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I guess I'll take a lack of response to mean this is "normal" on the old 600 crowns.

Cool, when done there must be pics!

Crystals and stuff are one of the reasons I hate messing with newer stuff. Just vintage and plexi for me!

Lo, thanks, Bro. Yeah, hands can be tricky especially without proper hand-pressers.

I am prepping a 1016 case and the new owner sent me a new Rolex crown for fitment to a new tube. No problem but looking at the crown makes me wonder if it is in fact new. It arrived in a sealed plastic "bubble" but the shaft (?) has pretty deep scratches on it. I would have thought Rolex QC would be better than this. What is the collective's opinion?

I wondered who would be the first with that jab! Less than a month and already have a big gouge on the crystal. I'm very hard on watches... No close-ups because y'all will make fun of my lume job.

I finally got around to building me one a couple weeks ago. I sold my Explorer several years ago intending to build another and kept running out of cases before I built me one. This time I built me one first! Guess it's been 5 years or so since I had one...

PM me...

Suh-weet!

M, you can upload pics to the forum relatively painlessly. Also check with whoever you have your internet service through as often your account will have some web space included. I just got in some more "raw" cases and will start machining tomorrow. This may be my last batch as I really would like to retire, but I've said that before...

Auto - Yeah, I had to build myself one so had to call one back home!

Hmmm, too small lug holes, lug profile is too fat, and the bezel is a tad too tall.

I think the plan is going to be that HWA will sand the paint off the ID of the bezel and see how it looks. If it looks like $hit then I'll reduce the ID a bit and repaint next time I have a rifle to do.

A, I think we did discuss, after the fact, whether having a silver "ring" around the crystal might actually look kinda slick. I suppose you could sand the ID of the bezel and see if you like it. If not I could shave off a little to compensate for the paint thickness and repaint. I'm not sure if it's because the paint is really "thick" but the margin between a too loose bezel and a cracked crystal is only a couple thousandths of an inch.

N So, you are gonna try to shame me into a repaint? 🤑 If you nick it up I can add it to the pile for next AR-15 lower I paint. Not that big a deal just have to sweet-talk wife.gov into letting me borrow the oven and it usually "costs" me something...😝

Not my build, just the case.

This is the only picture I have of the complete watch, customer sent me a wrist shot when it was done. Very small and little detail but it looks bitchin' to say the least.

LMAO...

I have had a speck of dirt between a couple teeth on the second wheel cause this in ETA movement...

I did not build this out. From what I was told the builder just sanded the OD of the crystal a little. I use regular Dura Coat on all of my gun builds but after talking with a manager at LCW he was of the opinion that the Dura Bake was a little more scratch resistant.

No. I suppose I could but one of the whole reasons for this was to get a case with more or less correct crown position. I have some 2836 cases and the only difference I see is the crown position.

I did the parts and sent them to customer. Probably will never see detailed pics of finished project.

One of our Brothers bought a 1016 case set from me a couple months ago and wanted to do something different so we decided to give it a go with a matte black finish with Duracoat Hot Coat. It is a bake on firearm finish and if it turns out to be durable might be an option for some folks not wanting to find a DLC shop.

Oh well, guess that's better than somebody calling me an ol' Fossil! ;D

Hmmm, trying to decide whether, or not, to be insulted...