alligoat

Now that I look at it again, I think your case clamps have to go under that inner silver lip. The gold spacer ring has to be tight against the dial- sometimes it's a tight fit and take s a little coaxing to get it all the way in. But heck, if Rex is going to work on your crown/stem issue, I'd just let him do the whole thing. However, since your case clamps fit the ETA movement, they should be fine for securing the movement to the case, I would think. In a few weeks I'm going to be trying the same move- putting an ETA from a noob in the Euro V3.

Maybe you could just screw the crown down on the stem more to shorten it. If that doesn't work, you have to cut the stem, but you have to be careful not to booger up the threads. Might be something for a watchmaker to help you with. You got a Euromariner case, is it just the case, or did it come w/ a spacer ring for positioning the movement? If the noob ring and movment are still moving after you've tightened the case clamps, maybe the noob ring is too small for the Euro case. The 2836 and DG2813 are basically the same size, but it wouldn't surprise me that the spacer rings are different. Once again, a watchmaker probably could help you out. Mine came up with spacer rings when I built my two Frankenjusts. Or you have to get Chris to send you a spacer ring. That would be a PITA for one measly spacer ring! Might as well order a whole watch and have him throw in an extra spacer ring!

Precious Time's is the same watch as a WM9. PT, as he's called, is a dealer here in the dealer section, but you have to join up to view the dealer section. Well worth it IMO.

You'd probably be better off going to a local watchmaker- one who's rep-friendly. BTW, I've never heard of a press on crown, (but that doesn't mean anything) and if you need parts, they're going to have to come from China. Typically, a Navitimer would be powered by an asian 7750 with a screw on crown. Also, an asian stem probably won't match a Swiss one. Maybe your dealer could send you a stem and a crown- just in case.

Wow! A month in France. Hope you guys have a blast. I'd be happy with a long weekend over there.

Well, I'm sure there is a tutorial on this, but the search button isn't my friend! It's probably buried deep in the archives and by now the pics might even be gone! You need a 1.2mm screwdriver, first and foremost. Open the case, pull out the crown- people never seem to agree as to which position to pull it out to- maybe all the way out to the time setting position. Then you stick the screwdriver in the small slot next to where the crown/stem enters the movement- it's a slot with a circle in the middle- and gently pull the crown out. Next, you remove the two screws and hold down clamps- keep them away from the hairspring. Then you cover the movement w/ some watch paper, flip the case over, and the movement should come out. Sometimes the movement ring will keep it in, you might have to gently coax it. The biggest downfall is using the wrong size screwdriver and messing up the keyless works while trying to remove the crown/stem. I watch my watchmaker do it with a pair of tweezers, but obviously he does it everyday. The rest of us need to use a 1.2mm screwdriver, period!

Mickey's absolutely right- there's nothing you can do with the dial. If you service the movement, you've done all you can do.

I really doubt anyone can see the difference between a 6 beat and an 8 beat- 2813= 21600 and 4813 = 28800 bph. Euro charges $25 upcharge for the 4813 over the 2813. Next step is the 2836-2 ETA and that's where the big price jump is. For the long run, I'm partial to ETA's cause I've tried changing out DG2813's and had no luck- but than again, my watchmaker has begrudgingly serviced the CN movements and made them good again- for around $40 a pop. True ETA's can always be serviced.

The YM and the TT sub have the same serials w/ different prefaces- Y and R. The movement in the YM is from PTS Resources- referred to as the DG2813- it's the best of the CN movements. The Tt has an ETA. Both cases are CN. The Daytona is the older seconds at 9 as you say- these are becoming classics- well worth keeping- servicing the asian 7750 movt is well worth it- it will make it a reliable daily beater- but it's been that for you already. Nice classics!

Welcome aboard! There's some great stuff here and I'm sure you'll enjoy the learning experience. I know I have. We've got great dealers and great members, a great community and a place that you can pursue the hobby and have fun at the same time- no rip offs here.

That 315-5513 insert from PMWF that freddy pointed out earlier this week would be a good second choice if you can't source a gen. Looked to be a decent acrylic pearl.

Is this the Pro-Hunter from Angus? Crown guards look OK. Crown sits too low as usual, and the pearl looks suspect, rehaut appears a bit shallow. But maybe with a better insert, you'd be OK. PVDing a Euromariner and gen crown is a lot of work, I'd wonder if it's worth it.

Man P, you've been busy lately! That dial in there now gives it the older 1016 look. Or is it the T-22 crystal that makes the dial look old? At any rate, very nice, congrats.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ries%26_fvi%3D1 If you look at the second movement picture of this watch- you will see ROW printed on the bottom of the main plate (?or bridge). Rolex Werk. I've never really trusted Jose and Sister, but watch does look better from what we've learned- Swiss at 6 o'clock. Bezel insert w/ no pearl- not an MBW flat white pearl. I'd have to go along w/ freddy on this- it looks gen to me.

