ubiquitous

If I have it still... It's yours. My treat.

I might have the one I took off my 183 still...

Good idea, Arch! I decided to keep this breakout rather simple, with just a brief run down on things I have observed with each model's genuine counterpart occuring in the market and how they relate to the reps. For the 1680's... -Red font - The red 1680 is still priced somewhat affordably, so seeing one isn't impossible, though most collectors know that the fakes are typically of this dial variation. There are some key details (specifically on the dial) with this one that identify it as a replica; hence even more reason why I like the white font variation better. -White font - Most plausible, and easier to replicate using a genuine dial (white font dials are easier to find, and less expensive). This one can be made 99% (in my opinion). For the 1665's... -DRSD - Most desirable, though more common through 6 dial variations and longer run of production. Again, slight dial descrepancies exist that make it easy to identify as a replica. -White font - Rarer in terms of actual numbers; shorter production run and a good portion of the white font dials have been swapped out to create DRSD's. This dial variant is not as desired as the DRSD, but is my preferred dial of choice due to it's plausibility. -SRSD - The rarest of the bunch, though not even closely plausible; case is wrong, dial is wrong, and seeing as how there are very, very few in circulation, this is one that is ridiculous to pull off in terms of credibility. -COMEX - Along the same lines of the SRSD, this one is so rare and valuable that it is extremely difficult to be convincing. Aside from the fact that the dial and caseback is again, incorrect, this one just says fake at a glance to those who know. No Dates... 5512 - As a watch that can still be found relatively easily on the market, the 5512 continues to represent a bargain in terms of vintage rolex watches, as it's at a price point that is still relatively affordable. 5513 - The 5513 is a fairly common watch as of current, with an extremely long production run until the late 80's. This watch is also very affordable, and available at a price that signifies a true entry level into the market of vintage Rolex. Hope this helps! Best, R

Asian 7750...

Jackson Sq?

All the best on this special day... Cheers, R

Minute repeater is one of my favorite complications... For sheer complexity of function, and also in achieving the right tone.

Ooops! Self correction on two points... 1) PP 1665's aren't selling that low anymore and... 2) This is a MKII dial being auctioned (I didn't look that closely at the font alignment).

Relume would actually detract from the dial's intrinsic value...

Believe it or not.... That's about the going rate for these now... All original, untouched are fetching insane amounts of money. And collectors are willing to pay. Might not make much sense to most, but to someone who is willing to pay out $20k for a DRSD PP, it's worth the money.

Hmmmm... I may be in for one. All I really want is the case, though...

You can dab some black paint on a rag and wipe it along the caseback engraving. Once filled, rub away the excess with a clean rag...

Fantastic choice! UN is a terrific brand; Rolf Schnyder has done great things with the company and they've produced some truly wonderful pieces! Congrats on your new acquisition... It's a beauty!

Very nice! Looks great! But... 3 thumbs up? If you only have two hands, where's that third thumb coming from?!

Add Ruo to that list too...? Though, I think your's was an actual 1120, right?

Here's the closest I've come...

You're right, kruz... Ziggy did swap his out with a 2892. bazz did as well, if I'm not mistaken...

If it's a vintage (1665), I would just remove the black paint altogether...

Nice! I'm not typically big on the PAM bracelets, but it sure looks right at home on that old Daylight case!

I suppose that the term frankenwatch can be representative of many factors. It's a bit of a grey area; in my opinion, this sort of watch lies somewhere between replica and genuine, as they are not typically mass produced or built of entirely replicated and non genuine parts, and it's not a watch that originates from the official brand of marque, or any affiliates or subsidiaries, though the content of such a watch may be largely or wholly of genuine parts. Some watch enthusiasts consider any modified watch in a state of configure that is not as it was originally to be a frankenstein. This can include everything from hands or dial swapped to a different set that may not typically come with the specific watch in question, PVD treatment to a case that would normally be otherwise, polishing brushed components or vice versa, and so on. Other watch enthusiasts consider a frankenstein to be something that may have been built from parts collected; the completed watch may be a near exact or exact facsimilie to the genuine article as it may have originated from the brand of which the watch was originally released. I myself fall into this category... In cases where a third party watchmaker has replaced a genuine movement with one that is not original to that watch (though the replacement movement may be of the exact same caliber and quality), that too, could be considered a frankenstein. Anytime where a part, case, dial, movement, etc is replaced by an official service center dedicated and authorized for that brand, it is considered an authorized repair, and hence does not take away from the watch's integrity, though replacement parts are typically not as preferable as original parts to collectors, and may or may not impact value. One thing that's for certain- A frankenstein, no matter how much genuine parts content it carries (it could be made up of 100% genuine parts) will never be considered genuine (at least in my book)... But, they sure are fun to build...

Hmmmm.... Some cases may require the tap... Some don't. For example- I have an old MBW case, which accepted the tube as-is (no tapping required). But most cases should be tapped as it cleans out the threads, and also helps ease of installation. Tubes have a tendancy of breaking/snapping when the case has not been properly tapped, which can lead to other unnecessary problems (like extracting the broken tube).

Yessir... Process is the same

Having almost missed a GTG once myself I can attest to the fact that it's important to have an idea of how to identify your crowd... Think I spent a good hour in the lounge of our GTG last Fall... Boy did I feel silly...

Wow... I'm thinking that the seller probably doesn't know their RO's.... If they did (and were trying to be deceptive), I'm sure they would not have included the pics with the ETA movement and incorrect case construction... Maybe an honest mistake of not knowing? Doesn't make it right, but I suspect this might be the case...

Seems to me that you've asked this before... And it's been answered by Avitt (post #6)... http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...amp;hl=polished Genuines are polished...