alligoat

From looking at the Rolex bracelet charts I've seen that: 501B's fit the 5513 and 16610 (93150 bracelet) 580's fit 1680 and early 1665 " 593's fit the 16800 " 585's came along later for the 1665- maybe the GW model What the slight differences are between the end links are, I don't know- I guess there are slight variations in the cases which need to be accommodated with the different end links.

Yep, Jewelry and Watch- the expensive rep game. Just like these guys http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/ Consensus is this is the good quality high dollar stuff coming out of Viet Nam. But if you want to build a $2-3K rep of a $10-30K watch, these are a couple of your choices. Certainly a step above MBW/MBK.

That dial is atrocious. And there is no Valjoux 72 R- the R is the Valjoux symbol- like a copyright logo. V72's were A, B, and C. The C was the triple date movt. After that it was 722, 723, etc.

Countersink the hole and use gasket sealer. The other o-ring may fit around the crown stem as I recall, if you need it. When I tried it on the tube threads going into the case it got all distorted, so I took it out and used gasket sealer. And make sure you tap the hole all the way with the tap- the Clark tube is delicate and I've snapped off a couple.

For a while I thought he was wearing a SS Datejust w/ polished center links, but after watching Season 1, I'd agree w/ the Yacht-Master. Can you say Rolesium? On dress ocassions, I've noticed he puts on a gold watch w/ black strap, I believe.

Try http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/ I just ordered the 5508 case and a gilt dial- now I'm looking for the 1520/1530 movement.

Genuine insert??? Set of hands- saw some at NDTrading for $100 Also might want to consider a service for the 1570- around $200 maybe Fitting the movement into the case may require a little filing on the side opposite the stem. Other than that, I believe it's a pretty simple fit- up. Especially if you've already installed the case tube. Good luck. Sounds like you'll have a very nice franken for a little over $2K.

If you want an eta movement, buy the watch with it in it. Don't go to the trouble to switch an eta for an asian 21j- esp. the day date movement- parts aren't necessarily interchangeable and getiing the parts you need will take too much time and effort- new hands, new date and day wheels, etc.

The asian ETA 2813 is really a misnomer. This movement is referred to as a DG2813 in the ofrei and julesborel catalogs. It's an asian 21j and is closer to the Miyota than an ETA. I think it was Josh who referred to it as an eta copy movement, but it just ain't so! Look for the WO symbol under the balance wheel- that means it comes from PTS Resources in China. I personally like the movement, but it's like any other rep movement (ETA included), it could be dirty and need to be serviced. But once it's been serviced it's fine. And if it's running well, then you may not have to service it for a few years. Ironically, it's also cheaper to replace it than service it- the Chinese Conundrum!

I just had a genuine insert put on my 1680 last year for $65. It's the same part # 315-5513-01, for the 1665, 5513, and 5512. New inserts will be luminescent material and say that on the package- lumi. I kept the old tritium insert and put it on my WM red sub. $95 isn't a bad price if it's genuine- this stuff is hard to come by and with a rep you just can't walk into an AD! I don't know about the flat top T-39- at $150, I'd probably just go w/ a Clark's, but it's all just a matter of how correct you want to be.

If a bracelet has been polished a few times, the crown on the clasp won't be as crisp as it was originally.

I'm with Freddy, I've actually had two eta's serviced and at least a couple of asian movements repaired/serviced. Finding a rep friendly watch repairman is always worthwhile. But on a couple of occasions, I've had to find the rep spare parts (from China) for them- they just don't have the sources for spare parts (esp. Chinese movts). But working on an eta is usually pretty simple, they can readily get those parts.

Yep, I thought those prices were too good to be true!

Supply and demand, there just isn't the demand. But don't hold me to the prices, that's just my gut feeling.

Guess that old price is no longer any good! Damn Rolex parts keep going up every day! Like you say, Ponycar had them for a good price, but I guess he came to his senses.

Here's one in the US for $41: http://cgi.ebay.com/Rolex-Plastic-Crystal-...1QQcmdZViewItem item # 320215903699 these are worth $15-20. Timezone had a bunch for sale by Ponycar up in NJ- good prices, too. Just have to keep your eyes open.

If it's gen Rolex, $300-700, depending on condition. I'm thinking it's 904L steel, being late model stuff.

Oops! Looks like trouble to me- that's a short clasp, like the one found on the GMT Master II and the Explorer II's. And SEL's are all wrong for a 1680- got to be 280/380/ or 580 detachable end pieces.

So would this be an early 60's idiosyncrasy? Pre tritium, so to speak

A fair competent watchmaker could do it in a couple of minutes for say $10. To do it yourself, you need the Rolex caseback tool (duct tape isn't really an option, IMO) and a 1.2mm screw driver. Open the back, take out the crown/stem, remove the hold down tabs and out comes the movement. Clean the crystal and put the watch back together in reverse order. Gioarmani recently posted a tutorial in the Rolex section on modding the crown guards where he shows you how to remove the crown/stem, after that, reomving the tabs is idiot simple and there are other tutorials around here also showing you what to do- just keep reading and searching. Finding a rep friendly watchmaker is certainly worth the time and effort, especially if you don't want to buy the tools. It'll also make this hobby more enjoyable if you keep buying watches.

The caption beside the photo says it's a genuine 16610. It's actually the same photo he uses on his pamplet 'The Rolex Report, Companion Pocket Guide'. The pearl on the pamplet looks better, BTW.

Here's another 5508 from bjsonline with the lume dot at 6- peculiar. Guess I'll read Skeet and Urul tonite, see what they have. http://www.bjsonline.com/watches/gallery/p...rowns)/G003.jpg

The original 5512, late 50's, only had the two lines of dial print below, but the printing was gilt. When the 5513 came out in the early 60's (gilt printng, also) Rolex added the additional two lines of print to the 5512- Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, to denote the chronometer rated movement (1560 or 1570), Somewhere around the middle 60's the dial print changed from gold to white. 5513's had the meters first dials up until around say 1970, after that the feet first were common. The 5513 pictured above came from Paul a year and a half ago. At the time it cost $139 w/ a Swiss eta movt. I recently transplanted a standard 5513 dial (26mm- a 'redial' for $150) into it. I also changed out the pearl for an acrylic one- popped right in, trimmed the cg's and waterproofed it- i.e. basically greased the seals w/ silicone. So I still have less than an MBW in it. If you want to spend the money, an MBW is a good way to go, but I believe these less expensive watches from Andrew, Paul and Silix also can be fun- and great to practice on- if you screw em up, so be it.

It's definitely an aftermarket rep case- good old 18K stainless and bad cg's to boot.I just report these guys- if enough people do it, it might work.

Nice group of watches, Carl. I like your taste in watches.