I ran across the NOS dial from Andrew Shear in NYC on ebay- 7016 in gilt: http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Rare-Original-Tudo...id=p3911.c0.m14 Thought you guys might like it for comparison to these rep dials.

Very nice. It's amazing how long the 5513 lasted with the 1520 movement inside. But I agree with Frank, the correct all acrylic pearl in the bezel insert is a must.

The 16520 series of Daytonas are few and far between these days- supplanted by the running seconds at 6 latest models. Here's a TT from Silix- would be a 16523, I guess: http://www.silix-prime.com/product.asp?id=1344 This watch should be more reliable than a seconds at 6, but may still need a service at some point. Sub dial spacing is off from the gen, but after servicing it should be a good dependable watch. If I were to get a modern Daytona- this would be it.

Very nice w.genzo! Were the three wheels to give you more height to clear the date wheel? I'm thinking it's a 3135 datewheel, btw. I love the white dial- just really looks fine with all of that ss around it.

It took me a while to google Cas-Kers. Here's their crystal: http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/product4385.html Who has the best generic 295C crystal? I did notice that they had a lengthy list of Rolex watch movement parts listed- real Rolex parts.

Here's Clark's http://cgi.ebay.com/Clark-Sapphire-crystal...1742.m153.l1262 Ofrei is at ofrei.com- look under generic Rolex parts Wholesale outlet- aka jewleryoutlet555 http://cgi.ebay.com/SAPPHIRE-WATCH-CRYSTAL...id=p3286.c0.m14 Here's a 4th guy I ran across today- this guy is different from wholesaleoutlet/jewelryoutlet555- that Faisal Ali turkey- down in Sugar Land, a SW suburb of Houston. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=140036027008 I ordered one of these just to see what it's like- it appears to have the groove in the middle of the crystal- similar to gen hopefully. Should get it early next week.

Thanks Chief for the update. Along the same lines, I ran across another supplier on ebay this morning: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...=tab%3DWatching Jewelryoutlet2005- at first I thought it was the same as the guy down on Sugar Land- Faisal Ali- and his two companies- wholesaleoutlet and jewelryoutlet555, but it appears to me to be a different seller. I was wondering if anyone had tried one of these 295C crystals yet- it looks like he has the groove in the center of the crystal, wonder what the date mag is like.

LOL Marty, if you know how to get a tap out of a case, let me know. That MBW case is sitting on the bench with the broken tap in it. I can't for the life of me figure how to get it out- but I do have some ease-outs from my flooded Galveston Bay house- the workshop had 6 feet of water in it- maybe the smallest one would work. I sure hate to waste a perfectly good case.

Shawn, tube installation isn't easy- I just busted off a tap in an MBW 16610 case last month- guess I should have drilled it first. Removing the existing tube- either a rat tail file jammed in there- turn counterclockwise to remove, may need to heat slightly if it's glued in there, or a T-8 or T-9 Torx bit might unscrew it for you. Last resort is turn it out of there with a pair of pliers- you'll never use the tube again anyway. Clean the hole with a Rolex tapping tool- 3mm x .035- the one for the 6mm and 7mm case tubes- you can go to JulesBorel.com and you'll find one for $35 plus s&h. If your existing hole is too small, you have to drill it out before you tap it, or you risk busting your tap like I did last month on my MBW. Don't know the size drill bit- maybe 3mm. After tapping the hole, you need to chamfer or countersink the case so the tube will sit correctly in the case and the crown will screw down flush. A larger drill bit the size of the outside of the case tube will do the trick- can'rt remember which size though. You then need the tool for installing the case tube- julesborel again- another $35 or so. It's the new sytle tool for installing Rolex case tubes- 6 and 7mm. I use a little thread-lock compound and screw it in after dry fitting it first. After that you just unscrew the rep crown and screw in the gen crown to the stem of the movement and away you go. BTW, the Euromariner case tube will accept a gen crown, I believe- it might be a whole lot easier if you just replace the rep crown with a gen and leave the case tube alone.

Welcome aboard. You're in the right place, now all you have to do is start reading, searching and learning. You don't say which type of Daytona you want, so first off you need to establish that. Modern or Vintage, for instance. I will tell you that the modern ones with the running seconds at 6 are not terribly reliable. Vintage models like the 6263 are OK, but once again you have to compromise on the low end of the price spectrum (under $500). And if you decide to build a franken, you could easily spend $2000-3000. There's so much to learn, it will take weeks or months! Also, if you spend some money and join up, you will have access to the dealers section. Then you can see what all is available- well worth it IMO.

Welcome aboard. The last Air-King that I bought was maybe a model 5500 with a 1520 movement- gen- for $880. You might consider looking around for a gen. The older ones can be found for a reasonable price. Good luck.