alligoat

I don't think the size of the balance wheel has anything to do with the beat. And I think the only real way to check the beat is to put it on the machine, like the one your watchmaker has!

Sorry Toad, Here's what they're saying on one of the forums: http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?p=1438717 it's just a rebirth of a previous scam site- these guys move pretty quickly. it sure would be cool if the FBI could catch upo w/ these guys!

The pics are fine, but the prices are too good! I tried to google United-Watches.net and couldn't find them, there is a unitedwatches.net w/o the hyphen in NY selling other types of watches. You can't tell from their website where they're located, no phone number, prices below wholesale. I like the solid gold YM for $6200, but $8-9K would be about as low as I would expect for a legitmate seller. All the markings of a SCAM-SITE.

I'm sure you've probably thought of this option: http://cgi.ebay.com/RETAINING-BEZEL-INSERT-FOR-ROLEX-1680-5513-5517-PARTS_W0QQitemZ400026397038QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d236e696e never know if it would work till you try it! I don't know if Clark's Watch Supply might be able to get one. Plan B is to order a whole case from Eurotimez and then maybe get jmb to copy the part. Of course a watchmaker with a Rolex parts account could get you one, but I have no idea what it would cost. Lastly, I don't know if these guys could help you any or not- they're kinda like Mr. Slimeball- aftermarket parts, only so-so: http://cgi.ebay.com/BLACK-BEZEL-INSERT-COMPLETE-SET-FOR-ROLEX-SUB-5513_W0QQitemZ290365870990QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439b27938e I bought the 16610 bezel for my Euromariner from them, ended up using the Euro part w/ a gen tension ring that I happened to find on the bay.

Since the ss version isn't out yet, and I don't know if the AD's even have it yet, you can go to Rolex's website. I'm thinking it would be similar to the 116619- the 2008 White Gold Submariner- polished center links and the new clasp: http://www.rolex.com/en/index.jsp#/en/collection/oyster-perpetual/submariner-date/white-gold/M116619LB-0001/brochure/innovations/bracelet/ Either way, you can be sure this will add another grand to the price of a new Sub!

Here's an interesting 10K solid gold band: http://cgi.ebay.com/10K-YELLOW-GOLD-BAND-STRAP-FOR-MENS-ROLEX-PRESIDENT_W0QQitemZ230292028493QQcmdZViewItemQQptZWristwatches?hash=item359e797c4d I've heard about 9 and 10K bands being made over in China. Just don't know if the color will match your case. This seller also has the 18K bands for around $2788. You can always try the GP bands, just get a few.

I agree with Flex on this, but I just got to thinking that if the MBK dial is in the 28mm range w/ eta feet, it might be a great swap in one of the vintage rep cases for a GMT. This would give you a vintage GMT w/ a better dial (i.e. no 'DATE' in the Oyster Perpetual- a big downfall of all of the vintage GMT reps) like this one from Trusty: http://www.tt88time.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=307&zenid=a439979b9e72bdb79130e1f8889311e0 Also, does MBK make a vintage GMT? With that dial it would be nice. The problem with Yuki and NDT stuff is you almost have to go w/ the 1575GMT movement or you're taking a chance trying to fit an eta in the case- will it work??? Could be an expensive lesson.

The seller calls it the 23j 2008. I opened it up and it looks like a std. asian auto w/ purple and blue gears and what I call the WO symbol under the balance wheel. I used to think that was the symbol of PTS Resources over in China, but now days I'm not so sure. At any rate, it's been a good steady beater. I put a $10 ss oyster bracelet on it- bouquemetro also sells those. It does have a plastic crystal and is a little smaller than the std 40mm ExplorerII, but you can't beat the price!

I don't see how you can go wrong w/ the Adventurist from Bernard Watch, or the one on ebay for that matter. Shoot, the 2893 alone is worth around $250-300. Jeff Bernard has an excellent reputation from what I know and I bought a watch from them a couple of years ago. Avier is his own line as far as I can tell. Has some nice deals on used Rolexes from time to time, also. It would be interesting to find out where this watch is put together, knowing what we all do about watches. I'd love to know where Bill Yao's watches are assembled, also. As a side note, I bought one of these Chronotacs a few months ago, it was cheaper then- $59,99 + $12 s&h. Been a great little watch for the price- haven't checked out WR yet: http://cgi.ebay.com/70s-chronotac-oyster-case-explorer-2-automatic-watch_W0QQitemZ360202294365QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFR_YO_BijouxMontres_Montres?hash=item53ddbad45d

TeeJay, you certainly bring up a valid point, if you're not sure, buying the $108 a21j DJ is fine. I've got four of them myself- 2 have crapped out and 2 really aren't my style. I have two frankens, the 16014 above and a 16013TT, both cost me around $500 each to build and have eta motors. I think they're very nice and consider building frankens as being at the top of the replica pyramid. As far as DJ's are concerned, redwatch pointed out the WM9 DJ's which are probably very close to a franken in quality, etc. Next down the line is a good eta based rep and finally the a21j DJ's. Everyone has to ask themselves how much they are comfortable spending and what level of quality they are interested in. I have both a21j reps and eta powered reps, but I always consider the eta reps as being a step above the a21j's. Whether it's worth it to you to pay more for an eta is a question only you can answer. It is for me.

