sneed12

Yes. The 1675 has the GMT hand on the bottom. The 16700 and later GMT models change the hand stack.

Only because the buyer threw a huge crybaby hissy fit. Money talks, [censored] walks. I would have tried to handle that differently, but in the end the guy who paid got what he paid for. But they're not, and it gets old seeing people in sales threads tell noobs (incorrectly) that they are. Uhh...TwoTone? He's an admin, and he wrote the sales rules posts... why wouldn't you start there?

What are you talking about? A 3717 runs the standard ETA 7750 6-9-12 configuration. If it's a genenstein with full gen everything then it has a gen IWC 79320 in it. The 79320 doesn't have or use a transfer plate. It does have all of the IWC value-adds: custom balance wheel, mainspring, etc. The do further finishing to the mainplates. They use a weaker mainspring because they claim that their modifications mean that less power is needed to drive the geartrain. All that stuff. From the OP's description, there are no non-gen parts. It's a genenstein with gen everything.

The 2836 is a bit more common in reps ...why? That makes no sense.

Doesn't look like it, honestly. The dial looks centered well in the case, might be tough to move it up. Still, barely noticeable, and nice watch.

Nope. As others have pointed out, this is not true. When you rotate the whole movement, the date stays right side up if you still display the date on the right-hand side. Here's a 2836 in the regular orientation and rotated 180 degrees As you can see, the dates are still right-side-up on the right side of the movement. The only way you need a date at 9 datewheel is if you leave the movement the way it is, and have the actual date display on the left side (like on the Tag Aquaracer). Now, as someone pointed out, the one issue is that the date disc has 31 (an odd number) of dates, so exactly across from the stem position is halfway between two dates. If you just turn the dial around, the dates won't be aligned. You can usually correct for this by modifying the date jumper spring, but with a Rolex rep the even easier solution is to remove and remount the datewheel overlay.

He says he only paid a few months ago Considering the fact that TC is traveling, and there have apparently been two attempts to ship this guy his watch, and two months seems pretty normal.

With an ETA 28xx... yes. The dial feet are 180 degrees apart, so you can literally just remove the hands and dial and turn it around the other way. No, you shouldn't have to. Depends on the case construction and how good of a job you do, but probably.

You're going to get far here with that friendly attitude. Here's some advice: stop expecting others to give you something just because you demand it. There's tons of information here on the forums. To be quite frank, asking if a 6497 will swap with a 2824 is a stupid question. Pretty much your only option when swapping out a 2824 is another 2824.

We're still waiting on the rep of the black one...

Are you nuts? Crap like this is why so many dealers (and modders) crash and burn. From now on when I get PMs asking if I'll work on watches for money, I'm going to point people at this thread. It so perfectly explains why I don't usually bother.

No. Are you? You seem to be contradicting yourself a lot. If you ask TC he can say to you that I've been sent emails in about 4-15 days interval. But you said (three posts above) The complicated part of the deal is not my fault! But you said I asked him to split the watch in two packages to avoid customs risk how can you say the complicated part of the deal is "not your fault" when you specifically asked him to ship to you in a complicated way? "Xenophobia"? WTF are you talking about? You split your time between two different countries. I used to as well. I know for a fact that sometimes it's a pain in the ass to get your mail when you do that. I'd be in Switzerland for a month, and when I came back I'd have a slip saying I had a registered package the day after I left, but the post office only holds for 14 days so it got sent back. When you live between two different countries that adds even more complexity. I've never bought anything from TC. From what people have said he seems to be a stand-up guy. Regardless, the facts are that you 1) asked for something quite complicated 2) it's clear he tried to accomodate you and 3) your freaking out isn't going to make anything get resolved any faster. If TC decided to rip you off emailing him every day isn't going to fix it. If TC just can't get to his email because he's travelling in China emailing him every day isn't going to fix it. If TC is just buried under a huge mountain of emails emailing him every day isn't going to fix it.

Uh... no, a 6497 will not swap with a 2824. Not even a little bit.

...? Why?

Yeah, it does. DW doesn't use the 7753. He uses a 7750 with a custom transfer plate on top.

No, just the rotor itself. Bridge stays on.

In response to "where are you located": Note to self: never sell a watch to this guy

Maybe you should try emailing him every 10 minutes You've said (on another forum) that you 1) have a very complicated deal 2) have received parts, just not the correct ones 3) since you actually paid and had parts shipped and whatnot, it's only been a few months. Yes, it's annoying that your issue has not been resolved yet. Bugging the hell out of TC probably isn't going to solve it any faster. Why don't you try calming down and waiting patiently?

Weird. I must be using a lot more than you guys or something.

Pretty darn good for a rep, miles better than what we used to call "rep lume" but still nothing like the gen.

After seeing a gen bezel insert in person: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/157621-gen-bezel-insert-photos-comparison-to-modded-rep-part/ I knew that the bezel paint mod I had been doing (using Duplicolor Platinum spray paint) wasn't nearly good enough. The color was off and the finish was too rough. I needed a paint with much smaller metallic flakes, and also some warm brown/coppery/gold tones in it. So I dropped by the hobby store. They didn't have a single paint color that I thought worked, but after some thought I picked up these two colors of Tamiya: I mixed about 4:1 of aluminum:gold and just painted over the numbers. I didn't bother removing the paint that was already there, but if I were to do this again I think I'd either remove it or do a base layer of pure white underneath. This paint's excess was much harder to remove than the spray paint: but eventually I got it and I'm pretty happy with how it looks. I'd say the color is pretty spot on. Redid my GMT IIc bezel as well. Comparing the two paint jobs, THIS IS THE OLD PAINT COLOR and this is the new and in natural light

??? GS hypo cement will hold just fine...

? I wash crystals with acetone all the time. It's perfectly safe to use with gold plating as well. As long as you don't get it on anything painted you should be fine.

This! DO NOT TRY TO PRY OFF THE BEZEL the way MD2020 suggests... the case you have is almost certainly not gen-style construction (if it is, MD2020's suggestion is the right way to go). The bezels are nearly impossible to get off of most Sub-C cases without bending. Since your insert is broken already anyway, just go after it with a screwdriver and remove it in chunks. Use a q-tip and some acetone to clean out the bezel ring, then put in the new bezel. I prefer GS hypo cement over gorilla glue but whatever glue is fine.

Define "good one"--are you looking for a good rep or something gen-like?