sneed12

I don't think you are describing the issue accurately. The o-ring doesn't lock anything down, it simply provides a seal for water-resistance purposes.

The hour wheel and canon pinion can be changed from the dial side by removing the dial, hands, and calendar plate. To change the fourth wheel, the autowinding module and train bridge on the backside needs to come off.

This is why I have 2836's in my TC v4s.

That makes no sense, because the seconds @ 6 7750 models (Daytona, IWC Portu, etc) have been selling for years. It's not A or B, it's C: most people don't know the difference between the CHS and ICHS versions, so they don't care, so they don't buy the CHS. Low demand is the reason why models go out of production. PS: I have two, the GMT IIc is working great as well.

I built one, and as far as I know it's the only one that exists.

Mine has been running like a champ for 2+ years now. I just went and looked at the build thread over at repgeek (I posted it here as well but a lot of links are broken) and it was April of 2012, and the watch was several months old already by then.

The ETA 2824 does not have the snap date change; the date changes gradually starting about 10:30 or 11pm. This is normal and correct, it's how the movement functions. If the date change drags past midnight, then the DWO is likely dragging as the above posters suggest. The ETA 2836 has instant date change. It requires a number of additional parts, including that big Y-shaped spring that sits under the date disc. If you want that functionality, use a 2836 instead of a 2824 in your rep if it will fit wit the stem height.

No. But what you have is functionally the same (it's still a 2836-2) and the Rolex bridges look stupid, don't fool anyone, don't change the functioning of your watch, and have a reputation for being unreliable. You're better off with what you got. The gen is like that too. What did you think the bezel would be made from?

M2M is no guarantee of a good outcome either. I just bought a Black Bay that looks perfect, but the movement stops randomly after 3-4 hours.

What a thoughtful and insightful post. Maybe I should start charging for answering peoples' questions on the forums about mods. After all, I did the work first, I should be able to charge what I want for sharing my knowledge. Oh wait. That's right. This is a hobby we all share, and we all are supposed to be in it out of enjoyment. If you want to make money reselling watches, be a dealer. Otherwise, pass along your good fortune to another member and let them enjoy the rep. Is the $50 or $100 you would make on the sale really going to change your life? Does it matter to you? No, it probably doesn't, so don't be a tool.

The Mayer-Maron thread got me thinking about Steve Mulholland, and I happened upon this old thread when I saw it come up in the google results.

Not to one of us!

So if you look at the bezel retaining ring, the lumpy thing with the round half-circles that gives the 24 clicks (all the way on the right in your pic) you see that it has a lip at the top. And if you look inside the bezel itself, you will see a channel/groove around the inside just underneath the bezel insert. That nylon ring sits inside the groove, and is designed to snap over the lip of the retaining ring. If you try to install the bezel without it, it just falls off. Any nylon ring the same size that fits snugly between the two parts should work fine. The rep part should probably work fine as well, and every BP GMT IIc bezel assembly has one. I think I saw a BP GMT IIc bezel assembly for sale the other day in the parts section. Alternatively, I guess you could try an o-ring? But I don't know if it's too squishy to snap in place... Good luck!

Clipping the dial feet is the only way to install a Rolex movement designed for a 3035 or 3135 on an ETA. One of the feet is right above the balance wheel, so even if you drilled the mainplate for new feet it would not work. (I suppose you could drill a new hole for one of the feet, and only clip the other one halfway or something, but that seems like more trouble than it is worth).

It's 42.7% gen.

Why ask after purchasing?

You cannot turn the dial enough to make a difference with the feet installed. Can. Not. You will break the feet off in the movement if you try. Don't know how to make that any clearer.

The stem release button is in a slot right by where the stem goes into the movement. I typically like to have the stem in the out/hacked position when I pull it, because this sends the yoke and castle wheel all the way towards the center of the movement and I feel it's less likely to get screwed up on insertion this way (the castle wheel can't get pushed out from under the yoke because it's all the way at the end of its travel) but others have different preferences. (For 7750s, btw, I always remove the stem from the wind position--different watches are different) The dial feet locks are right by... the dial feet... and you pull them to open. They look like little hooks, and they swing outward. It's obvious when you see it. You can't rotate the dial to align the date, the date orientation is set by the feet.

These are reps, sadly there is no such thing as universal fitment and there is no consistent numbering / labeling of parts (since everything carries fake gen markings). The only way to ever know for sure is to try. Pretty much every modder I know of ends up with giant boxes full of parts that don't fit. I know I have...

The high-beat fighters case has the same sunken datewheel problem as the 3-6-9 Navis of the era. It's the same case. There's no transfer plate, but they put a spacer on top of the movement to raise the dial up.

I've been away for several months; good to know you're still posting the same old craziness. Nothing wrong with either of those, BTW. The date disc and the top of the dial don't sit in the same plane, you do get a tiny parallax effect depending on the viewing angle.

"GMT is totally different" doesn't make any sense, since the 2813 doesn't have GMT function. Date change mechanism is indeed slightly different, but it's due to the fact that the 3804 GMT function piggybacks off of the calendar drive wheel (just like a 2893-2 or a GMT modded 2836 does). Balance [censored] is the same across both movements.

An ETA 2836/46 has physically similar dimensions to the DG2813. The hand sizes are different. Most dials that work with one movement will work with the other in terms of diameter, but the movements have feet located in different places and cannot be swapped directly unless the feet are removed. Datewheels (date discs) will not swap but datewheel overlays typically will.

Have you tried doing a search? This topic has been discussed literally to death.

They are the same movement. A 2813 or 3804 will fit anywhere an ETA 2836/2846 will fit, it's the same ligne and stem height.