lanikai

it still needs some work like a micron or 2 more sanding.. but today is the BCS Championship.. so I glued it in for now.. not bad.. the bezel as a whole looks better.. I'll finish it up later this week AC/Lani

Congrats on another beautiful piece by all involve .. And a big congrats to the owner .. a prize.. no doubt Live Strong and Wear it Well AC/Lani

Dunhill

Never mind my watch.. you gotta get a grey gator for yours.. , maybe a darker grey would be Cool R

Just picked up some 120 grit.. that should be fine.. I got a coarser grit to try out.. but the coarser grit causes the insert to just slide .. not much friction ergo less shaved off the bottom per stoke. the width of the insert is not wider.. it does not fit flush with the bezel either.. so it needs to be centered so the edge has just a fraction of a mm gap.. as the genuine appears close up

somebody realized how much money could be had if they got serious..

Valley

Here's a couple for you Anguz on HK hornback

Get it on the grey gator .. got another gator from HK with red stitching.. that may look better with the dial..

Congrats again NR.. Heldig Guy AC/L

Hollywood

The one I took out was rather soft, the outside seems to be ceramic but I don't know about the other half of the insert.. the replacement seems to be very hard, and if the sand paper is too coarse it will not shave off any material.. it just gets shinny, whatever it is ..it's quite hard.

For the sake of discussion and options a heat gun ..imo may not be needed.. actually it would cause more of a mess the adhesive that is on the insert hold pretty well but does not need to be heated and easily comes off once you remove the pearl, which is also easily done. Second I use the "Elmers rubber cement" which is the same "type of adhesive" as the RTV you mentioned and can be applied to isolated area's and dries to a rubbery texture, so if and when I do remove the insert you can just remove the glue by rubbing it with a finger.this is the only insert that I do not snap in place all my other MBK's, BK's .. I use No glue what so ever.. and the sand paper will make a difference, the hard plastic just glides along too rough a surface.. wet sand paper for metal is the best for this one.. it is not like your common insert.. for those of you who have one in hand.. you will know what I mean.. @tech.. the guy probably had the bezel removed before he did his little "pop off" trick Unless you sand down the bottom the inside of the insert, it will be flush with the crystal. As stated, I would not use gorilla glue for the insert... not only is it very permanent and not needed,.. but the chance of it seeping down and freezing the function of the bezel is probable also..

Plankton

1665 GW for Thursday

I think the gen is scheduled for release this year.

only time will tell .. I'd like to re-glue the screws using something like "Gorilla epoxy".. we'll see.. Ok on the pictorial of the Skyland BS and the SABS R.. I'll try and get around to it this week.. AC/Lani

the correct 10 spaced insert is >Here

Ocean harvest

actually this one may be better as far as circumference, the genuine has a fraction of a mm space from the insert to the bezel.. i think I have it down enough now.. but maybe just a hair more below the bezel.. the crystal height is correct now.. just the proper sand paper and this will be a breeze.. I would recommend "rubber contact cement" and not epoxy.. so it'll be an easy off if needed..

I'm going to have to get a different "type" of sand paper.. maybe one for metal.. the insert just slides along the one I got.. it's the only one the local store down the block had.. check with your hardware store and inquire about sand paper for hard plastics.. not wood...the sand paper I was using prior to running out to get a thicker grade would work if I wanted to spend all day on it.. but with the proper paper it should be easier with little time spent....it's almost there.. just a little more.. tomorrow.. edit add:.. I think the metal wet sand paper with high grit and jewelers rouge in the paper will do fine..

This is how I do it.. taking off from the bottom of the insert only Alternate from circular to side ways then north to south.. getting an even pattern of motion check the height on the bezel periodically.

I think we all warned against dealers not listed on this site, this is the result.. Live and learn.. the sites that are listed outside of RWG are all suspect..

it was from a different source.. and I don't know the dynamics of the makers reasoning.. we can second guess it.. Josh did not plan to source these after the fact.. I requested it... so Joshua did not plan to use these.. and obviously the maker didn't or they would be in the Ultimate.. maybe the maker thought it was too much work to mod.. and they didn't think the offset 10 would be an issue..the dealers have to work with whatever maker is doing the project at the time and you can't always blow smoke in the Asian mind set.. but why not just ask Josh instead of playing the conjecture..haha.. The insert is held on the Ultimate with rubber contact cement.. so it is easily removed once the pearl is taken off the insert. This may actually look better after the modding.. you can lower the insert a bit more next to the crystal..although my thumb is kinda raw.. you don't realize it when your in the moment..

the easiest way is to remove the pearl.. you can do it pretty much with you fingernail (thumb) .. I just got 346U grit.. I was using 400 .. to fine.. get it as coarse as you can put the sand paper on a flat board and make circular motions with the insert.. shouldn't be too long before it is the right height.. kep sizing it in the bezel.. the lip of the bezel should be taller than the insert and the crystal should be taller also.. AC/Lani