mt666tm

Well done. I love that dial with the Ti case

Nautilus for the weekend

Amazing so far... I cant wait to see this all together!

Open it, Open it!!!!!

That micro blasting looks bang-on! How thick is the PC on those bezel rings? It looks good/thin I can't wait to see this finished.

I feel your pain... I did similar to mine on my first day wearing it and I had no idea it even happened. It can't be 100% fixed, but it can be cleaned up to the point where you won't really notice. You just have to take the caseback off, remove all the bezel screws, remove the bezel, and remove the crystal. Then you can carefully press the dented metal back down in and run the bezel against some sandpaper to rebrush. Then hit the side with a dremel and some polishing compound. If done right it'll look good. There is no point getting a new bezel cuz it'll just happen again. I've seen gen's with some real nasty dings and dents before too For the bezel screw, again you can press the metal down, and then hit with the dremel and polishing compound. Now place this screw at one of the 6-oclock positions when reinstalling and try turning it around to see which side-up 'hides' the damage from your view the most as the reflection will hide the damage from your view better one way vs the other. + When you wear AP get in the habit of putting your wrist behind your back when you go around corners, through doorways, in cars, elevators, etc. Prevention will buy you some time before this happens again

Still have on my 16610 with glidelock .. I'm still geeking out over the clasp

I love it! .. a very nice improvement. Makes it very easy to change the size in small increments without taking off the watch and popping out the springbar. It makes the old clasp feel inferior, even though it has stood the test of time these many years. I was going to use this as a test to see if I want to hunt down a gen glide lock, but the quality of the rep clasp seems fine. I wouldn't mind to try the DSSD version glide lock as it's even more intricately designed, but it's probably unnecessary as this does the job nicely

It's the closest I have to a Tudor... Gen 16610, and I just installed a rep glidelock clasp to try it out

I got it around a year ago from Stan (WBK). It has amazing dial detail and gets more compliments than any of mine!

LOL!!

his and hers

Mine holds up very well swimming, so far. I was wearing my NSD out in the field (cliff jumping) and treating it pretty rough. The watch slipped down to my lower wrist and my hand bent back hard and the bracelet made a 'pop' sound on one link... The links are made from rubber with hard plastic centers, and I managed to actually crack one of the hard plastic centers, without damaging the rubber so it was still held together. I got home and took a knife to the link and cut it open to take a look and the mystery screws are actually a hollow tube bar that goes all the way through with press-fit caps that have faux screw heads. I replaced the broken link with one of the proper screw-in extras that I had. So now we can see how the upper links are held together...

You need a Survivor in there

Starting this perfect summer day off with a custom Pam and a little Monte

v3 again

Some more fun; I was wearing the watch today and it took a ding to the bezel at 4-oclock that made me want to cry, so I took the whole top apart to see if I could minimize the damage. I was able to re-brush the bezel and its hardly noticeable now, thank god! I did manage to take one pic that I though was interesting: the gasket between the bezel and main case is very different than the sec@12 models. It does not overlap the bezel screw holes. I know that some guys remove the bezel screw gasket o-rings in order to lower the screws to make it more gen-like, but because the bezel gasket does not overlap the screw holes removing these o-rings can hurt water resistance, unless sealed otherwise... so probably best to leave those o-rings in if you plan on swimming Also, the crystal is the same diameter as the bezel opening so it's possible to press it straight through, like I did the 1st time. So easy on the pressure when pressing it back in. I just used my thumbs to get the perfect rise. PS: sec@12 AP bezel screws are different proportions and not compatible with the V3 Diver (they are longer/thicker). So if you need replacement screws be sure to specify what model they are for.

Woa mama! More pics of this one please, lets see that gen movement/caseback shot

got my swiss transplant V3 diver on for the weekend

^ yup

I got the movement from a watch that a friend just gave me to see if I could fix. I opened it up and sure enough there it was, ETA 2824-2 (I think it's legit). Turns out it had a jammed up keyless works (like my JLC I just fixed) and a bent stem. I wanted to see what it would take to get it in one of my watches after I got it fixed, so I chose the V3 Diver for the experiment. It went pretty smooth. All hands fit nicely. Then only tip I'd have is that the rep datewheel may not line up so if this is the case then just use the datewheel position spring (or whatever it's called) from the asian movement cuz they are slightly different lengths. So now I have a nice movement in my AP, and I have a new stem on the way to stick the A-2824 movement back into his watch to fix it. I think the ETA for me is payment enough... but I'll still get a few beers out of it too I think Different length springs (asian on left, swiss on right): The ETA rotor is also a lot quieter and smoother than the rep: Gratuitous wrist shot:

>@ Importr : No you dont have to remove the key to remove the stem. If you are going to do the ETA swap you may run into a datewheel alignment problem. To fix it you have to use the positioning spring from the asian movement... or whatever the part is called. I just installed Eta into my V3 diver and it solved the problem, which had the exact same A2824 as the NSD. check the pic, asian part on left swiss on the right. very subtle but they are different length.