But no ones going to know or care. I'd be surprised if you can find a suitable correct replacement. 3. You might consider keeping the stock crystal on the watch- it is correct for a GWSD. If you do decide to swap, be ready for a challenge. You'll probably have to get a crystal retaining ring made, because the PT assembly sucks and you probably won't be able to get the whole thing together the way it was originally assembled. Luckily we have jmb who can make crystal retention rings fairly easily. I bought my watch for $223 w/ shipping and spent another $200 on mods. The only thing I'd consider doing at this point is maybe working on the cg's some more- which doesn't cost me anything since I do it myself. Beyond that, I'm at the point of diminishing returns, IMO. But this is a great beater- it's WR and I love to wear it for the dirty work- when I'd prefer not to tear up a gen watch. That's what I love about reps most- they look great and who cares if you total out a $400-600 watch, you can always build another. My watch has an MBW dial- better than the PT dial, but there are some DW alignment issues on certain dates, others are perfect. gen crown and aftermarket tube aftermarket high domed T-39 from G&S crystal retention ring from jmb modded cg's I did see a gen GWSD on VRM for $8500 the other day- that's about the bottom of the market for a gen, unless you take your chances on fleabay.
  17. Seems I can't quote previous posts! Interesting, kbh! I can't understand why the factory would discontinue the SSD, unless they're too busy building the DSSD. @Maga, King is an approved dealer, but I can't tell you anything about shipping to Europe- I'm in the USA!
  18. Looks good Frank! I thought this was a V1.5. I do like the gen insert though.
  19. Welcome aboard! Josh has it- this is the economy version with the asian 2813 movt http://www.1-pc8838.com/rlsd10103-superlite-dweller-black-asian-2813-free-ship-p-5085.html Other versions w/ the asian eta and swiss eta cost more, but they're around also.
  20. No easy answer here A! You could try Narikaa and see if he could source you one from MBW- make sure it's correct like Dizz says. With ETZ gone, there's not much else around. You could steal one from your PT 1680 and then try to get some 585 end pieces. VRM is another option, but you're looking at $450+ for a not so decent gen. Clasps can be bought for $150-200, again used so condition varies. My old cartel 1665 DRSD came with a 93150 bracelet and the fantasy clasp. I swapped out a 78360 fliplock clasp, put on some 593 ends and ended up with a decent bracelet. Good luck and let us know if you come up with an easy answer!
  21. It might work Dizzy, but all you can do is try. As I found out, not all V72's will even work in a DW V72 case. This is because the plates are slightly larger than the standard 13 ligne movement. My V72 in my Heuer was that way- the movement was actually slightly larger than a standard V72. The Heuer watch was 38mm across, unlike a lot of the V72 watches which are in the 35-36mm range casewise. Stem height is another complication- the MM and V23 don't have the added hour counter functions which could thicken the movement and alter stem position. All you can do is try, or possibly save yourself the headaches and order a V72 case from DW.
  22. Diesel, let me clarify, these are two different cases, one for the V72 and one for the 7750 movement. You can't fit a 7750 in the V72 case, that I'm aware of. The assymetric pushers work with the 7750 movement because of the way the movement is set up- there's a range of area where the pushers will work which is larger than you would expect, not just one point. So even though you have assymetric pushers in the 7750 case, they still contact the movement correctly to operate the chrono stop/start buttons.
  23. The two cases are different- V72 and 7750/60. You can however drop a std 7750 into a DW 7750 case w/ assymetrical pushers w/ no problem. Watch on the right is cartel 6238 (symetrical pushers) that I dropped into a DW 6239/7750 case. Left is the V72 cased, 6238/9 transitional.
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