I'd be more inclined to go up a notch and do something like this: http://www.tt88time.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_12&products_id=1906&zenid=53b90c2ef3a28dfadff9b8d3636954cc If you truely got a Swiss eta, it would be great, but even if you got a clone, you could swap out for a true Swiss eta later if you needed to w/o much hassle.

It's either 24-703-8 or 24-704-8. New Daytonas and YM's use the 704, I just don't know about the GMTIIC. I may have a list of crown applications- will look around. BTW, the 24-600 is ancient- circa 50-60's.

Yes, the bezel assembly for the 16800 and 16610 are the same. Since the movements are different (3035 vs 3135), the cases are different- rehaut on the 16800 is shallower than the 16610.

Yeh, I just need to buy a set of those just to check them out. With the modern noobs, MBK/Euromariners and WM9's using decent copies of the gen, they've got to be available.

Finding a white dial w/ stick markers isn't easy. On my 16014, I ended up with an old silver dial which had faded to a lite beige/off white. But that gives it character- a 30 yr old DJ. Case came from roling on ebay- very nice, but haven't seen him around lately.

Tapping the hole in the case takes a 3.0mm x .35 tap. On MBW's it might be a good idea to drill out the case hole w/ a 2.65mm drill bit, then tap. Crown is the 7mm, 24-703-0, tube is the 24-7030-0, the last 0 denotes ss. Might not be a bad idea to pick up the little wrench tool for installing the case tubes- Ofrei and Jules Borel have them. Taps can be bought for less if you look on line- do a search. Maybe $6 ea plus s&h- beats Ofrei and JBorel! Easy to buy a couple at that price. I've beem doing well recently with the aftermarket casetubes that Mr. Slimeball sells (wholesaleoutlet990). Jewelerstools sells used 24-703 crowns- cheaper the more you buy. Used to be able to buy them for $20 or so on the bay, now maybe $35. I still haven't the guy over in HK w/ the $14+ crown and casetube- it would be nice if those are decent copies!

Beautiful job T, certainly a classic and just what this hobby is all about. Tres Magnifique!

They appear the same, but with slight differences in the engravings. The NDT case and dial run $2000. Why not see if your guys will build you 6538 w/ the Yuki case and dial- maybe you could save a grand- that would be a good deal.

WM9 inserts are the same dimensions as the gen- 37.6 OD and 30.6 ID. The BK formula is to buy the jewelryoutlet555 insert (Rolex Part # 315-16800) and put the watchmaterial.com pearl in there. Good insert for under $30. Other places also sell decent inserts- you can look on ebay.

Perry, if you don't want to fool w/ a 1030 movt, and I can certainly understand why not, why not just get the MBW 6538 from Eurotimez? $400 plus s&h w/ a swiss eta. You could make a few mods if you wanted, age it and be set to go. If you buy a Yuki case and try to fit another movement in there, you'll be doing a lot of experimenting. No one else has done anything like that around here that I know of. you could easily blow $1K or 1500 and just have a bunch of parts.

Maybe Chris at Eurotimez would sell you a noob dial w/ eta feet. The postage and handling would be more than the dial's worth!

I have an old DRSD from Andrew. The valve is actually a pretty good copy of the original. It has an o-ring so it can be compressed from the outside very slightly (as it goes deeper). But it has a metal spring on the inside of the case that allows the valve to go out as the gases expand. This typically occurred in diving bells using helium while coming up from depths. Otherwise the crystal would blow off! However, the HE valve, the 93150 hollow mid-link bracelet and the silver datewheel are the only good points of Andrew's CN DRSD! It's slightly smaller than the MBW's and gen, crystal, insert, etc. don't fit, but it was one of my first reps and only cost $139 at the time w/ a gen eta. But that was 4-5 years ago! But to check it out, you'd have to remove the movement and look on the inside of the case.

Nice pics, JB. And not a bad watch considering the price. Looks like you have the silver datewheel. The plastic crystal is interesting- flat top w/ sloped sides- a chinese invention, no doubt. Maybe a $15 all acrylic pearl might fit in there, you can certainly drill the lugholes, the teeth on the bezel are way too sharp- you could wear those down, trim the insides of the cg's a little. A strong dose of artificial aging would go a long way on improving the looks of your '40 year old watch'! I'd love to know if you have a working HE valve- some of the CN DRSD's do.

Freddy's right, Rolex hasn't made the 1030 in something like 50 years. You might want to ask the seller what he means by the winder not working- if the stem or crown is slipping, it might be simple to fix. If it's related to the auto-wind assembly, that could ba another matter. Parts are tough to find- I'm not even sure if Rolex has them anymore- they don't do much to support their vintage models- some RSC's won't even service the 1500 series movements. Here's another 1030 I found- might be a better candidate- serviced not too long ago, in the USA: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120483948891&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Yes! But don't ask me what the sizes are, I can't remember.