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Everything posted by alligoat
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No easy answer here A! You could try Narikaa and see if he could source you one from MBW- make sure it's correct like Dizz says. With ETZ gone, there's not much else around. You could steal one from your PT 1680 and then try to get some 585 end pieces. VRM is another option, but you're looking at $450+ for a not so decent gen. Clasps can be bought for $150-200, again used so condition varies. My old cartel 1665 DRSD came with a 93150 bracelet and the fantasy clasp. I swapped out a 78360 fliplock clasp, put on some 593 ends and ended up with a decent bracelet. Good luck and let us know if you come up with an easy answer!
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It might work Dizzy, but all you can do is try. As I found out, not all V72's will even work in a DW V72 case. This is because the plates are slightly larger than the standard 13 ligne movement. My V72 in my Heuer was that way- the movement was actually slightly larger than a standard V72. The Heuer watch was 38mm across, unlike a lot of the V72 watches which are in the 35-36mm range casewise. Stem height is another complication- the MM and V23 don't have the added hour counter functions which could thicken the movement and alter stem position. All you can do is try, or possibly save yourself the headaches and order a V72 case from DW.
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Diesel, let me clarify, these are two different cases, one for the V72 and one for the 7750 movement. You can't fit a 7750 in the V72 case, that I'm aware of. The assymetric pushers work with the 7750 movement because of the way the movement is set up- there's a range of area where the pushers will work which is larger than you would expect, not just one point. So even though you have assymetric pushers in the 7750 case, they still contact the movement correctly to operate the chrono stop/start buttons.
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The two cases are different- V72 and 7750/60. You can however drop a std 7750 into a DW 7750 case w/ assymetrical pushers w/ no problem. Watch on the right is cartel 6238 (symetrical pushers) that I dropped into a DW 6239/7750 case. Left is the V72 cased, 6238/9 transitional.
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Damn, now where the hell did I put that winning lottery ticket?
alligoat replied to JoJo35's topic in The Rolex Area
Patent pending have a HE valve, it was just before Rolex had received a patent for it. I'm not sure how many were produced- maybe 50-100, maybe less. Many were trashed out in diving. This one isn't a collaboration with Comex per se- the ones with the Comex dial were built for Comex. Much of the feedback Rolex got in developing this model came from Comex. This case has been polished and looks pretty thick to me, esp. at the bezel. -
Damn, now where the hell did I put that winning lottery ticket?
alligoat replied to JoJo35's topic in The Rolex Area
Ah, but what about the story on VRF about the water polo team which had the 5513's with that clasp. I like the crown on the water polo watch better. -
The winding crown is a 24-700- no dots under the crown. That's right for a 1971 watch. Caseback engraving looks unusual in one pic, but I don't know that much about Tudors. Looks like a pretty nice example, certainly in great condition for a 39 year old watch.
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The Rolex crown, 24-703-0, and tube, 24-7030-0, have been copied by the rep people and are very accurate. You can compare the BK crown to your gen and then decide if you want to change or not. On the PT 1665, the tube is fine, but the crown is a tad too tall. I ended up switching out both since I boogered up the tube trying to take it out. It is easier to trim cg's w/o the tube in your way. But w/ a BK WM9 you don't need to trim cg's! Good luck.
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As long as the stem of the 2678 is a .9mm/tap 10, it will fit the gen crown. I'm pretty sure it is. You can just change out the crown because it will fit the WM9 case tube. When you change out the tubes, you need the tap to clean out the threads in the case- 3.0mm x .35- and then you need the Rolex tool for installing the tube in the case. That and a dab of thread locker (red loc-tite) on the threads and you're good to go. Good luck.
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Looks good, JB. A dark brown croc strap and you're there. This is a dk brown croc strap, just a bad pic.
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Great info, automatico! Thanks. I have a vintage Roamer chrono where the crystal popped out- this may be just what I need.
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Wonder if it's a T-1!
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It's a slow process, Just keep sanding in a circular motion around the inside edge. Boring as all get out, but eventually you'll get there.
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Va bene, M! e ciao ciao ciao.
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Swapping in a gen clasp is a good idea, but the good ones will run $150. Here's one where the coronet has been polished almost smooth- pretty common for 30 year old clasps. http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Rolex-original-1680-Submariner-fliplok-buckle-/270654070183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f043d5da7
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Watchbuys is the only distributor in the US. I don't know how you'd do ordering from overseas. I bought this 303 Silber about 3 years ago- it's the most accurate watch I own- beats my Rolexes hands down. WR to 200m/660ft. I paid back then about what a U1 costs from Watchbuys these days. I consider the 7750 in this watch to be chronometer grade- it's accurate to within a minute a month! I'm pretty impressed with Sinn quality.
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The yuki bracelet isn't worth it- marked 93250 on the back, it has solid middle links to boot and the wrong dive extension. Stick with the PT bracelet- smooth it down w/ some 400 wet/dry if the edges are too sharp for you. It's really not a bad rep bracelet for the price. You can pick up a used gen for $400 if it's really bothering you. I did like the new Yuki offering- an almost decent 5508 w/ a 2824 motor- replace the pearl and you're good to go http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/7617720/8337563.htm oh yeh, age the dial and hands a little too. Heck, age the watch period.
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Those are the gen tubes, you need the generic. Like Dizzy, I've had good luck with the 24-7030 tubes from Mr. Slimeball. I broke too many of the clark's so I quit using them. Might give Cousinsuk a try if I need any more
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Looking for a gen rolex clasp for a 1665 Great White....
alligoat replied to Prsist's topic in The Rolex Area
The correct codes on the clasp would be like VC, VD, or VE for instance, which would be the late 70's up til '80 or so. But I've seen 1665's as late as 1983, even though the 16660 was already out at that point. Look around for a list of the clasp codes and the corresponding dates. The 93150 came out around 1976-7 as I recall. Prior to that a 9315 would be correct for a DRSD of course. But bracelets do get changed out as the links get stretched out, so replacements bracelets are common even on gens. -
Cool LH. I know we've got friends over there in Italy, I just never know where in Italy they are.
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Sorry to see your 7032 take a spill on the sidewalk LH. All I can think of is to google watchmakers in Rome or where ever you are- in Italian, of course! Good luck.
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Http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/message/1287729322/Okay+I+know+someone+is+on+this...+6538+A.... The guys over at VRF picked up on it also
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Thanks for the heads up, Freddy.
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Josh 1655 + Clark 116 - Need help getting bezel on.
alligoat replied to pr0digy30's topic in The Rolex Area
Might be time to invest in a $10 pair of calipers. Cousins UK shows two 116 crystals, one with a 30.0mm OD and another with a 30.2mm OD. The cyclops are also positioned differently- one 98 from the CL and the other 87. http://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/4/494/1957.aspx