kingkitesurf

Djeeeeeez Ubi.... I have been researching all posts with Daytona, El Primero, Paul Newman etc etc. This was two evenings of reading.... Info overloaded completely. Now you just sum it all up and I finally think I understand... Is your middle name God or something.... Great informative posts.... I am not worthy.... I am not worthy

I am confused on the movements in Daytonas... There are Lemania manual chronos, Asian 7750, nwe gen Asian 7750 (which are according to Zigs better but still unreliable) and there are Swiss Valjoux 7750. Who has experience with these different movements on the long run (let's say 6 months)... Is the Lemania the most reliable with the only drawback to be manual? I am looking for an daily wearable nice timekeeper... and not a cabinet showoff. Usability comes first... Any advise

I love those DIY Daytona's. After my first mods on MBW I already feel up to a project like this... I think I am overestimating my capabilities here somewhat... I really respect people doing these projects... I would love to do a 6263 but have been reading all posts on the subject... Now I am discouraged... Let alone a Daytona project like this! Ah I will stick around looking at them first...

Actually it looks great... The ETA movement allone will be worth almost that...

Ha ha I have a fatness tick... The fatter the better... I have no Pams yet and am looking into them right now...(any tips on which is most addictive)... but I love thick seadwellers... The higher on the wrist the better The other day on the Bay I bought a gen Citizen Bullhead Coppertone '60 Chrono Automatic... 130$. Happy happy... until it arrived yesterday...it was thick allright but hell it is only 35mm or so. It's an p#ssy watch... Now I really stick to reps.... no gens for me...

He valve on the MBW is fake... If you polish the case to hard it wil have no valve at all....

Ubi you never stop to amaze me... Always pictures at hand I love your white 1665 Question is this: I can order a gen Tropic Superdome #39 but I am afraid that I get the same one as your left (it looks pretty much like the current MBW/WM tropic. I like the flatter one however. But I also understood that there is a real flat one (for the 1680) or is that a different number. How do I make sure that I get the flat one and not the very curved one? What do I ask for?

I am confused. There is Rolex Tropic#39 but how does it look. I think there are two variants... One with high straight walls that raise above the thick bezel and a medium dome and the one that the MBW / WM tropic tends to resemble which is fully domed... What should be on our 1665's originaly... This is how I want my WM1665 to look eventually... becuase I think that is original. http://cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...bayphotohosting I think Ubi got a White Dweller 1665 looking like that Who knows the ins and outs on Tropic #39

I am just getting into Pam... (I am a Rolex guy) and there are so many that I don't know where to aim at... However I see that the often discussed canyonpin gap is not with his watches and that the often discussed swiss made is not so close to the 6 as the most. This is good isn't it. I really don't know on what basis I have to choice a Pam... Are Honpos the better ones....

Wow does this mean that when you pull your inner bezel and Tropic there will be a space for a gasket to go in? Do you have the gasket size for the MBW 1665 by any chance....Cheers Randy

Thanks... So my best choice would be a DW6263 and source a 72 movement?

I saw that and pictures too. But still this movement has 11 extra gears. Have there ever existed Daytonas with subdial configurations that where easier to approach with the 7750 (be it Asian or Swiss). For example the vintage...

How do I know a dealer carries the Daytona with the new 28.800 Asian 7750... Is it all 'non swiss versions with running seconds at 6? What does El Primero mean and do the Vintage 6263 have a reliable movement because of the setup of subdials? Or is actually no Daytona with running secs@6 reliable on the long run? According to The Zigmeister it's not because of the drag from 11 extra gears. Which Daytonas did not have seconds @6. Vintage ones? In other words who knows is a reliable config in a Daytona that is not unrealistic? A lot of questions but I can not see the forrest amongst the trees in this subject.

I assume they have an 'own font' developed. So don't count on finding it. You can always try... you might be lucky. In that case you just put the font in an overlay (layer in Illustrator) to go on top... You skew and rotate it to be exactly on top... Do that for everything and you hide the base layer. Now you have a vectorbased dial that indeed can be printed on any resolution. It really is not difficult but it is time consuming. My biggest fear is the printing on a sticker sounds cheap and not gen like... But he I don't know these Edge units... Printing has come from far! The Cartier font is closest to: Eutheric Expanded Bold Of course they did some moding themeselves on the font but you will be able to get it very close.

OK here is my estimate for this project... I have done some DTP over the past years (but am rusty in that sense). IMHO we could take the following steps. - Take the desktop image from somewere in this thread - Adjust contrast in Photoshop - Skew image to be 100% front facing - Convert to BlackWhite and Trace the image in Illustrator to make it vectorbased like None said - Go over al the details and remove 'nudges' to acquire straight lines (very timeconsuming) - Proportionalize and downsize (SAVE!!!) - Since you are making it tiny it will be very crisp for sure - Print on the magnificent white sticker stuff mentioned in this thread on a minimal 1200dpi resolution - Open your Santos rep and sticker away... OR get it laseretches based on the vector graphic.... It will always be better then the dial in there I guess... I wish I was not rusty and had spare time....

I did the same thing a while back and left it that way. I really like it. Nobody expects the Sub to be on that kind of strap... So I get positive Rolex attention with this... Nobody asks if it's fake... They now ask if it is real...

Yep...mine didn't anymore at one time and then started clicking loud with the spinning...It was broke! So enjoy this smooth sound...Thats the bearing you hear swooshing.... Nice!

:cloud9: Haha.. I wish you love, luck and happiness... Whats TrustyJR's name?

Ah well, it is an accurate rep in that way... I have seen genuine dials looking exactly the same... I like the idea that they thought even of the small details...

I recently purchased a MBW SRSD. A beautiful piece. I took it apart to do some mods and released the dial. Then I discovered it was a SINGER dial and the original pins where cut off. You can still see the pinplaces. Is this a genuine Rolex dial? The dial is supersharp too.

There is a fake IWC with decorated movement... States Genuine Swiss Unitas IWC etc... This grey area is undetectable for non WIS ... Very irritating... http://cgi.ebay.com/GENUINE-SWISS-IWC-FA-J...1QQcmdZViewItem

I mailed the guy to tell him he was an a$$hole... he came back with this mail: I'm not going to sell it for howver much it goes for. I don't intend to. Also, if I state it's a replica, eBay will take it off. I thought it was pretty obvious it's a replica. I made sure I didn't mention 'Rolex' in the auction which is in violation of eBay's counterfeit policy Yeah right.... Keep the dogs away...

I agree that this guy is depending on stupidity of others... People don't know the nikkel looking purple Rhodium wheeled genuine movement and think.... WAUW GOLD inside it must be worth a fortune. They think: Genuine ETA movement this must be the Rolex name for the clock inside.. (they don't know the word movement). I think only people that have to much money will be this reluctant in buying a Rollie but still... They end up with a worthless investment... This is scam... I must admit that the way he walks the thin red line is an art on itself...This has to be a marketing specialist.

He states it is a genuine ETA movement but makes the hole text and booklets etc look like it is real. This is a borderline case. F*ck it I reported it to Ebay... The people bidding this high must assume it is real... I don't want people to get scammed that way.... So if Ebay informs the high bidders and they are aware that its a fake its fine for me when they pay that price... I just think buyers are unaware... It is a damn good rep anyway.

Yep I did it with bleach (the regular 50 cent toilet stuff) 50%, 50% water and a tip of salt. Worked great. I doubt if you need the salt and water. It goes quicker without....Like Ubi did.