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dieselpower

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Posts posted by dieselpower

  1. @ alligoat

    Thanks for that clarification. You have just answered a question that has been bugging me for some years now. I see exactly what you mean and it is indeed surprising that the 7750 movements chrono reset function can be operated over such a broad variation. As a person who has never taken a watch apart I naively thought that the fine tolerances involved would have meant that the chrono reset button would have completely missed the spot on the movement where the reset lever (or whatever its called :whistling: ) needs to be activated.

    I have to offer you further thanks as I now feel confident that I can use my 'spare' 7750 without any modification as long as I invest in a 7750 asymmetric case :victory:

  2. Thanks for the sound advice to all.

    I have one other question. If I go for a DW 7750 case with V72 caseback (which is basically what I had before selling it!) can I eventually remove the 7750 movement and drop a V72 in the same case? I realise that this means new dial and hands - which I already have in my parts bin.

    Cheers.

  3. As part of my quest to build a 6263 I was wondering if it would be possible to take a 7750 movement out of a non-asymetric pusher daytona rep and have it modified to work in a case that has asymetric pusher configuration. I ask this because I have a spare watch that I hardly ever wear and it has an asian 7750 movement in it so my idea is to remove it from my unwanted watch, have its auto movement adapted to turn it into a manual wind, and drop it into a V72 type case until such time as I can source a good V72.

    Hope this makes sense and thanks to the vintage Daytona experts out there for any advice.

  4. I am starting the exciting task of gathering parts for a 6263 project and am looking into cases. Since I last immersed myself in this there seem to be many more options. Does anybody know how many different asymetric 6263 cases are being produced now and which ones are to be avoided? A while ago it seemed your only choice was DW or very expensive Vietnamese cases. I bought an EE6263 complete watch long after they were no longer produced but I have now sold it so the hunt is on. All info and advice greatly appreciated.

  5. I am starting the exciting task of gathering parts for a 6263 project and am looking into cases. Since I last immersed myself in this there seem to be many more options. Does anybody know how many different assymetric 6263 cases are being produced now and which ones are to be avoided? A while ago it seemed your only choice was DW or very expensive Vietnamese cases. I bought an EE6263 complete watch long after they were no longer produced but I have now sold it so the hunt is on. All info and advice greatly appreciated.

  6. Only just seen this thread. I was the happy owner of Sq-Pl's EE6263 until yesterday. A friend had admired the watch for some time and then he made me an offer I could not refuse, so it has now passed on to another 6263 fan. It is in good hands and he intends to put a V72 inside it to complete the picture.

  7. OK, I accept that if the time was difficult to read then a little polishing is acceptable and I am pleased to see that you haven't gone over the top :thumbsupsmileyanim: . But pleeeeeease do something about that datewheel. Did I read somewhere that someone had made a replacement flat top wheel? I'm not talking about the Ubi overlay, I mean a whole replacement datewheel in one piece but with flat top 3's. I would like a couple myself if they exist!

  8. OK Prsist,

    I am by no means an expert on these things. There are many other members who put my knowledge to shame but for what it's worth here is what I think is a good course of action for you.

    Firstly buy an MBW 1665 (either double red or great white ). Do nothing to it. Wear it. If you like it then start some modifications, the watch is basically sound but if you decide to keep it ie you like the style, then you have the beginnings of a really decent rep. If you dont like it then just sell it here and you've probably only lost a few dollars. By the way - I can virtually guarantee you won't sell it and will fall in love with it!

    Lets assume you like it and want it to get better:

    Use the search engine on this forum and learn lots more about the watch. You need to find out what the differences are between the standard MBW and the gen piece. When you have learned that, only you can decide which inaccuracies you can live with and which ones you can't.

    A brief run down of the main things that are wrong with the MBW:

    The lug holes are too thin.

    The bezel insert and dot are wrong.

    The movement beats at a higher rate than the gen.

    The hands are wrong.

    The datewheel has curved top 3's (the original has flat tops).

    The crown guards are too thick.

    The glass is totally different to a gen T39.

    There are other differences but the above are the main things that most people sort out for starters. I hasten to add that all of the above can be rectified by a decent watchsmith/modder and there are plenty on this forum. So get searching, get learning and get building. I can assure you the work you put in will be well worth it and the knowledge found on these pages is second to none. It will take a while but the watch you end up with will fool all but the most expert of eyes if that is your aim. Personally I'm not bothered about fooling people I just want a piece that I am happy with but either way. Put in a bit of research yourself and you will not regret it.

    Welcome to the wonderful world of RWG and watch modifying :thumbsupsmileyanim:

  9. I love the 1665 and think you ought to just go for it. Am MBW with a slowbeat movement, clarks T39 and a flat top datwheel is a great watch and virtually indestinguishable from the gen. To me the dome of the glass is a reminder of the fact that the watch is also a serious tool for divers and I like that - even though I have never even seen scuba equipment let alone used it :rolleyes:

    post-2563-031428300 1286609790.jpg

  10. Just had a quick look at the link and I have to say as someone who knows absolutely nothing about disassembling a watch one thing struck me immediately. Having seen many photos of assembled watch movements and being totally ignorant of the inner workings I had always assumed they were made up of literally hundreds of parts and this has always put me off learning how to work on movements. Anyway, back to the thing that struck me, the photo of the disassembled movement, broken down into its constituent parts was a revelation to me as there are far fewer parts than I had imagined and thus is very encouraging to the would be amateur, it all looks far less daunting. So thanks for this post as it has allayed some of my unfounded fears.

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